Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a few questions about costs of some things that can be faulty in a GTR...I have no idea about them and would like to know what a replacement will cost before I go out and buy one soon...

ok heres what I have on top of my head, but if I missed anything please let me know :mad:

Water Pump

Timing Belt

Other Belts (AC, PS, Fan Belt...)

Fuel Pumps (front and rear)

Are the above things easy enough to replace, or should they be done professionally?

Then theres some other things:

Oil Filter

Brake Pads

Spark Plugs & Leads

Battery (whats the standard CCA for a GTR?) (I have a 500CCA Optima, that should be good, right!)

Is it easy enough to find a BOSS kit for a steering wheel for a GTR?

:P

Tom

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74748-r32-gtrweighing-up-some-costs/
Share on other sites

there's only one fuel pump...cost depends on what you want. A Bosch 040 or 044 will set you back around $350 or so...

Water pump is around $200 from Nissan if I'm not mistaken

Oil filters are cheap, say around $15-$20

There are no spark plug leads in a Skyline

The Optima is fine, I have a D34M

Crank collar for oil pump drive

cost?

there's only one fuel pump...cost depends on what you want. A Bosch 040 or 044 will set you back around $350 or so...

Water pump is around $200 from Nissan if I'm not mistaken

Oil filters are cheap, say around $15-$20

There are no spark plug leads in a Skyline

The Optima is fine, I have a D34M

no spark plug leads!....hmm, well ya learn something new everyday :P

come to think of it , I have never actually seen any in pictures etc...

Water Pump

Timing Belt

Other Belts (AC, PS, Fan Belt...)

Fuel Pumps (front and rear)

Are the above things easy enough to replace, or should they be done professionally?

genuine water pump is $300+ from Nissan, timing belt is around $90. Best do both at the same time and unless you know what your doing it would be better to have it done or at least get some help from someone that does (eg crank pulley bolt is done up to around 250ftlb's and getting it undone is a bitch even with the right tools).

Other belts can be bought aftermarket (Burson's etc), probably $15-$20 each.

There's only one fuel pump - in the tank

genuine water pump is $300+ from Nissan, timing belt is around $90.  Best do both at the same time and unless you know what your doing it would be better to have it done or at least get some help from someone that does (eg crank pulley bolt is done up to around 250ftlb's and getting it undone is a bitch even with the right tools).

Other belts can be bought aftermarket (Burson's etc), probably $15-$20 each.

There's only one fuel pump - in the tank

Genuine Nissan water pump is $132 including gst .

The crank pulley bolt is very easy to undo using the starter method .

If you dont know what you are doing you should let the pros do it , it will cost you heaps more if you stuff up.

Timing belt from Nissan is about $80 , half that for aftermarket , drive belts are all less than $20 each atermarket .

Spark plugs depends on what you buy , about $13 each for platinum .

Coil packs from about $650 per set .

Genuine Nissan water pump is $132 including gst .

Genuine R32 GTR pump is close to 3 times that ....suggest you re-check your price with Nissan (I have...and I get these for trade). R33 GTR pump is around that price, BUT it doesn't fit R32 GTR without mods which are beyond the capabilities of most. Could be fitted without the mods but would risk a leak....

As for using the starter motor...I don't agree with such dodges, but am not going to argue about it...to each there own. At the end of the day you've still got to do it up again.....

Genuine R32 GTR pump is close to 3 times that ....suggest you re-check your price with Nissan (I have...and I get these for trade).    R33 GTR pump is around that price, BUT it doesn't fit R32 GTR without mods which are beyond the capabilities of most.   Could be fitted without the mods but would risk a leak....

As for using the starter motor...I don't agree with such dodges, but am not going to argue about it...to each there own.   At the end of the day you've still got to do it up again.....

Yea you are correct thats for a 33 or 34 pump , i wouldn't pay $300 for a 32 .

The starter is a good way to undo the bolt , i use a 3/4 " rattle gun where possible to undo and a ring gear tool to hold the engine from turning to do it up if the engine is out .

coil packs sit over the spark plugs, thats why they don't have leads

I got a N1 water pump for my GTST when I had it brand new for 150 from just jap, give them a call and ask how much, I have my receipt at home for the GTR one somewhere, I'll look it up, I don't think it would have been that much different

Services every 5-7K (finding time is hard)

Oil $40-$50 ? I'm about to do my first one so if someone can suggest a brand it would be great

Spark plugs $3.75 each from peps. NGK copper 7's

Filter $10-$15 depending on brand

Does anyone else drive there GTR daily? I'm finding I'm racking up alot of km's, more then when I had my GTST

mark

Does anyone else drive there GTR daily? I'm finding I'm racking up alot of km's, more then when  I had my GTST

mark

Does 'nightly' count? After 11:30pm until about 1am or I see enough cop cars and decide to go home. But I've only had my GTR for 2 weeks.

Does 'nightly' count?  After 11:30pm until about 1am or I see enough cop cars and decide to go home.  But I've only had my GTR for 2 weeks.

lucky bastid :(

can't wait to get mine and go for a cruise...with mates or to a SAUWA one, TPC, PPCC etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is there a diameter difference in the stock to Nismo? If so, the weight alone won't be indicative when comparing flywheels of the same diameter, since the radius of the flywheel acts on the moment of inertia with a square factor, where as mass is linear. Roughly going from a 4.5kg flywheel with radius 20cm, to a 9kg flywheel with radius 14cm would see them act the same. This calc is just here to act as a brief numbers comparison and reflects no actual RB flywheel diameters etc. it also assumes even weight distribution (thickness) throughout.
    • It seems this could be due to a restructure/team direction change... Or... You're working with a different category of vehicle... Or you've decided you'd rather be able to play with your own cars again...   I'm hoping the latter...
    • had 4 weeks off over xmas and well did some stuff to the shed and BRZ, well short of is I don't work full time in supercars anymore as of yesterday.........
    • Did you get any down time over Christmas, or have you had any since to play with this? Or have you given up and are trying to get yourself a second hand V8SC instead?
    • A random thought I had just before I hit "Submit on this post". If brake fluid, in a container in my garage that has never been opened goes bad after 18 months, why can I leave it in my car for 24 months in an "unsealed container"... Secondly, some other digging, and brake fluid manufacturers seem to be saying 5 year shelf life... Me thinks there line on 18 months for an unsealed bottle is pretty much horse shit marketing spin. Kind of like how if you drive a car and don't run a turbo timer your turbo and motor will die horribly...   Where I started on this though... Someone (me) started down a bit of a rabbit hole, I don't quite have the proper equipment to do Equilibrium Reflux boiling per the proper test standards. I did a little digging on YouTube, and this was the first video I found on someone attempting to "just boil it". This video isn't overly scientific, as we don't have a known reference for his test either. Inaccuracy in his equipment could have him reaching the 460 to 470f boiling point range in reality. In the video, using a laser temp gun, he claims his Dot3 that's been open in his florida garage for over a year gets to about 420 to 430 fahrenheit (215 to 221c) Doing some googling, I located an MSDS for that specific oil, and from new, it claims a dry boiling point of 460 to 470f. Unfortunately they don't list a wet boiling point for us to see how far it degraded toward its "wet" point. While watching it I was thinking "I wonder what the flash point is..." turns out its only 480f for that specific brake fluid....   As for testing the oil's resistance, I might not be able to accurately do that unfortunately. Resistance level will be quite a LOT higher than my system can read I suspect based on some research. However, I might be able to do it by measuring the current when I apply a specific voltage. I won't have an actual water % value, but I'll have some values I can compare between the multitude of fluids. I'll run some vague calculations later and see if I should be able to read any reliable amount of current. These calcs will be based on some values I've found for other oils, and see how close I'll need my terminals together. From memory I can get down to 1pA accuracy on the DMM. I don't think my IOT Power Tester has any better resolution.    
×
×
  • Create New...