Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hay guys i was talking to a guy at autobarn hehe =)

iam getting one of those oddessy dry cell battarys 12V 1000 amp =)

and i was telling what kind of sound system i was putting in my car and he goes you should give your distributor a good service

bushes etc?

what did he mean by this? does it cost a lot to do this? and how does it help me lol =)

Thanks =)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7461-distrubitor-battary-and-sound-system/
Share on other sites

I have no idea why they would say that. Distributor is related to ignition so unless your car is not performing properly then I wouldn't bother.

Only time you ever think about the distributor for audio purposes is interference where you simply hook up a $2 condensor (which is usually there to begin with anyway!)

Just out of curiosity, what are you putitng in (don't need detailed description unless you wanna provide it).

It is actually possible to kill an alternator with a big stereo. If you crank your stereo and the headlights dim, your alternator is copping a workout. I would consider a battery upgrade (which you no longer need :mad: ) and a capacitor.

I've seen a few of them dead from extremely high current draws. I don't know the physics of it all but I believe it's due to the stereo sucking huge power from the battery, then the battery loading up the alternator to replace that draw. When it happens a couple of times a second for minutes/hours at a time repeatedly, it's easy to see how this is not "a good thing"...

A capacitor (cap) is basically a very fast-acting battery, ie it stores charge, but can discharge this power much quicker than a conventional battery. The kind you'd use for a stereo installation is a much larger version of the caps you'll see on pretty much any electrical circuit.

  • 2 weeks later...

I've seen 'em those capacitors - always seem like a bit of overkill unless you are building some $10k monster system.

I dunno - i think the new battery is overkill and you might have got talked into it when not really required. It seems like a fairly standard system. Its not like you are running 3 x subbies, 3 amps, and 8 speakers or something.

The alpine amp shouldn't draw too much power, and even the sub shouldn't stretch it.

hehe thanks for the info

reason why i need a dry sell guys is becoz the battary has been moved from the engine bay to the boot and i cant have any hydrogen gases being released from the battary into the boot not legal i think so i had to 2 ways

1. i some out make a duck that lets all that shit out under the car

or i buy a dry cell

so my answer was dry sell hehe =)

they costing me about 300 to 350

guys the best battery i have encountered are the optima yellow top batteries they shit all over the oddysey for stereo use and no cap required the dump huge amounts of current but more impatrant is theyr AH rate is more than double the nearest oddesey equivalent

eg optima yellowtop CCA 950A

AH 95

oddysey 1200 CCA 1200A

AH 40

this basicaly means that the optima has more than double the storage capacity of the oddyssey.

an amp which produces 1000w rms draws approx 170A from a 12V source

the oddesey will last about 15 minuites at this rate with the car off

your altenator in a skyline produces 95A and thats above 2000RPM

at idle its only about 30A - 40A

you do the math as to which is the better battery

NOTE : the standard skyline battery is rated at 45AH

most proper battery retailers should have them.

in nsw i get them from battery world

just lookup your yellow pages

cost was about $400 but well worth it

iv got 2 amps hooked imto my setup about 1300w worth

and my dash lights never dim even with all headlights and tail lights on.

well i was speaking to this guy today about battary

and i told him i would be running 1000 ampliefer etc

and running the battry into the car i said i was planning on getting a dry cell

he goes you will kill it if you run your system and the car togeather

i said iam not ganna be running the system on while the car is off

he goes dosnt matter hehee.

and i was speaking to him in regards to standard hydrogen battarys and he said dont matter if they in boot no harm ?

so what you guys think

he said i should put a small battary in the engine bay for the car

and another battary in the boot for the sound system

etc

what you guys think?

or reconmend i should do

for starters...sounds like you talk to autobarn people too much...the only time they should speak is when you ask for a price...thats it...they try to put accross the image they know lots but they dont...(learnt from experience, and no, im not happy with them)

if this guy wasnt from there, well, he still doesnt know much and shouldnt be giving advice.

my 2 cents..

i recommend an oddessy. it did me well - 2 10's, 2amps, 2 sets of splits (all average power ratings) and it showed no sign of power loss ie. lights dimming while running. just make sure you use good wires/cables and connect everything well...solder the wires, dont just twist them.

basically in stereo terms, you get what you pay for, just shop around to make sure you arnt getting ripped!

optima's are very good, but maybe over kill for your system (your own choice) as long as your alternator is in healthy condition!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey @Butters, did you end up getting this clutch in ? I have just ordered to a uniclutch track to go in my getrag 6 speed that’s in my BNR 32     
    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
×
×
  • Create New...