Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

mmmgtir..the other day me and the boys from Brotec Engineering where playing with my Gen 2 Brotec Xforce Xtreme II ecu / BOV combo and decided to see what we could push out project datto to. Your right, at first we had some huge engine temps but then we combined a water injection system with 32.1psi of boost and where shocked at the performance. The turbos still glow red under the high power output but according to the thermocouple we have welded to the snail they are running alot cooler.

We are running custom injectors however, they are 1250cc and we have to run a twin bosch pump feeling a custom surge tank which then gets feed onot a brotec special mechanical pump which sits off the alternator. (same as the gibon r32)

It was amazing, I think we are good for 9's with this new setup!!!

sounds nice mate. I'd love to check it out. I think there are gains to be had with even a touch more boost, possibly can drop the exhaust temp down a little further.

I have to admit I was maxing out my pump/injector combo until I switched of the pump fuel, needs a high koctane to function properly. big gains to be made in fuel choice.

I have heard some good reports on the brotec II and i may have to try one out once they are released for sale. perhaps I'll stop fooling with my FJ and put it on the GTR. one thing though, you may need to ream the orrifice of your fuel tank to install a bigger line to keep up with your 1250cc injectors.

I'm actually surprised more people don't utilise the gains available when pushing a turbo past it effeciencey range and then through to the 'zone'. I guess it comes down to lack of knowledge and not many engines built to handle that much thrusting.

edit: oops I've mispelt some words. please excuse, i type fast when i'm thinking direct to the pc.

Honestly dude the brotec is awesome.. I cant believe how easily its tuned and how nice it looks. yeah I think my fuel lines are way to small, we are going to punch a hole in the bottom of the main tank and put in a squiqqle drive style pump, they are noisy as hell but should push enough. Need to use something like a garden hose to get the fuel up front too!

It really makes sense to push the turbo more, I figure it must be simply more air means more cooling.. Exactly the same principal as your front mount intercooler. we have actually attached a twin thermo to the back of the intercooler too!! I think its crazy that more tuners dont push the turbo to the zone rating, thats where they reach their best performance.

]']wow people are hikacing my thread :rofl:

okay dumps and injectors and going to go in :P

wise choice.

sorry for the hi-jack.

Sly is right too, it's not really practical on a street car, as all that power is really unwanted for tootling down to the shops for a six-pack.

I have heard how you tootle down to the shops mr fuse

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I started with the above in my head too, and I might be reading / thinking about what they want wrong, which is why I complicated it a bit further. Purpose I'm seeing is for the corner indicator to be on with headlights, and then if the indicator turns on it can still flash. The relay part above I can see working as required, except in the case of headlight is on, and indicator is on. The change over relay you've wired in would get signal from the indicator, and as it flashes would give power to the globe from the indicator, but as it flashes off, power comes from the headlight, which would cause the indicator to be constantly on when headlight is on, even while indicator change over is flashing. That is unless we don't care if it flashes or not if the headlight is on? I guess that's an OP clarification.
    • HI, Ive got an r34 gtt sedan A/T. The instrument cluster went out and I replaced it with another A/T everything visually looks the same and all the gauges work now with the exception of the speedometer and odometer. The speedo will stay pinned at zero until I'm going about 55kmh and then it'll say Im going about 5kmh. my odometer seems to be tracking at about a 1/10 of what it should. If I go 1km it'll say I've only gone 0.01. Appreciate any and all help. Ive tried searching through the forums reddit and a local fb group. The only info I think I've found is that some cars didnt come equipped with TCS (mind is) and the clusters may be different between those? I've also installed a brand new VSS and no joy obviously. TIA. 
    • what speedo healer did you use?  
    • Certainly. It is probably broken under the wire style clamp. At least that one is easier to get at than the front one.   Sounds like it isn't a major leak, I'd start with backing off the the water feed and return banjos into the turbos half a turn then tightening properly. Hardlines can still crack over time, either in the tube (particularly when turbos are changed if the banjo is siezed in the the tube) or at the brazed joins between the lines and the banjo fittings. A coolant system pressure test will reveal all. BTW you'd be able to get a sump without exchange, it will just cost more as they will have to source another stock one for the next customer. If you want to address the sump a much better option is something like this https://www.hioctanedirect.com/hi-octane-racing-sump-extension-nissan-rb26 that you weld in locally (and add the oil return fittings at the same time)
    • Pretty sure you are thinking of the throwout bearing there (which you should change when you change your clutch), when they are worn they will get quieter if you put your foot on the clutch. An input shaft bearing is turning/noisy at all times.
×
×
  • Create New...