Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My SSS has tiny little scratches on nearly everywhere imaginable. To top this off, I also have to have a new rear bumper fitted and painted.

[/size]

Was just curious if anyone has had their car buffed (professionally), and the results that they had. I have heard reports of people charging up to $1000 for a full coat, buff, and interior steam clean.. This is way out of my budget.

I was thinking that a new bumper fitted and sprayed should cost $300 and wasn't too sure what to pay for buffing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74791-buffing-your-car/
Share on other sites

got my car buffed at micheal's autodetailing at wetheril park. got recommended to me by a few people in the spraypainting industry. he did an awesome job, cost around $230. full buff and steam clean is about 180 from memory but i had a few more things done.

It came up awesome, when i first got my car the paintwork was terrible(9 months on the docks). when he finished it it looked like a respray it was that good. there is a pic in my galllery of my car just after he detailed it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74791-buffing-your-car/#findComment-1372431
Share on other sites

I am about to invest in a american random orbital buffing machine so hopefully with a little practice I should be able to get the same professional results my self. These machines are good as they make it very hard to burn the paint.. (maybe i should practice on someone else's car first).

That said I am considering getting someone to do the WHOLE car.. see if I can get it nice and clean. The poor girl has had alot of attention to performance of late and not to the outside.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74791-buffing-your-car/#findComment-1372441
Share on other sites

I am about to invest in a american random orbital buffing machine so hopefully with a little practice I should be able to get the same professional results my self. These machines are good as they make it very hard to burn the paint.. (maybe i should practice on someone else's car first).

That said I am considering getting someone to do the WHOLE car.. see if I can get it nice and clean. The poor girl has had alot of attention to performance of late and not to the outside.

These machines are very good and you dont need to be a pro to use them , they are not buffing machines though and they wont bring up a badly faded paint job .

Don't frget you need a transfomer as well and they are not cheap !

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74791-buffing-your-car/#findComment-1372668
Share on other sites

I bought one of those random orbital buffers from Kmart, and used the Meguiars 3 step polishing system.

I only used the orbital buffer for the 1st step (slight cut), and 2nd step (polish), then just used cloths for the carnauba wax.

When I first got my car the paint looked clean but was incredibly rough. If you looked closely at it there were tiny little black spots all throughout the paint too.

Now it's as smooth as a baby's butt :P

CRW_0813websafe.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74791-buffing-your-car/#findComment-1372699
Share on other sites

Ive been told that the second step is just silicon which gives the car the wet look is a pannel beaters nightmare as it is a real pain in the ass to match.

I just use step 1 and 3 after i heard that.

maybe true, i had a friends supra for a day that had been ruined by using a cut on a perfectly fine clear coat, he wanted me to test the paint cleaner and it did the trick (temporarily)

covered up all the swirls 100%

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74791-buffing-your-car/#findComment-1375016
Share on other sites

Ive been told that the second step is just silicon which gives the car the wet look is a pannel beaters nightmare as it is a real pain in the ass to match.

I just use step 1 and 3 after i heard that.

yeh silicone is a painters nightmare, not to match, but it sort of sticks to the paint really well, and causes hundreds of small indentations in the paint

don't use anything with silicone in it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74791-buffing-your-car/#findComment-1375036
Share on other sites

guys i am a professional detailer and if you want good results, see a pro. get your car looking good first then keeping it looking good is all about how you maintain it. techniques for car care are posted in the forum as a complete car care prescription, everything from engine bay to paint. any questions dont hesitate to pm me.

mr r32 if anyone tries to charge you $1000 for a detail tell them that that is absolute bull. you should no get charged any more than a couple of hundred. give your car a clean before you go and get it quoteted. trust me it will lower the price, how do i know because i am the one who quotes.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74791-buffing-your-car/#findComment-1375054
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
    • Sorry for reviving an old post, but I'm having the same hot idle tick issue. Did anyone ever find out what it was?  I have checked/ replaced Injectors Coils checked Lifter clerance (is at zero) Checked Cam lobes Replaced exhaust gasket and studs Would appreciate any advice this is driving me nuts  
    • There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
    • What HVAC actuator is under the steering wheel? Do you mean on the RHS of the centre console, immediately to the left of your shin? If so, then yes, it is probably that one, because that is the mode door actuator, and from what I know, it's still a pain in the arse to replace. I don't know about whole dash out, but you certainly have to rip into the centre console section. I don't know if it's covered in the workshop manual, as I haven't spent much time looking at those parts of it. (and by "the workshop manual, I mean the R32 GTR one, which is the most comprehensive one we have, and it should be similar enough between that and later cars to serve as a guide).
    • ...oops. forgot the TCU end...
×
×
  • Create New...