Jump to content
SAU Community

an interesting find...

Eug

By Eug,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Eug Grand Master

Eug

Posted
Posted

Ok here's the story...

Car is completely stock, no power mods, only suspension bits.

January - Installed a pod filter, only a crappy cardboard (template) heatshield.

- Ran on the dyno, made 108.4rwkw (at night).

Got off my arse, and decided to make a proper heatshield and decided to throw in the stock airbox snorkel to see if it made a difference. See here

On the street the car seems to accelerate a little more smoothly.

I was keen to see what difference the snorkel had done.

May - Proper heatshield and snorkel installed.

- Ran on the same dyno, made 108.0rwkw (at midday).

Here are the two dyno-charts.

Ok the 2nd run made 0.4 less kw - and I took into account that it was due to

ambient temperature. Either way 0.4 is not very much, and indicates that the dyno is reading correctly.

But what's more important are the AFR's, just by installing a snorkel + heatshield, I have smoothed out the air and fuel mixtures.

This may be something to consider, to those who have pod filters and those who think they may need a SAFC to fix their ratio's.

Image1.jpg

Image2.jpg

Hope this helps. :rofl:

Eugene

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74355-an-interesting-find/
Share on other sites
Eug Grand Master

Eug

Posted
  • Author
Posted

paully_tee: would it be possibleto post up pictures of this custom intake?

I am just saying that alot of people tend to take off the snorkel when installing a pod filter,

and proven that it is in fact a reasonable idea to throw it back in if you dont want a custom intake made up.

Also taking out the passenger headlight for a run down the strip may prove beneficial.

Eugene

Greg Veteran

Greg

Posted
Posted
  gatty said:
check out mine:

http://www.filejunkies.net/sighost/images/airbox1.jpg

http://www.filejunkies.net/sighost/images/airbox2.jpg

i am planning to get a 100mm hole saw and make a hole direcly below where the pod sits and run a bit of 100mm duct from just behind frontbar :D

I have done this but haven;t run a pipe (ie there is just a hole for the pod to suck through). didn't notice much difference.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Slow when hot could also be because its getting more dynamic compression, OR things are getting a bit tighter once it is all expanded. If it were an earthing issue, typically I'd expect you to have it have issues all the time. Unless it's really a combination of both things. Where the higher compression, and things being a bit tighter, is giving that bit of extra load and you do need a slight clean up on the cables/connections.
    • dbm7
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
    • Duncan
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By Duncan · Posted

      I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • soviet_merlin
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
    • S1_C34
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By S1_C34 · Posted

      I ordered a GSP Front R/H Axle from here - https://justjap.com/products/gsp-premium-front-driveshaft-r-h-nissan-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-stagea-4wd#description It lasted around a year before one of the boots blew out. I'm lowered, but I have GKTech roll center adjusters. One year seems a little premature. I think I'm going to spend the extra money on an OEM cv axle this time. This website - https://tfaspeed.com/collections/nissan-stagea-wgnc34-x-four-parts/products/nissan-stagea-awc34-260rs-rb26-right-front-axle-drive-assembly Makes it sound like the readily available OEM CV axle will only fit 11.1999 Stagea and up (mine is a 2.1997 S1). The JustJap listing didn't mention any years or anything for the GSP axle. Amayama shows '11.1999' and up as well for that part number. As well as 'plastic boot type'. See attached picture. So I guess my question is, does that axle (39100-23U60) really only fit S2 Stagea? It's the front driver side. If it does, I'd love to buy that instead of rolling the dice on another GSP. I've found that OEM one cheaper here: https://www.partsfornissans.com/oem-parts/nismo-jdm-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-r32-gts4-right-front-axle-3910023u60 and here https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts/nismo-shaft-ft-drive-3910023u60 Just a little confused because the JapSpeed listing for the GSP front driver axle doesn't mention any specific years or anything and it fit my S1 Stagea fine. So will 39100-23U60 fit my S1 Stagea even though technically it says '11.1999' and up? What would have changed? Thanks.  
×
×
  • Create New...