R32 FMIC in Type M bar

[Cubes]

Dluded,

Explain what you mean by didn't fit as the R32's front support bar doesn't have a back lip, only the front lip. There is nothing but the a/c fan and the radiator stopping you running a fmic as thick as you like.

Unless your trying to mount it differently? Draw a pic or something of where the fmic fouls as I've had no trouble fitting the 100mm thick bar and plate in there.

BUT thats being said my IC is mounted down 10mm with a welded alloy lug on the top of the ic.

[Gts-t]

It cant be done neatly with a stock bar, again i would have to disagree

In progress

I can also guarantee the pipework length from the intercooler outlet to the throttle body is about half a meter or so less than my previous "up and over" setup. I dont think the pipework being in the engine bay is that bad (apart from some clearances) i was just mentioning it, i know we are splitting hairs...

Note: this is the trust R-SPL intercooler kit, it costs more than the V-SPL kit that has "up and over" style pipework. The intercooler outlet is on the passenger side.

Still in progress

[predator]

lol -- yeah, that does look good. Mine is non-mspec anyhow, so not sure whether there are differences there in the bar but it wasn't easy.

I think my biggest problem may be using a cheap ass cooler .. but it shouldn't matter for the near future. Worth trying, if it doesn't work satisfactorarily as I head up in the power, I'll go for a brand kit when I have a bit more money... oh, and maybe a larger front bar!

i wouldn't like to be a pedestrian getting hit by that, it could cut someone's leg right off

I wouldn't want to be any pedestrian hit by me at any speed! if you are hitting them with enough speed to smash through the plastic, and into that, they are well and truly...well, not good anyhow. Lets face it, if you hit a pedestrian at more than 30km/hr they are dead (facing facts here)

You'll find probably the majority have cut the support bar to fit their intercooler (even though its probably not necessary)

[Gts-t]

Pred,

get yourself a bar like mine from the wreckers, cut it out carefully like mine perhaps. Then refit the bar, mark the support, remove bar and cut away with air hacksaw, failing that a hacksaw i guess...

If your feeling creative make up some fiberglass and form it back to the cooler. Its relitively simple, and with a color like black you might be able to get away with some dodgy shit. If you that way inclined.... jks....

Good luck

[Baz]

Hrmmm... interesting. I thought most of the intercooler piping kits that you can buy on the market involved the 180 degree turn on the outlet to come back behind the intercooler rather than under. Its a shame the plenum chamber on the RB motors isnt built like the SR motors which would make things a lot easier. The way I see it on my front bar the diagonal middle support bar will need to be completely cut out and removed along with the fog lights. The way i plan on doing it is by using the existing piping to the factory intercooler to join with the new piping to the inlet of the intercooler, followed by a 180 degree turn to come back behind the intercooler and back up to the factory inlet piping.

Also how much cheaper is it to customise the piping yourself rather than buying a piping kit?

[B0oStEr]

I've been fitting my 600x300x76mm Hybrid cooler into my type m over the last couple of weeks.

I made my own piping from 60mm aluminium tube with seven 90degree bends.

It cost me $170 for the tube plus $120 to have it tig welded together.

The cooler fitted up behind the bar support nicely but I needed to cut some metal out to get air to the top half of the cooler. I also cut in a pair of N1 ducts

The piping didn't hit the fan but it was a bit tight around it so instead of cutting the fan blades I machined a spacer to go between the fan pulley and the fan giving the piping 12mm more clearance.

When I was cutting the bar plastic I found it hard to get clearance around the piping near the inlets and outlet reducers as my early type m bar angles back more than the later bars.

For me this was the most time consuming part of the job. I'm lucky to have access to all kinds of tools. I used a jigsaw and air hacksaw to cut out big bits, a small woodplane to dress the straight edges and a die grinder with metal burr to tidy up the corners.

It took me about 4 hours but I didn't want to cut too much off so I trimmed it several times until I got a perfect fit.

Now I need to get the bar painted and polish the pipes.

I'll see if I can post some pics when I'm done.

[Oosh]

Here's some pics of mine while i was putting it in, nothing revolutionary, it's a Horse Power In a Box item, came with Alloy piping all ready to roll, it does mount the cooler quite far forward and the piping on the LHS esp. sticks out a bit.

As for the hole, I bought a couple dollar hole cutter from Bunnings, and since it was made for wood destroyed it in the process but it did the job. Then i used a hammer to widen it, beating a lip over it at the same time, finsihed it with a bit of black spray paint on the exposed metal to stop corrosion. I then painted the top pipe black, and the ned pipes Blue to match the front bar, all up it looks pretty neat.

Edit: Oh and the front bar support was already chopped out, personally i wouldn't have bothered.

And i know it's wonky, these are the "in progress" shots, now it's my front bar that's a bit off, the cooler is plenty straight.

[Cubes]

Oosh,

Did you find you lost a little bit of response/increased spool time a little?

[Oosh]

Oosh,

Did you find you lost a little bit of response/increased spool time a little?

Nothing overt, and certainly nothing compared to what I gained in spades running my EBC @ 12 psi, which i wouldn't have been confortable doing without the FMIC.

[JSL]

Cubes you have motivated me.. I like your FMIC setup with a Type M bar.. not sure about the way you done your piping..

I was going to get a R32 GTR front bar replica thing from Just Jap but just got myself a Type M bar just 5 mins ago.. hahah

At least I am not going to get the front clearance problems with the GTR bar..

[predator]

Type M is where its at.. I've worked out why mine has had to poke through at the bottom there, its because the non type-m slopes back a lot more at the bottom, where as the "type m" is more flat at the front.

I think I'll have to give it another try in 6 months or something with a proper mspec bar.

[Oosh]

Yeah my Sedan has a different (non M) front bar, but it has M brakes, which i think is the more important feature!

[Cubes]

Ooosh,

Your soft.. I was running 12psi on the stock IC for ages.

Once the FMIC was bolted on it was boosted straight to 15psi, I got it home and bumped it up to 16psi where it stayed for 100,000km's.. Not saying yours wouldn't go pop, Luck of the draw I think.

[Cubes]

JSL,

If I were to do it again I would have the FMIC ever so slightly wider and thinner to allow more air to get in through the opening to the radiator.

End tank design I think is fairly critical with a setup that loops back, you can't really have a bottom in/out end tank design. Maybe flip the FMIC upside down??

[HCR32]

Guys

Quick question, have any of you guys noticed the temp gauge on the car, if it has gone up or gone down, after you have fitted the FMIC..

i was going to put a plate cover over the top of the cooler to direct the air to the radiator after the cooler so the air doesnt escape...

[Cubes]

The temp guage reads center from roughly 75degree's right up to 102degree's.

If its going over half then its over 102degree's and dangerously close to boiling temp.

IF the FMIC has caused the car to start running hotter on the stock guage then it means you previously had a problem with either the clutch fan being stuffed or the radiator is blocked. I tend to lean towards the clutch fan being buggered.

With my FMIC fitted I find bugger all air gets through the radiator as cruising on 60km/h or even 100km/h I can hear the clutch fan cycle in and out.

EL Ford Falcon twin thermo fans draw a hell of a lot of air (more than a clutch fan would under 2000rpm) so thats my next step as in peak hour traffic I find the temps creep up over 90degree's. Once I get moving the temps drop really quick so its a simple fact of the clutch fan not spinning quick enough on idle.

They are $190 bran spankin new and are the perfect size for the R32's radiator.

[JSL]

mmmm forgot totally about that.. radiator.. damn it.. I was going to remove the clutch fan as one of the first mods anyways..

Might look into this EL ford Falcon fan...

Thanks for the advise.. I am sure I am going to be PMing you alot hahahaha

I am going to pick up my Type M bar in the morning.. YAY!!

[Oosh]

The temp guage reads center from roughly 75degree's right up to 102degree's.

 

If its going over half then its over 102degree's and dangerously close to boiling temp.

 

IF the FMIC has caused the car to start running hotter on the stock guage then it means you previously had a problem with either the clutch fan being stuffed or the radiator is blocked. I tend to lean towards the clutch fan being buggered.

 

With my FMIC fitted I find bugger all air gets through the radiator as cruising on 60km/h or even 100km/h I can hear the clutch fan cycle in and out.

 

EL Ford Falcon twin thermo fans draw a hell of a lot of air (more than a clutch fan would under 2000rpm) so thats my next step as in peak hour traffic I find the temps creep up over 90degree's. Once I get moving the temps drop really quick so its a simple fact of the clutch fan not spinning quick enough on idle.

They are $190 bran spankin new and are the perfect size for the R32's radiator.

Mine's NEVER gone higher than about 90 odd degrees on a hot day, admittedly it wasn't uber- stop/start but it wasn't all cruising either, except when i left some hose to do with the heater disconnected so when i switched it on i lost half my water and got things a little toasty but nothing drastic before i sorted it out.

[RaseR]

Sorry to dig up an old thread - but can any one actually confirm a set of EL thermo fans & shroud actually fits an R32.....I'm very interested in this conversion, but the power steering pump lines sit awfully close to the radiator on the far passenger side so I'm dubious as to whether the EL shroud will even fit inbetween, any ideas?

thx!

[Cubes]

The EL thermo's are super thin.

Pop down to a wrecker and check one out.