Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

its defently going to be better than your stock one, and i think if you dont intend on pushing it to hard then it would be fine for up to 250RWKW.

but on the other hand id also be worried about having to change it if it wont cut the mustard on a warm day up a good hill ect, i hate having things pushed to there limits if you know what i mean.

personly thou id have to see one in the flesh as they just seem to be to chaep, oh year and the other thing is that piping/clamps/hoses and all the rest not to mention you time do add up if it dosent come with all the bits and peices as a dearer kit would.

All intercoolers are not the same and don't kid yourself that they are made in the same factory.

just take a TRUST core and then compare it to a Cheap Hybrid and then compare it with one of the best, an ARC job.

They are no the same.

yes they do a good job at lower power figures, up to 500hp or so.

I've got a cheap chinese one on my golf which makes 210FWKW and then we have a TRUST on on the GTR.They are both 600x300 and thats were the similarity end.

chill man, The above few posts were about hybrid "copies", so I didnt think I had to state that I was not comparing trust to a hybrid, asif anyone would be that stupid to think there was a magical cooler factory where they all came from.

Im not sure about now, but when the "copies" started to flood the market they did come from the same factory, alot of "fakes" come about this way, The factory is outsourced by the phatcat company and they simply fill the quota, then keep producing the product, and realease it unbranded.

hey fellas,

good variety of opinions here! i went and bought one of the copies this afternoon, as the general idea sounds anything would be better then the stock and this copy will be just as good as an original if im not going for all out power demands.

after i finally get to a stage where ive satisfied with all the mods, i may change it for a more popular brand name and note the power differences for you all going from the copy to decent without changing anything else. but that will likely be in the not so near future (but who knows? maybe ill win the lotto :()

cheers! shaun.

My mate has recently finished modifiying his R34 GTT with majority brand name parts (garrett GT3540, Apexi power FC, Gready ProFec, Splitfire coils ect. ect) and tells me his cheap 600x300x76 actually 'wastes' around 3 psi of boost that turbo makes when number of tests were done.. Not sure how accurate this info is but may be food for thought..

My mate has recently finished modifiying his R34 GTT with majority brand name parts (garrett GT3540, Apexi power FC, Gready ProFec, Splitfire coils ect. ect) and tells me his cheap 600x300x76 actually 'wastes' around 3 psi of boost that turbo makes when number of tests were done.. Not sure how accurate this info is but may be food for thought..

intercoolers do drop boost pressure slightly, alot of people find their boost drops off with huge frontmounts... just wind it back up :(

and pimpin32, 8kgs difference aint that much, im sure the increased cooling effect would be more beneficial, you can always do some weight saving modifications...

my hybrid 600*300*76mm cooler is about 12kg do you think this is a disadvantage compared to coolers such as the stock gtr cooler that wieghs about 4kg or less?

Think it would affect performance? Theres a bit of wieght difference

Strangely I have never actually weighed a GTR cooler, but they weigh heaps more than 4kgs, more like 24 kgs.

Weight is important, intercoolers are heat sinks after all, and the more weight they have the more heat they can absorb and spread over the greater mass. Obviously the heavier they are, the longer time they take to cool down (all other things being equal).:P

  • 2 weeks later...

Sup Shaun Campbell,

When are you looking to get that rb25 turbo bro? I'm thinking about buying one of these hybrid FMIC and then get the AVC-R for my r33. Know of any good places around our way to look around? By the way, lets get in touch sometime so we can talk cars. Cheers

Your old buddy, Koro

so whats the deal then, should i buy a China/HonG Kong copy FMIC or just buy a Hybrid kit for $100 more???

I have a R32 gts-t with aftermarket turbo which is capable of running over 1.5bar but i need a FMIC to up the boost from 1bar which im currently running.

If anyone has any info that will help me out or just general opinion then hit me up?

[email protected]

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jap premium will be 100 RON. You should use 98.
    • The exhaust gases are at their highest temperature as they leave the exhaust port and enter the manifold. They cool as they flow through the manifold because they transfer heat to the manifold and the manifold loses heat to the surrounding environment. Thus, inevitably, the exhaust gases are cooler as they enter the turbo compared to when they entered the exhaust manifold. So, yes, the exhaust manifold can easily get as hot as the turbine housing. Having said that, you will generally see the highest temperatures where the exhaust gases have to slow down or they are concentrated into one area - which is usually the collector on the manifold and in the turbine housing, because the gases slam into the metal at those places, increasing the convective heat transfer coefficient and transferring even more heat to the metal than they might just flowing past elsewhere. Exhaust manifold heat shields are a good idea - certainly for the stock manifold they are there from the factory. People seldom have anything like that on a tubular manifold because they are hard to achieve. Some might wrap a tube manifold with fibreglass tape - but this has a reputation of leading to cracked welds. The best case is generally to put ceramic coating onto the manifold to prevent it getting as hot (internal coating) and radiating/convecting heat into the bay (external coating). All the real heat from a turbo comes from the exhaust side. The gases entering are at ~800-900°C and the steel/iron gets nearly that hot. The compressor side is only going to heat the charge air up to <<200°C (typically not much more than 100°C). So that's nothing, by comparison. The compressor is not a significant source of engine bay heat.
    • Late to the party, specifically joined this forum as I just bought one of these and this thread has been a gold mine of info. If the OP is still around, mind if I ask what gas you been putting in yours? Mine has a Japanese sticker in the cap saying premium but it seems to get way worse mileage on premium (95) than 91. I always thought it was meant to be the other way round🤷 I do think Nissans claimed "6l/100km" is a bit fantastical 😂
    • Does exhaust manifold get hot as turno exhuast side? I have a turbo cover to managr heat in the engine bay but  nothing is covering the exhaust manifold before turbo   i know as turbo does compress air, the temp does go up however does that mean exhaust manifold would be as hot?
    • It's excellent but I'm still breaking it in so I'm not 100% sure where it'll end up. I would say it's about 15% heavier than stock and the smoothness of the slip zone is quite progressive but you need to be a little patient compared to stock or it'll bite hard and stall. Stock I got away with absolutely horrid clutch control. Like I said before I couldn't even tell where the clutch would grab when it was stock so releasing way too quickly without enough revs it would just slip and the revs would drop lower than ideal but that would be the end of it. Currently there's a bit of a nasty clutch judder if I don't apply enough revs + find the exact wrong point of the slip point in the clutch pedal but it feels like it's slowly resolving as I drive it more. I would not recommend the competition clutch unless you really need the extra clamp force. I think this clutch combined with the Nismo operating cylinder is going to be exactly what I want. Enough bite that you need to remember the release point to avoid stalling or rough shifts, but progressive enough that it's not hard to drive by any means and not heavy at all. I tried a "super single" clutch on my friend's 997.2 Turbo 6MT and that was absolutely horrid. It runs an electrohydraulic power steering pump for the clutch power boost so there's zero feedback in the clutch pedal and there was a horrific clutch shudder well after break-in due to the lack of marcel springs or hub springs in the friction disk. It felt like the slip zone was the thickness of a single toe twitch as well so it was almost impossible to avoid stalling it unless you gave it a ton of revs and just dumped the clutch instead of trying to be smooth with it. I was terrified of pulling out in front of traffic. I have also tried some kind of "super single" on an EK9 and that makes this twin plate Coppermix look like a stock clutch. Releasing the clutch pedal even slightly too quickly feels like you're getting rear-ended. The pedal is extremely heavy as well and there's no vacuum assist like the GTR.
×
×
  • Create New...