Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

According to their website, if you're applying METALCOAT to bare metal surfaces (ie. you wire brushed your calipers first), your meant to use " CP-199 Adhesion Promoter".  If the surface is pre-painted, you use the METALCOAT Groundcoat. See here: http://www.duplicolor.com/solutions/faq.html#anchor17

Lucien.

well i didnt, and mine have stuck for 3 weeks, and survive the weekly high preasure hose blast at close range from my local car was (sparkles in midland) hahaha but you cant just buy the blue paint and spray it, ya need the primer also it is the primer that alowes the anodized effect the blue just adds the color, the pain i think was around 35 bucks or somethin from auto1

  • Replies 182
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I emailed Duplicolor asking about the durability of Metalcast for brake applications, and to check if applying a clearcoat for further protection was necessary/recommended. Here's their answer:

Lucien,

Thank you for taking the time to contact us.  There is no problem with using the Metalcast on brake calipers.  The Metalcast is resistant up to 500 degrees F.  We do not recommend applying a clear coat over Metalcast.  Applying a clear coating will alter the overall appearance of the Metalcast paint.  Generally a clear coat will dull and mute the color and metallic cast of the paint film.  The Metalcast coating does not require a clear coat - Metalcast is a durable, high gloss finish on its own. 

Good luck with your project.

Regards,

Ray

L.

I finally got my calipers off, and after going to 5 different shops finally found someone who sold the MetalCast paint:D Will give it a go tommorow:D

nice mate nice, be sure to let me know of how they turn out and snap a few pics to hey, see if i loose my brake caliper painting title belt ahhaah

  • 4 weeks later...
Does anyone know where i can get this MetalCast and ground Coat?..I've been  asking a few Auto1 stores in Sydney and they never heard of it.

cheers,

Maybe try the manufacturer for recommendations?

http://www.honeywell.com.au/contacts/consu...er/default.html

Lucien.

Shmiddy, After suffering a few minor hassles, I finally got my calipers sorted, and I'm very happy with them. Will be doing my wheel nuts next:D

got any pics mate, what color did you go with and how did you find the paint, good find wasnt it, ahahha, mine are still like the day i painted them, another little thing i did was since on my grill i have no badge i painted the bonnet latch with the paint to, looks pritty good, doin my engine cover to, but waitin till i get new intercooler pipes so i dont have to rip em of again, but post up some pics if ya can

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...