Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have used the Autospeed design boost controller (using Norgren valves) on quite a few cars and I have never EVER had a boost spike problem. We run either Datalogit or Motec dash logging on the race cars, so I would have logged it if it had occured. I do mount the 2 valves inside the heat shielding as they like to have a stable temperature. One valve gives good boost control and the other some adjustment of the boost climb rates by limiting the lowest level of boost pressure the wastegate actuator sees. Up to a pre set point (boost pressure), this controls the premature opening of the wastegate.

I have found the Jaycar IEBC to be superior in achieving stable boost, but most of all it enables a totally adjustable rate of boost climb. This is only made possible because the IEBC has the boost solenoid in series with the wastegate actuator. All other EBC's have the solenoid plumbed in parrallel with the wastegate actuator. This means the wastegate actuator always sees some boost pressure and so the solenoid is not in 100% control of the rate of boost climb ie; you get some premature opening of the wastegate.

If you can read instructions and solder components onto a circuit board then the IEBC is the best $80 you will ever spend. There is more info on my experiences (and a few other peoples) with the IEBC and DFA in the Stagea forum.

:cheers:

I've just picked my self up a cheapo ball and spring type bleeder. Its not actually a bleeder, the knob adjusts the tension held on the ball.

 

Should work well as I've had a similiar type before which worked really nice.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...ssPageName=WDVW

hey Cubes, thats the one i am using and i hove found it very good, did you buy it after reading my thread on it here?

how is it going have you used it yet?

hmmm its interesting.. ive got one of those gfb bleed valves ive only had it working for a few days... I set it to 10psi but it was spiking to 12 or so.

I had my car serviced yesterday and they set it to 11psi for me, hasnt spiked once (done 300km so far and im realy trying now to make it spike..)

Its amazing what the professionals can do :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Meanwhile, 20+ years ago, I pulled out the 105mm hole saw and went straight down through the inner guard in front of the airbox to get my stormwater pipe cold air intake in. Right behind the two stock holes for the intercooler pipes. Those have no reinforcement (apart from a couple of robust pieces of steel pipe through them!). I feel that the Australian vehicle standards crews put way too much emphasis on "maintaining the crash performance" of cars and not enough consideration of "any crash is a new and wonderful experiment with a random selection of parameters and you will never be able to tell if an extra 80mm hole through some sheet metal caused a significant difference...but if you close your eyes and squint at the whole structure, engage your engineering brain and have a good think about it, you'd have to expect that it would do jack all."
    • You guys are focussing on the wrong part of this post and have headed off on an irrelevant tangent!  Clearly I'm not going to put my most prized physical possession (well it will be once I'm finished it...) on a piece of shit contraption that might fail and crush me or my car!  At no point was that even implied I was trying to buy a butchered P.O.S that some shonky clown had thrown together with a gasless MIG....  Either way I would love to see the build quality of a rotisserie that has failed.  Actually I'd love to see a photo of one that has failed full stop.  Google fails to deliver.  Never happened?? I'll either make one that won't fail or will buy one that wouldn't fail! End Post.....
    • Yeah, if you can't breathe for more than about 2 minutes, you're cooked.
    • Well, all the power should be getting dissipated across the starter motor. Therefore, ideally, the voltage drop across the earth lead should be convincingly close to zero. Certainly you'd want it to be only a volt or so at max, because otherwise that volt doesn't turn up at the starter to do what is required. A car can probably survive a bad enough earth to crank and start with only 9V or so at the starter motor, maybe even a bit less. But you're seeing only 8V at the battery terminals when cranking, so there can't even be that much available over at the starter, which simply won't do. I would have thought that you couldn't pull enough current (with a healthy starter) to make the battery drop to 8V locally. But I was ignoring the possibility that the starter is in fact crook. If it has shorted windings (or maybe the solenoid is borked and shorting to earth) then I guess it could pull a stack of current and not even look like wanting to turn over. So follow the other boys' reccos too. Because they are just as likely at this point.  
    • Depending where the whole gets drilled, and what country/state you're talking about, quite likely not.   Under ole vehicle mod rules in NSW, VSI06 allowed for drilling of holes in "non structural" areas. So you could drill a hole through the inner guard, and not need engineering. You couldn't drill over seams, and it was advised to add extra reinforcing around the hole, as well as something to protect from sharp edges.   Again, it's all about finding the documentation for where the mod is to be done, AND then being able to explain the situation, with the documentation as to why you don't need engineering, with a positive attitude, to any one of the likes eg, police, vehicle inspector, etc.
×
×
  • Create New...