Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

Just trying to work something out, After compliance you get the report for your car, mine is weighing in at 1560KG's. it sux cause you go into the next bracket and have to pay $352.00 rego a year.

I was just wondering what everyone elses weight is? seems a little heavy for the lightest of the GTR's,

any help would be appreciated

mark :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74398-tare-wieght-of-your-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites

$353 a year rego, youar a lucky lucky man here in ACT my GTR rego is $710 a year so be happy!!!!

Anyway back on point my GTR was 1460kg before i started any weight reduction measures, if i where you i would strip things out of my car take it to a weigh station get a print out and take it to rego.

in that comparrison then yeah, but back to the topic

1460 eh? what the heck, did they sit a truck driver in my car while it was on there!

so if I take tools and jack and stuff out of theboot, drive it down there with almost no fuel then that shuld be ok?

the next bracket down is only like 265 which is why I was annoyed.

cheers

mark

I've got gram lights so I would have thought that would have made a difference

but the guy said bring it down and he'll do the weigh bridge report again, $15. its 2 mins around the corner from my house. so I'm going on saturday.

I'm gonna take all the floor mats, everything from the boot out and take it down again. there is no way it can be that heavy, should only be 1510 like your cars, hopefully its 1504 or less that way I can be in the next bracket down for reg

I'll drive it down there with the light on, servo is 200m down the rd, I don't have much of a stereo in mine by the way

cheers guys, mark

99 R32 gtr tare weight is 1430 kgs ( all fluids but no petrol in it )

93 mod =1480kg

93 v-spec +94 v-spec II =1500 kg

R33 gtr =1530 kg

R33 v-spec =1540 kg

R34 gtr =1540 kg

R34 v-spec =1560 kg

R34 m-spec=1580 kg

It depends on who did the compliance as to how much weight is on the rego paper .

I have a R34 gtr m-spec and its under 1500 kg ( i made sure of that at the time of rego )

I had a 33gtr that was under 1500 kg as well .

If you want you can get a weighbridge ticket and go back to the rta i'm sure you can get it under 1500 even if you have a v-spec II .

I have been through this with my R33. You have to get an adjustment of vehicle records from a mechanic that does BLUE slips. THis costs $22. I was able to show the mechanic the specification sheet from a workshop manual. My R33 sedan was previoulsly put in at 1570kgs tare weight!

The heviest sedan in the spec sheet was 1410kg so he put it down as that. If he hadn't have accepted the spec sheet you have to go to an authorised RTA weighbridge. This costs about $23-$27.

The mechanic I went to was in the hills area. Hills motorsport gave me his name. I think Milan or something, he was a good guy

Then you take the adjustment of vehicle records to the RTA and they cahange it. I did this just before I regod the car. Saved me about 100 per year

R32 gtr's can and they all should be under 1500 kgs on the rego .

R33's and r34's are all heavier than 1500 but can be registered under 1500 kgs , i can't say in this forum how but if anyone wants to know give me a p.m.

Like benl 1981 said it saves you about $100 every year !!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks Murray, appreciate the advice, a few things to think about now 😀 
    • After my million questions, I'll throw in my 2c now.  If I was in your shoes, I would buy the best/most modern ECU available. A Nexus S3 would fit the bill. It is highly likely that this ECU will last the life of the car, regardless of whatever ECU manufacturers develop in the future. Modern ECU's are amazing and will still be amazing in 10 or 20 years time. If you can get e85 relatively close to where you live, I would buy a flex sensor and size the injectors to run e85. I'd go a Walbro 525 fuel pump with relay wiring kit.  Turbo wise, I'd hit up HyperGear and get a pair of the biggest bolt on turbos.  Now for the safety side of things, I'd have the tuner setup the tune to be very soft/safe on 98. Then on the flex tune, a lot of the timing can be put back in on the top end (I'd run full boost on both tunes, but manipulate the power with the timing). This also has the benefit of hopefully delaying the, "bored now, need more boost" that comes with owning a modified turbo car. If you spend most of your time on the 98 tune, the few times your on e85 will hopefully stay special/fun.  The bad news. As your paying for labour and tuning, I don't think this will happen with $10,000. This might be the motivation to learn to do it yourself though, that way instead you'll have the built car and change from the $10,000
    • Cheers Duncan, on club reg and very much a weekender, don't drive it all that hard and don't intend to go overboard at any point in the future too. In my 40's and quite mature driver, just want that little bit more from it 😉 Sounds like, after ensuring everything is in good condition, ECU, Injectors, Fuel Pump and a set of turbos is likely to be my path forward. 
    • 15 years is not too long to hold onto something like that, right?
    • Hey man,   By any chance you still have sunroof for sale ?   Thanks
×
×
  • Create New...