Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Last time at Eastern creek I was only able to run 0.8 bar due to fuel pump issues and I would estimate, based as dyno figures seen quite soon afterwards, that I had, as a peak power figure, around 220rwkw.

Apart from the R34 GTR's I overtook around the track due to skill, balls and semi slicks, one particular incident comes to mind.

I've come onto the straight about 2 car lengths behind and at equal speed as an R34 GTR that had been tuned by CRD the day before and had, I think it was 253awkw, could have been rwkw.

Now what I want to know is; how come I was able to catch him down the straight? (not saying it was easy)

I have no reason to believe he was holding back at all.

His car mainly stock, pfc, zorst and boost.

Me, GCG highflow turbo, the normal bits.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73903-tickle-me-this/
Share on other sites

Semis, the great equaliser:thumbsup:

The NEO engine is a good equaliser as well, especially if you have the usual bolt ons it would mumbo pretty well. Still good effort and im guessing you would have been entering the straight a 130km/h whilst he was in the ball park of 120km/h???? And you would have been able to brake as deep if not deeper for turn 1

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73903-tickle-me-this/#findComment-1359538
Share on other sites

Um, guys dont forget he's carrying a little less ballast in the GT-t compared to the GTR. I was going to say power was similar, but a re-read showed that i was dyslexic for a bit, thinking the GTR has 235 not 253 :cheers:

Um, aerodynamics? Gearing? You're just cooler? Loads of possibilties :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73903-tickle-me-this/#findComment-1359551
Share on other sites

Nope, everyone knows GTTs are just faster then GTRs in NSW :P

My guess is the power was similar but your faster speed onto the straight paid off...its very hard to make up for speed you lose at the entry to a straight ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73903-tickle-me-this/#findComment-1359834
Share on other sites

Semis, the great equaliser:thumbsup:

The NEO engine is a good equaliser as well, especially if you have the usual bolt ons it would mumbo pretty well. Still good effort and im guessing you would have been entering the straight a 130km/h whilst he was in the ball park of 120km/h???? And you would have been able to brake as deep if not deeper for turn 1

I guess I could have come onto the straight 10kmh faster. I wasn't really referring to braking but yes, I braked later.

I wish I had 4 gears under 1 to 1 ratio instead of 2.

Ben - GTR badge???

Perhaps my car is lighter. What does an R34 GTR weigh. Maybe he left his spare and stuff in the boot but I didn't.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73903-tickle-me-this/#findComment-1360813
Share on other sites

Maybe, but i doubt that woudl be it unless he is shifting like a grandma. The std turbos would be responsive enough to grab a whole lung full of boost as soon as he jumped back on the loud pedal...especially when you factor in the auto slipping into the next gear and as you touch on less range of ratios.

Perhaps the GTR owner was very much aware that he was driving an 70k car at the track and was driving it with the level of respect it deserves...or perhaps if you take the badge off the GTR is just another car whose performance down the straight is hp/weight:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73903-tickle-me-this/#findComment-1361661
Share on other sites

I think, it's all about power to weight issue plus You have aftermarket turbo Abo Bob.

It's not surprising for me for a gtt with aftermarket turbo to overtake gtr.

Plus, as far as I know at high speed, gtst with aftermarket turbo can keep up with gtr.

But I might be wrong, I just want to add my opinion.

Another thing, probably you are crazier when it comes down to cornering and the GTR driver scared of you and back off (HAHAHAHA)

:) j/k

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73903-tickle-me-this/#findComment-1364883
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Ok guess I can rule out the battery, probably even the starter and alternator (maybe) as well. I'm gonna clean those leads and see what happens if it's still shit I might take it to an auto electrician. Unless the immobiliser is that f**king heavy, but it shouldn't be.  If I start the car every day, starts up perfectly never an issue.
    • Anything above ~9.5V is acceptable. The higher the better, but it will almost always drop to at least 10.5V, if not lower, even with a new big battery and everything else being good. 9.76 is not a concern. If it goes below 9, you'd be sure that there's a problem with either the battery or the connections.
    • It's new almost. Under a year old i think and I've tested it twice at supercheap
    • Glue the head from a Pez dispenser on it. Goofy, or Winnie the Pooh, so something.
    • Adjusting the idle screw is usually (emphasis on usually) just covering up deeper issues. Stuff like the cold start valve not closing properly. Throttle shaft seals on the way out. Coolant temp sensors getting out of spec. Coolant temp sensors especially can be a bear to diagnose because they can fail subtly. My dad just spent weeks chasing down his high idle. He cleaned the coolant temp sensor and everything but the resistance curve just drifts over time and if it's been 20+ years they also get super slow to respond as well. Has a massive effect on fuel economy as if it's off the ECU is going to run richer and command high idle for far longer than it should otherwise.
×
×
  • Create New...