Adj Camshaft Pulley & New Cam Belt

[Sydneykid]

conclusion?

On inlet cam timing adjustment? Very little difference, not worth the effort.

Cheers

gary

[Stinky Rooster]

Hey Gary - did you replace either the idler or tensioner when you did the belt? And if not, did you regret it afterwards?

[DaveB]

...

Im gonna do the water pump cause its cheap and easy so i may as well ($69)

...

Where does one get a water pump for $69???

[Sydneykid]

Hey Gary - did you replace either the idler or tensioner when you did the belt? And if not, did you regret it afterwards?

No and no.

Cheers

Gary

[benl1981]

so did the exh cam gear help response much?

Edited March 10, 2008 by benl1981

[Sydneykid]

so did the exh cam gear help response much?

Since mine develops full boost (1 bar) at 2,250 rpm I can't really comment on response in that meaning. But if you mean more power between 2500 rpm and 4500 rpm? Then, yes, the 4 degrees retard on the exhaust camshaft timing made a noticeable difference for towing, which is what I was after.

Cheers

Gary

[benl1981]

1 bar at 2250! thats handy. Is that a gcg highflow?

Is that because it's auto? What gear?

On tuned rb25det gcg highflow:

Mine gets 14psi by about 2700rpm but that's in 5th.

Gets 14psi by about 3100rpm in 4th. 3rd gear is about 3600rpm. 2nd gear 3800rpm.

I would like to get it coming on a bit earlier in 2nd but the load isn't as high to get the turbo spinning up.

It is pretty responsive but i know that the stock turbo used to spin up to 11psi by about 3000rpm in 2nd whereas with the highflow it's about 3500rpm.

[_Ryan_]

Since mine develops full boost (1 bar) at 2,250 rpm I can't really comment on response in that meaning. But if you mean more power between 2500 rpm and 4500 rpm? Then, yes, the 4 degrees retard on the exhaust camshaft timing made a noticeable difference for towing, which is what I was after.

Cheers

Gary

cant belive the response you get compared to AlexCim's old car... that thing was average until 5500rpm. Could be tune?

[benl1981]

SK, did you see my question above?

[Sydneykid]

1 bar at 2250! thats handy. Is that a gcg highflow?

Is that because it's auto? What gear?

On tuned rb25det gcg highflow:

Mine gets 14psi by about 2700rpm but that's in 5th.

Gets 14psi by about 3100rpm in 4th. 3rd gear is about 3600rpm. 2nd gear 3800rpm.

I would like to get it coming on a bit earlier in 2nd but the load isn't as high to get the turbo spinning up.

It is pretty responsive but i know that the stock turbo used to spin up to 11psi by about 3000rpm in 2nd whereas with the highflow it's about 3500rpm.

Off the shelf GCG High flow, but remember it's an RB20DET high flow

It will develop ~1 bar against the torque converter

Tuning is important, lots of ignition advance, but remember I use V Power 100 RON.

The exhaust cam timing also helps.

Split dump is also important, mine has the Performance Metalcraft work of art that was on the race car

Don't forget the intercooler and pipework, mine has a standard R34GTT SMIC and standard pipework.

I also run 44 psi fuel pressure though the standard injectors, which might give some atomisation advantage

For what I use it for I am not interested in how much power it makes over 6,000 rpm, I need it to make lots of torque around 3,000 rpm. I haven't had it on the dyno, but I doubt that it has much over 200 4wkw, which it probably makes at no more than 5,000 rpm.

Cheers

Gary

[psi]

ok, its been ages since i ventured into stagea land..

but I have done the adjustable cam gear! It sat on the list to do for ages, and then the parts sat on the tool box for awhile.. and all went very easy. (I was scared! nothing goes easy!)

anyhow..

I have a GT3040 on my R33 S1, with most of the normal mods.

I ran 4 degrees retard on the ex cam straight up. Car pulls moderatly harder now at the same point where before it was still coming onto boost. Boost comes on a about 250~300ish revs earlier and is a lot stronger in the mid range. Top end.. well, cant tell, it wheel spins 2nd (like always) and 3rd is too fast to be a responseable driver. wink wink.. This is not an accurate testomony to the cam gear, cos i also changed the wastegate pipe a little and played with the ECU afterwards. The outcome was from all 3. but before the last 2 mods, the car was stronger.

hope that helps others who are not sure about the mod. Worked a treat for me! Will be doning 3intheback's stagea soon as it needs a new belt.

Thanks for the work you put into this thread SK.

[KiwiRS4T]

ok, its been ages since i ventured into stagea land..

but I have done the adjustable cam gear! It sat on the list to do for ages, and then the parts sat on the tool box for awhile.. and all went very easy. (I was scared! nothing goes easy!)

anyhow..

I have a GT3040 on my R33 S1, with most of the normal mods.

I ran 4 degrees retard on the ex cam straight up. Car pulls moderatly harder now at the same point where before it was still coming onto boost. Boost comes on a about 250~300ish revs earlier and is a lot stronger in the mid range. Top end.. well, cant tell, it wheel spins 2nd (like always) and 3rd is too fast to be a responseable driver. wink wink.. This is not an accurate testomony to the cam gear, cos i also changed the wastegate pipe a little and played with the ECU afterwards. The outcome was from all 3. but before the last 2 mods, the car was stronger.

hope that helps others who are not sure about the mod. Worked a treat for me! Will be doning 3intheback's stagea soon as it needs a new belt.

Thanks for the work you put into this thread SK.

HKS Cam gear quoted at $365. Does anyone have experience of Chinese aluminium version at less than half the price? It seems to me that it is not a highly stressed component although a failure could be catastrophic.

[skidkid]

Read whole post. How are we doing crank bolt up on an auto. Rad. out but has air con. den. Rattle up with loctite?? Can colqf post a pic of tool that he made or sell and post to me??

[kidafa]

skidkid,

I used a variety of rope and a bike tube to provide friction so that the entire system tightened on itself.

Search my thread about timining belts and theirs a link to a timing belt change to think it was an rb30 and it has the rope setup.

EDIT!:

here you go:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ti...mp;hl=bike+tube

Edited January 19, 2009 by kidafa

[sleeper393]

Off the shelf GCG High flow, but remember it's an RB20DET high flow

It will develop ~1 bar against the torque converter

Tuning is important, lots of ignition advance, but remember I use V Power 100 RON.

The exhaust cam timing also helps.

Split dump is also important, mine has the Performance Metalcraft work of art that was on the race car

Don't forget the intercooler and pipework, mine has a standard R34GTT SMIC and standard pipework.

I also run 44 psi fuel pressure though the standard injectors, which might give some atomisation advantage

For what I use it for I am not interested in how much power it makes over 6,000 rpm, I need it to make lots of torque around 3,000 rpm. I haven't had it on the dyno, but I doubt that it has much over 200 4wkw, which it probably makes at no more than 5,000 rpm.

Cheers

Gary

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[Silver_GT]

Has anyone here done the old jack the front of the car up, attach breaker bar to harmonic balancer, put the breaker bar against the floor then use the weight of the car letting it down off the jack to crack the nut (with car in gear, rear wheels on the ground)

Ive heard of this technique being used before, but never actually done it, sounds like it should work, probably do the timing belt this weekend!

[QWK32]

either that or just put the breaker bar up against the drivers side chassis rail, unplug the CAS and give the engine a quick crank but you shouldn't really struggle with it, in a manual just put it in gear with the handbrake on, auto just put it in park and you should be right with just the breaker bar, maybe a bit of pipe slid over the breaker bar to lengthen the bar if needed.

Edited August 2, 2009 by QWK32

[Silver_GT]

cheers mate, didnt think it'd be too hard, ill give it some wd-40 the night before to be sure to be sure got my timing belt today, loving the jap sticker that comes with it

[datsfreak]

thankyou for posting this! I know its a old thread but its be so helpful.

This was on my r33 s1- you could perhaps post a link to this on the forced induction pages

today I did a new belt ,gates racing - $115 at repco

new pump vl commodore $80 at supercheap

new adj cam gear $60 off these forums- just jap type.

balancer puller $35 supercheap

timing light $80 supercheap(my old one had died -it only cost $20 damn it).

Set at 4 degree retard for the exhaust cam.

I dont know if its the adj cam or because the old belt was stretched but it has a bit more poke now.

for example it now crabs sideways a bit in 1st that it didnt do before the cambelt /adj cam gear .

very good, thanks for the "how to".

Q - to get 15 degrees advance my crank angle sensor is on its max rotation but before it was is the middle..

Is this because the exhaust cam that runs the crank angle sensor, is now rotated? Should I be running 11 degrees now because of this?(15 standard)

[DaveB]

Hi all, I can't believe a search of this thread for "NEO" turns up 0 results! Just trying to find out, if having an adjustable exhaust cam gear on a NEO engine is an advantage? Or even if it would work at all? Because I will be changing heads soon (:S) so the opportunity is there to fit a cam gear (and maybe an upgraded timing belt too though mine is OEM and < 20,000K's old).