Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok got a HICAS lock bar, whats involved with fitting it i've had a look, and it looks like i need to plug up the fluid running to original bar, once old is taken out and new one is fitted.

if this is what i have to do, how have people previously done this? OR let me know how u fitted yours.

cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74323-fitting-hicas-lock-bar-help-needed/
Share on other sites

hmm from memory, the power steering lines running to the HICAS unit need to be either blocked up with lugs/nuts or a U shapped pipe connecting them back into each either can be done with hose or made up metal piping, just make sure it doesn't leak. Better off blocking it up at the start of the lines under the engine bay. ah well that was probally a crap description. i'll take some photos of how mine was done if i get time.

Also you'll probally get a alot better description by PMing skylinegeoff for instructions as he sells them normally with a typed up sheet of instructions.

I justed looked on my cefiro and it has two very large locking nuts(obviously with washers in them) on the end of the lines. the rest up past the diff has been disconnected and taken off and the line is zip tied to a mount under the car.

I just got this car from japan, but from looking at it there is a spot close to the engine were the whole line can be disconnected

you would just have to find a bolt that fits to plug up the line

will take photos soon

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Clutch done also about a year ago got a DCS HD Single Plate. Basically done everything but touch the engine 🤣 But will definitely get a fuel pump and ECU, then start saving 🫡
    • Fuel pump and clutch and ecu that’ll get you to about 230 or so kw, after that the sky’s the limit and the budget blows out faster then you can blink 
    • Should add all mods on the car are done in my ownership. The car was a 1 owner in Japan and I'm first owner in Aus.
    • Thanks GTSBoy. Did BC's so not Japanese coilovers. I've already done all the other points you mentioned besides the seat, I like the factory seats and want to keep original look. Done all the fluids and comp tests etc and all consistent and clean. Well and truly used to the power and car as I've been driving it for a few years as it is now. Contemplating next steps mainly. Preference to remain twins too. @Murray_Calavera Paying for labour.
    • Hmm. I don't think it is possible. As soon as you start, you will be on the hook for all the money. $5-10k is enough to make it fragile. Here's the list of things you need to do to make it nice, and driveable. If Japanese coilovers, get them measured and tested, then decide if you're keeping them or replacing them. If low rate springs, then consider big ARBs. If high rate springs, then probably leave stock ARBs. Either way, ad decent end links. Replace and/or upgrade all suspension bushes. That's LCAs front and rear, UCAs & traction arms at rear, caster rods at front. I highly recommend GKTech FUCAs, although the step to spherical joints is a step too far for some people. Rebuild brakes front and rear. This means making sure the calipers are healthy, discs are up to thickness, hoses are replaced with braided. Add good pads and fluid. Investigate wheel bearings all the way around, tie rod ends all the way around, upright bearings at the front, balljoints everywhere. Any of these that are still original are likely to be a bit wibbly nowadays. Bride or Recaro driver's seat, with fairly deep sides. Nice tyres. Street performance wheel alignment. Or track focused, if you're not going to use it on the road. Fluids everywhere if not known to be fresh. Now, learn to drive the car as hard as it will go, before trying to add any power. Save up big $$. $5k is the minimum cost for putting a decent ECU into it. A big single, with manifold, new exhaust, injectors, fuel system upgrade, ignition upgrade, triggering upgrade, etc, is >>$10k. None of that (except the ECU) is a good idea on an old RB. You really should put head studs in it, investigate engine health (compression and leak down, real oil pressure at revs, coolant condition, etc) before even considering adding power. There's nothing sadder than the "I added boost then it shat the bed" thread.
×
×
  • Create New...