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Anyone out there with an import who wants thier pride and joy serviced with pride, care and love?

And you dont have the time to do it yourself?

We can do it for you because we love cars!, and if you dont live too far from the Adelaide CBD we'll come to you and help you!

$5 is donated to SAU every service.

- Engine Oil + Filter - Primary

- Gearbox Oil - Secondary

- Diff Oil - Secondary

- Brake Pads - Primary

- Sparkies - Primary

- Coolant - Secondary

Oil Change - should be changed every 6000kms if you have a turbo

- Recommend Shell Helix Ultra

Gearbox Oil - should be changed yearly

- Recommend RedLine ShockProof LightWeight

Diff Oil - should be changed at least once

- Recommend RedLine ShockProof HeavyWeight

Spark Plugs - should be changed every 8000kms

- Recommend NGK Coopers 7 Series 0.8mm

Coolant flush - should be changed once a year if your picky

- Recommend Honda, Subaru coolant that you can buy from dealers

but I'd rather use Red Line Water Wetter mixed with distilled water.

You can provide all the stuff, or I can source everything for you no problem!

Primary = $40

Secondary = $30

Call Out = $20

Your car can also be cleanned = $20

- interior and exterior

- windows

- wheel cleaning

- polishing of headlights so that thier clear again!

Feedback:

popeye132: Had my SR20DET fully serviced today by Will, excellent job and will comeback again. Recomended for sure especially at under half the price of any workshops for the same if not better service.

Ill let you know when my 300+rwkw R33 is here so you can give it a service before compliance!

Email, PM and Call If Interested To Arrange Booking.

Will

Will

[email protected]

0421009474 Optus Prepaid Network

0412847709 Telstra Network

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Heya Dude,

Good news, I heard its been hard to get cars on boats.

With the 100k service, I cannot do timing belts, water pump belts well, any belt.

BUT I can do mostly everything else.

ditto. but i wish i could.

  • 3 weeks later...

hey man,

rocco said my car should be ready in 2 wks if everything goes as planned then ill let you change all the fluid :uh-huh: . When i drove it there and boosted the thing, i think i broke something as it since dropped revs and shut down when i take foot off :werd:

the fuel pump was also louder and still buzzed when i was acc and crusing, any ideas? but after a few minutes the revs barely holds on at around 600rpm and didnt shut down anymore but still made buzzing noise when acc and crusing.

Heya popeye, i researched a bit, that light that turns on, the power fc uses that to warn you that something has reached a limit.

Could be knock, boost, fuel, something.

From the FC FAQ:

Why does my engine light flash when I drive with the PowerFC?

The PowerFC uses the factory engine warning light to alert the user of "upper limit" or ceiling values in the engine systems. Things such as airflow meter max value, injector max duty, excessive knock will cause the engine warning to flash. Usually the engine flash is in a sequence of 3 flashes each 0.5 seconds apart. Should you experience this you should review the hand controller max values (press down when in monitor mode and displaying values to see the max values for each) and consult your tuner immediately. Excessively high knock can cause engine damage. Running on max injector duty can also be fatal so speak to your tuner. Aggressive tunes that are tuned around winter temps/airflow and being run hard in summer may cause these symptoms if the tune is very aggressive and on border line of maxing out the stock components. This is only hearsay but I have seen this from at least one or two members.

The car was probably tuned on high octane jap fuel, must get it retuned mate, with our fuel. Even with our octance booster and our fuel, it will still not be able to match the jap ron i believe.

Wish you all the best mate, expect delays, so u dont get dissapointed.

Will

Oh also,

try this if it still occurs

My idle is really crappy and it hunts around a lot when on idle. What can I do?

The first step when installing the PowerFC is to let it idle for upto 30 minutes on your car so it adjusts to your engine setup. This includes turning on the Aircon, Demister and Heater throughout the idle stages so the ECU has time to learn the engine setup and idle levels. This can be done by doing an "initialize" on the PowerFC. This will reset all settings back to default (including your tune) and set the PowerFC back to learn mode (for idle only). You should not do this if you have a tune as there is no way to save the tune before it is erased. If you have datalogit or the FC Pro cable/software you can copy the maps. Preform the initialize and then reupload the maps. A few people have seen really screwey idle from the Hand Controller itself being plugged in. The workaround is to unplug the Hand Controller and it idle's normally. This is a very strange problem and certinaly not common. Initial suggestions would lead to an electrical problem somewhere?

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