Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I 'think' the GTR console uses a wierd size gauges. Somehting like 44mm or something. The smallest I know of is 52mm, so you might have problems finding gauges to actually fit (that's if your going to replace them.

Would look nice though.

A bloke on SDU made up a 3 x 52mm holder that sits under the stereo and it looked great. It was a very tight sqeeze to get all three to fit, and he even andled them towards the driver.

Anyone keen to make them up :P :bahaha:

  • 16 years later...

Hi guys, sorry to bump such an old thread, I’ve got the car at the auto elec at the minute for a ton of little jobs one of which is obviously fitting some r32 gtr triple gauges in my r32 gtst, I’m hoping to hear from someone who’s done it or an electrician/ mechanic 

in terms of oil temp have you drilled the sump, used a simp plug or using an oil filter sandwich plate? Any links to anything you can purchase off the shelf etc

the boost gauge have people just tapped into the existing manifold pressure sensor on the fire wall? Added an additional similar manifold pressure sensor ? 

Thankyou very much Guys or girls 

I can't see the point of using the GTR gauges. Is one of them not a torque gauge for the AWD?

Just get a triple gauge plate and fit 3 gauges of your choice - boost, oil pressure and water temp.

Each gauge should come with its own fittings or you just follow the instructions. You may be able to T off the oil pressure warning switch for the pressure.

These are available on Ebay -

Triple Gauge Holder Din Bracket 3 x 52mm or 2 1/16

or you may be able to adapt the GTR holder if you have one.

R32 GTR torque gauge is in the main cluster, displacing the GTSt's boost gauge to the triple cluster in the console.

So, not pointless, but stupid, because why have 2x Nissan boost gauges (the original in the dash and the GTR one in the console) when you can have a better boost gauge? And while doing what everyone else has recommended (aftermarket gauges), why not put in something useful? Like EGT? Who the hell needs a bloody voltmeter?

Hey guys Thankyou for your feedback it’s just the look I want to go for, I understand having 2 boost gauges is abit of waste and a volt meter gauge is old school but as I said that’s the look I’m going for? So again does anyone have any experience or answers to my questions 2 posts up? 

The only obvious answer to "it's just for looks" is to not bother to hook them up to anything except the lighting circuit.

If you have to hook the oil pressure gauge up....then a sandwich plate is the only option that makes sense.

And obviously the boost gauge is driven the boost sensor. The only question is....will hooking two gauges up to the same sensor cause them both to read wrong? Try it and let us know? But wait! How will you know?

You could always put in a redundant second boost sensor to go with your redundant second gauge.

Do

May I suggest looking in to VDO gauges. I took this route a few years ago with my old 32 GTS-t as I always wanted a stock OEM look. (I hate the space ship bright light cheap gauges)

VDO are a quality brand and easy to find. Sensors come with the gauge, you'll just need to pick up a single din slot 52mm gauge holder (Anywhere online/ebay) and wire you're selected gauges in accordinly. 

From memory the stock gtr 3 gauge cluster harness runs with the dash loom. Massive pain in the ass to disect and install in to 32 GTS-t considering volt and another boost gauge would be pretty useless. 

 NgsaDJxC.thumb.jpeg.422a2b7d3e09884815f02de797fab39e.jpeg

  • Like 3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh yeah forgot to also mention need to also unplug the IACV as well. Thanks for the reminder @MBS206 Unplugging the TPS takes it out of closed loop so you're able to screw down the IACV without the ECU trying to add/subtract timing to maintain the idle (not sure PowerFC can even do this, but Nistune and the OEM definitely does)
    • For sale is my 1999 Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T, tuned to 234 kW / 313 hp. I've had the car for a few years as my daily driver. The car is original (as far as Skylines go), with only a few minor upgrades to enhance performance and driving experience, as typical for such a car of its age. Overall, it is in great condition with no body rust, thanks to its earlier import date. It features a top-notch security system (not literally, but it's great!) with remote start and still functional 4-wheel steering via HICAS. It comes with several performance and handling upgrades, including:     Hypergear 450HP Turbocharger running 17 PSI boost, installed mid-2021 by Jaustech     550cc injectors     Nistune ECU     Front-Mount Return-Flow Intercooler     X-Force Stainless Steel Exhaust     Upgraded engine mounts     Bottom end bearings replaced     BC Coilovers     Lenso DR1 rims     Bridgestone Potenza Adrenalin RE003 TL 245/40R18 97W tires, fitted early 2023 The interior is mostly stock, with a few additions:     Viper Satellite Tracking System with remote start     Bluetooth Double-Din Touchscreen Head Unit     Steering wheel cover Cons:     A few paint imperfections here and there     Driver’s seat shows more wear than the others. It's not torn at all, but I've added a seat cover to protect its condition. I also have a CarVX Vehicle History report available for serious buyers, so you don’t need to purchase it yourself. Price: $26,000 ONO.
    • I've had two suzukis in the past have an extremely hard time turning over and not starting after sitting for a few weeks. Ended up the alternator would seize up causing the starter to force. Same issue both times.  Maybe they're sourcing their alternators from the same place...
    • Ah right. Maybe my rb just loves chewing through batteries lol.
    • On the R34 can't you just unplug the IACV? This is the way I've always done it on the R33. Disconnect IACV, get it idling around 650rpm, and then do a power reset on the ECU to get it to relearn idle (factory ECU).   The big reason no one has touched on as to why you'd want to get the base idle right, is that it means the computer needs to make smaller adjustments to get a good idle at 700-750rpm.   Also, cleaning the IACV won't normally make the car suddenly idle lower or higher. The main issue with the IACV gumming up is that the valve sticks. This means the inputs the ECU gives, aren't translating to changes in air flow. This can cause idle choppy ness as the ECU is now needing to give a lot of input to get movement, but then it moves too far, and then has to do the same in reverse, and it can mean the ECU can't catch stalls quickly either.
×
×
  • Create New...