Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I couldnt find it posted anywhere else, so I'll ask - whats the rating on the stock amp? Is it powering all 4 speakers or just the back 2? I have hooked up all my speakers using the stock cables without bypassing the amp and it does sound good but a little tinny - could this be because the amp is rated lower than my new deck?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73866-the-stock-amp/
Share on other sites

I couldnt find it posted anywhere else, so I'll ask - whats the rating on the stock amp? Is it powering all 4 speakers or just the back 2? I have hooked up all my speakers using the stock cables without bypassing the amp and it does sound good but a little tinny - could this be because the amp is rated lower than my new deck?

Thanks

The stock amps are all varied. Some are Alpine but most are Clarion. They are around 25 - 30W X4 i believe (although that would vary too) they aren't that flash and your new HU would have a higher output (generally 50WX4) which is around 23wrms, so run new wires from ya HU to ya speakers and it will sound 100% better. You wont get bass at all out of your speakers as the stock amps dont have any filters and a vairable gain at all. SO its again all got to come from your deck.

Hope this helps :headspin:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73866-the-stock-amp/#findComment-1357348
Share on other sites

thanks heaps =) I can just bypass the amp right? dont wanna bother with new wires...

Yeah you can bypass it and use the existing speaker cable that you have wit ya new amp, just make sure that you have segragation so you dont get any noise through your speakers. You can yank the old one out if necessary as its just an anker weight anyway, about all its good for :wassup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73866-the-stock-amp/#findComment-1357647
Share on other sites

Anyone got pictures or locations of the stock amp?

Also not sure if its answered but.. The amp powers the front speakers ? rear speakers? or both?

Wanna install a amp/sub unit myself but slowly as I want to learn about it.

The stock amp is underneath the rear parcell shelf in the boot. Open the boot up and stick ya head in there and thats where it would be if ya got one.

As for speakers it depends again on the vehicle in question really like the amp. It maybe driving just front or rear or both.

Installing a new amp/sub is pretty easy, just time takes time, common sence and some patience really. Give us the heads up on what you want to do and im sure that you will get plent of help for what you want to do :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73866-the-stock-amp/#findComment-1360141
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A little follow up here on the ceramic coating.  We've had storms galore here and I've done a few ks, enough to gross them up  Consensus is that they didn't get as dirty as usual, the coating definitely repelled a little of the dirt and I think they kinda snowball. They get a little dirty and then they get dirty faster which makes sense. Cleaning them regularly would allow them to protect better.  Cleaning was a breeze. I tried first to just hose them off which, unsurprisingly, did nothing. But, making the wheels wet and then just wiping them over with a used but clean microfibre cloth was all that was required. I didn't need any cleaner at all, just water and a cloth. The wheels look amazing again.
    • Gave her a nice wash today and took extra time to clean off the tree sap and tar and crap. We have a usable garage now so she'll stay cleaner longer. Took a few snaps in some nice light afterwards.   
    • OK, solid mount Z1 diff brace is in, pretty straightforward, it picks up 3 diff hat bolts and ties them to 2 support bolts on the subframe. Pretty sure someone else on here said they had reduced axle tramp with this but mine was already pretty good for smooth wheelspin, and still is....will see you this goes over time and whether I end up with a broken rear diff hat
    • Ah yes, but the part in my hand was actually painted and fitted by me! I knew any front lip was likely to be sacrificial but I've had to fix it twice already... by the time I buy a fibreglass fixing kit, sort out sandpaper blocks, buy some fibreglass filler, body bog, spend the time and effort for a 'Greg' result... a new one being $290 seems like it's the better way to go and spray that with bedliner/raptor coat and we're all pretty again.. Would have preferred it last more than a month though. Them's the breaks I suppose.
    • I find it funny that the USA is finding out all this really really weird stuff, and people from the USA are coming here treating it like gospel, yet, all the info on solving those issues is here on these forums for the last 15 odd years... Also, I know how much heat it takes to ignite the hood lining of an R33 skyline. I worked it out myself... It also took a LOT of time, and heat for it to do it... Big single, and I needed to drive the car, so retarded the timing off to "protect it". Yeah, that was a bad move for cruising on a freeway with only 15 degrees of timing on it. That was a lesson I learned around 2009. So that's over 15 odd years ago. Aligning water and oil, that's identical for any turbo engine, it's not Japanese specific. If a shop doesn't know how to make sure the core is rotated the right way, then they shouldn't be touching any turbo engine. That's not a matter of "We haven't had Skylines for that long here"...
×
×
  • Create New...