Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

With my R32 I get about 300 km per fuel tank - 55L. Rarely I would get over 300 km.

It seams like it doesn't really matter much if I gun it quite a bit or not, it's always within 20kms. I'm still using stock computer and stock injectors. A/F ratio is on the ritcher side, low 11s.

Even the boost I run doesn't play major role when it comes to the fuel consumption. Is it the O2 sensor or something else?

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I have consistently got 500km out of each tank with my R33 since I got it. Love it, it has saved me on fuel compared to the '99 Ghia V8. Although I have had to baby it a bit in the wet, the simex tyres on it are pure shit, like driving with bald tyres.

Thanks for all the help guys.

I have taken out the new O2 sensor and replaced it with the old one as my microtech ltx-12 does not use the O2 sensor.

I am selling the new O2 sensor on www.firesport.com, so if anyone with a stock ecu or one that needs the O2 sensor want to try imporve fuel economy the sensor.

Am getting more tunning done soon to try increase my fuel economy.

Ps. after the last time my car went on the dyno managed to squeze 330km out of a tank.

Get rid of the Microtech, they are essentially an electronic carbie, and save having to re-jet the carbs:)

I sue to get shocking fuel economy with my old LT8 runnning on a lightly modded RB20. It took a lot of work to get the eeconomy acceptable... and it took an Autronic dealer to get it right...all the Microtech tuners seemed to be wide open throttle jockeys who expected you to live with poor throttle response, poor economy albeit with good WOT power.

Now with my current car i am getting 400-450kms of city driving with a PFC and 235rwkws. (Thats not boosting it very much and 50 of my 120 daily kms are on the highway.

Ditch the Microtech or go to a tuner who is willing to work on the light load maps

I'm having the same issues. standard ecu with new o2 sensor and still getting barely over 320kms.

I have a SAFCII. SHould I ask my mechanic to lean it out?

What is a safe AFR to run at for a stockish (SAFCII, FMIC, 11.5PSI Boost, 3" exhaust) R33? Please note that i'm from tas and we only have 95RON premium down here.

Oh yeah. The car seems to run really rich too. always popin/backfire noise when I change gear. I'm not getting any soot though.

Mine has always got good fuel consumption, even when it had the stock ecu and running in to the 10's at full throttle.

However I did notice at WOT around 3000-3500rpm it would hover around the low 13's. I was told it was normal as the Nissans run a little leaner in the mid to help fuel consumption.

On the dyno afr's were spot on 14.7:1 and would hang in there until 2psi of boost was being made. That was with the stock ecu and the rb20det.

It has never really backfired or popped. Only if I were to ever so slightly have my foot on the throttle.

A few things I would be looking at.

Fuel injectors, AFR's, O2, ECU's Water Temp sensor (one for the dash, one for the ecu), cam timing, compression.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/at...achmentid=27315

this is my current tune. I've been told the AFRs look good.

From what i understand though an R33 should be able to produce a fair bit more power than what I'm running so should it be leaner?

The Lambda sensor sends the results to the Dyno Computer. With this reading they can work out the AFR.

Here is a picture of a Dyno read out with the AFR on them.

BTW I hate my fuel economy, only @250km per tank, really sucks!! Wish I could get @350 per tank.......mmmmmm 350 per tank :wassup:

Get rid of the Microtech, they are essentially an electronic carbie, and save having to re-jet the carbs:)

I sue to get shocking fuel economy with my old LT8 runnning on a lightly modded RB20. It took a lot of work to get the eeconomy acceptable... and it took an Autronic dealer to get it right...all the Microtech tuners seemed to be wide open throttle jockeys who expected you to live with poor throttle response, poor economy albeit with good WOT power.

Now with my current car i am getting 400-450kms of city driving with a PFC and 235rwkws. (Thats not boosting it very much and 50 of my 120 daily kms are on the highway.

Ditch the Microtech or go to a tuner who is willing to work on the light load maps

Finally somebody who know something about engine managment. Best piece of advice I could offer you firefox is to ditch the electronic carby and revert back to you standard ECU and have it chipped.

Sorry.. I was meaning that ~170kw could very well be 190kw on a Dynamic Dyno.

EDIT: I find it interestering how Racepace ran slightly richer afr's as torque hits then slightly richer once again once peak power is made. :P

I've seen a few cars now that have been tuned by RacePace.

One being an RB30DET.

They sure do know what they are doing. :)

Sorry.. I was meaning that ~170kw could very well be 190kw on a Dynamic Dyno.

 

EDIT: I find it interestering how Racepace ran slightly richer afr's as torque hits then slightly richer once again once peak power is made. :P

I've seen a few cars now that have been tuned by RacePace.

One being an RB30DET.

They sure do know what they are doing. :)

Hi there Cubes,

Would my AFR be contributing to what I believe is bad fuel economy?

Spoke to Ben at Racepace today about my fuel economy, he said Big Cams (Step 2 280)on my engine means that its out of its efficiency range on the freeway.

Couldn't I have a setting where it could lean out or something on the Autronics when it sensors highway use to go into an economy mode on light loads or something?

It very well could be the cams are not working well on the freeway.

With such large lobes it would require a bit of playing to improve fuel economy.

No doubt you will also loose a little top end to in order to improve bottom end torque, VE and fuel economy.

Everything has its trade off's. ;)

It may be worth dropping 20kw at the top end to pick up decent fuel economy.

250km's per tank is unbelievable. What injectors are you running?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah 98 for me, and 6.7/100 was my actual usage. On the downside the bloody thing still isn't running properly but at least they hybrid system is happy now. It starts but missfires like a bastard, and isn't throwing any code except "missfire". Thanks scoop. I did notice the AFMs are reading quite different at idle 1.33v and 1.67v so 25% variance (and have both changed and swapped them, the issue stays on the driver's side afm) so I'm looking for exhaust restriction (mouse nest?), compression issue or (hopefully not, no physical damage seen) wiring issue. Throttle might also be an issue but that is harder because you can't swap them side to side and not cheap to fire the parts cannon at.
    • I hope you're right and it somehow justifies it's existence!
    • actually, I've had one of those for a while and it gets more use than you'd think. Yes catching subframes, engines etc coming out under a car on a hoist, but also getting heavy stuff on shelving (to a certain height) without a forklift, holding the fuga's hybrid battery....like many good tools you'll find the jobs for it once you have it
    • Right, so God, it's been nearly 12 months since my last confession....  The main confession is I'm a horrible car modifier (amongst other things).  Obviously the pool was a massive distraction for the entirety of last year but really doesn't excuse me for doing nothing at all on the car for this year.  To be honest this year was a mental break to get over the extreme mental torment and pressure I put myself through putting the pool in!  It really was a slog.  The pool is still not completely finished but it might never be....  The kids love it and the wifey and I love it so mission success! I have spent a grand total of 30 minutes working on the car since when I commenced on the pool.  I just have not had a spare brain cell to be able to focus on it.  The thought of working on it just seems abhorrent to be honest.  My heart is just not into it.  Yet..... What I have done is decide that I'm a clown to not paint ALL of the underside of the car while I'm at it.  Originally I was stopping at the start of the rear subframe to then "get back to it later on once I'm ready".  Let's be honest, later on might never happen so may as well keep diving in!  I'm already balls deep so may as well go a bit deeper! So......  I've just purchased a hydraulic scissor lift table to be able to take the rear subframe out as a whole unit without having to dick around with jack stands rolling around on the ground.  Us 6' 8" blokes don't operate well at ground level! One of these- Anyway, will the investment in an expensive tool that I'll probably only ever use for one job motivate me to crack on?  Only time will tell..... Wish me luck!
    • Yeah the ACL and similar formable heat shielding materials are really nice. But most people do not have the patience or talent to do a good job like that. Almost anything is better than nothing though. Even if you didn't form it closely like that and just had a slab of it slipped in between the manifold and somewhere/thing you wanted to protect, you would gain benefit. There has to be a market opportunity for people like Artec to make formed heatshields to suit their cast manifolds. The fact that they are cast means that they are consistently the exact same dimensions and they could add bosses to the castings like you see on stockers to allow heat shields to be firmly attached yet floating away from the manifold itself.
×
×
  • Create New...