Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R32 GTR... HELP ME!!!!!!!!!!!

Power stearing GONE. Driving along, heard some funny missing noise, sounded like i was in a WRX for a second, then it was all good again. Pull up, realise there is no power stearing. Remove the shattered belt remains.

Keep driving for a bit without power steering, suddenly, no more spool! AT ALL!!!!!

Nothing, turbos are NOT spooling! Engine sounds fine, cooler pipes seem in tact.

Just got car off defect, now this...

You guys go right ahead and write back, I'm going to go cry somewhere... :Bang:

F#@KING PIECE OF S#&T NISSAN F#@KING SKY_F#@kING_LINE... I hate it! I hate it!!!! :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74341-power-steering-gone-then-no-spool/
Share on other sites

I don't know but I don't believe in coincidence. Could the ecu detect the power steering loss

and go into a limp home mode?

Thanx sooo much for writing back.

I was hoping the same thing. Two things that back our theory up

#no sh#t loads of smoke

#drives really well with no strange noises... just plain doesn't get over zero on boost gauge and feels like this is the case.

doesn't reset after turning car off tho... maybe i have to fix power steer first...

how would it achieve such a limit? just like a rev limit, but using the air passing thru the AFM to say stop right there buster

:: EDIT

i didnt quite see you mention GTR.. so my response to your no spooling of maybe your exhaust wheel went down your pipe would seem to be quite wrong since you have TWO turbos and its unlikely they both went..

pardon me.. ill be on my way..

shaun.

OK OK, now this has elevated status to critical.

Replaced the power steering pumps belt today and power steering is back better than ever....

NO TURBO'S!!! NONE. Car is very drivable, sounds a little weird when it would normally be boosting, but besides that, drives pretty normal.

Am going over to reset ECU now... been checking for signs of leak from cooler piping... nothin'

Am a nervous kid. :)

Reset the ECU. No change.

It's like the turbos aren't even there. They make no attempt to spool. There is no noise at all from them. There is possibly more noise going on under the tappet cover than normal. Thats the only difference in noise.

HELP HELP!

Some of you guys must have some idea...

i had a similar problem, no spool after a back fire. found out the new cooler i had fitted on the left hand side the cooler pipe had blown of but the pipe was still inside the hose so was hard to locate boost leak. it worked out that there was no bead welded onto cooler pipe to stop hose clamp slipping of. my car lost all boost and also sounded like a wrx just before the hose came off completly. before this problem was detected i had the induction piping to turbo of to check that turbo was still spinning when engine was idleing, which it was because i thought i had blown exhaust wheel off!! hope this helps you.

This may seem silly but are you actually driving the car?

My car won't boost without load, so free revving it on the spot won't go over 0 psi.... this is my first turbo car and when it happened to me I freaked out too heh.

Good luck, I hope this it :)

This may seem silly but are you actually driving the car?

Haha, yes. I noticed it while driving.

Although boost doesn't go much over 0psi with no load, you can normally here the turbos, but at the moment NOTHING.

I was thinking maybe actuators were stuck open, so tryed to drive it up and down the street a bit on varying loads to maybe unstick them (foolish plan I know). It would be strange they would both go at once.

i had a similar problem, no spool after a back fire. found out the new cooler i had fitted on the left hand side the cooler pipe had blown of but the pipe was still inside the hose so was hard to locate boost leak. it worked out that there was no bead welded onto cooler pipe to stop hose clamp slipping of. my car lost all boost and also sounded like a wrx just before the hose came off completly. before this problem was detected i had the induction piping to turbo of to check that turbo was still spinning when engine was idleing, which it was because i thought i had blown exhaust wheel off!! hope this helps you.

I reckon its gotta be that too hey. Just be screwed if I can find it.

I was certain it was the top pipe off the inlet of the turbos. cause I had just taken it off to attend to the power steering pump. So when it went, I was like, I know EXACTLY what that is... then I pulled over, and its fine....

I guess I should just go check ALL of the pipe work... it would be weird if one blew off besides the one I was messing with....

yeah, thats the thing. I was actually taking it for a test drive with the belt off, to see if it was ok to drive with out power steering. so when it went, the belt was already out of the car, i wasn't going nuts... everything was normal.

I have just checked the pipes again... its hopeless.... nothing...

thanx heaps for the ideas guys... i'm just useless.... *crys*

Don't know how hard it is on the Gtr but you may have to take the dump pipe/s off to see if you still have exhaust wheels on the end of your turbos.

You would think you would hear a boost leak if some of the plumbing got taken out by the belt but if everything looks right then I'd be thinking turbos.

yeah, i was thinking it might be somewhere there as i can't see anything wrong with the actual intercooler piping...

but i couldn't get to the bov pipework... its on the passenger side down low isn't it? i can't even work out where the bov is...

how do i get to it to check it?? looks like i'll have to take off the front bar...

On a related note, what should one replace the hoses to the BOVs, actuators, etc with? Silicon hose, braided lines (bit OTT?), or just go with new stock jobbies? I'm tempted by the silicon hose as there seems to be a lot of it around at the moment.

LW.

Would have to be a pretty big leak for it to make 0psi on full load.. and you would certainly hear it.

I have had intercooler pipe leaks on GTR's before, even small ones made a large sound but I only lost a small amount of boost. The turbo's just worked harder. :(

You would also be very unlucky for both turbo's to fail at the same time.. very!

You must have a whole intercooler pipe off.. I would take the front bar off and have a really good look.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
    • Some of them keep working fine. 9 out of 10 of them end up causing an absolute misery bleeding the system and get thrown on the workshop floor in a tantrum and never thought about again because they were never really needed and just added crap to the car that we could have done without. Same-same with HICAS, A-LSD, and various other stupidities that over eager 10x engineers thought we had to have.
×
×
  • Create New...