Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

At what point do I need to upgrage the rods in my RB26?

The plan is for 350rwkw standard crank, forgies and unsure of rods.

how will the standard ones hold up?

How good are the eagle rods and what do they retail for here in Aus?

I can get crower rods from the states for US$1100, and carrillo's for US $1200 - $US 1800 (pro A vs pro H). (plus GST, freight customs etc)

Is it worth the bucks to upgrade the rods.

I've done a forum search and had a read and the big HP guys all use aftermarket rods but where do we draw the line?

Pistons.... Arias seem to be the go from what I've read, but always interested in more opinions.

WTB

GTR R33 standard crank in good condition

rods? maybe

new pistons

if you can afford it go the aftermarket rods

i was after the same sort of figure 350rwkw and was told the originals shotpeened would handle that no probs so i went with that.... But in the future when 350 isnt enough...(always looking 4 more) the "upgraded" rods will handle it!!

my 2 cents.

Im after the same figure. Im using the standard (shotpeaned) rods and Arias pistons. I was told if you keep the same redline, rods arent necessary especially for 350rwkw. Thats what ive been told anyway.

Shaun.

When I built mine, I was aiming for around the same mark. I decided that the wife would divorce me if I spent too much on the rebuild, so the rods stayed standard, but had them cryo treated along with the block, crank and cradle. Made 352rwhp before the exhaust strangled the deal (then I proceeded to write it off 2 hrs later...but that's a completely other story). Be sure to have the engine completed balanced and blueprinted in the rebuilt process.

Cheers

Brendan

From personal experience, shotpeened stock rods are fine for 350rwkw. We pushed my stock shot peened rods to 446rwkw and then when we did my rebuild, I went with Nismo rods which have held 600+ awkw.

For 350rwkw, all you really need are forged pistons for a bit of detenation security.

From personal experience, shotpeened stock rods are fine for 350rwkw.  We pushed my stock shot peened rods to 446rwkw and then when we did my rebuild,  I went with Nismo rods which have held 600+ awkw.

For 350rwkw, all you really need are forged pistons for a bit of detenation security.

i agreed, i have been running my std internals at 397rwkw for 18months know and know of others running more. :(

also concide Wiseco pistons ~$1250 good price for a good piston.

Std GTR rods are good at 400- 450kw@wheels and up to 9000rpm.....above that level we usually replace em with something better, but in saying that, we have never broken one either....they are a short, tough little rod....

:D 400 for the next car show me thinks

  • 1 month later...
Whilst I would agree that GTR rods are tough, I did manage to bend three rods in mine at only 350rwkw, just worth keeping in mind:D

Any other causal factors to contemplate there Paul? Gudgeon binding or oilflow problems?

Eagle don't make a rod for the RB26 unfortunately, only SR20 and VG30. The Wiseco pistons are listed at 8.0-8.4 in the catalogue, the last set we used came out at 8.6 by the time everything was machined and using a 1mm head gasket.

We used a set of REV rods in the last 26 we did. They aren't a bad looking rod, pretty similar to an argo in design. I heard they are made in China, but then so are Eagles and they are a fantastic rod for the price. We had a problem with a binding conrod bolt in one of the REV rods but UAS replaced it straight away. It's a pretty common problem if the bolts arent lubed properly when the rods are assembled at the factory. They use ARP bolts and come finished on bottom size on the big and little end tunnels, we had to finish them to size which is a good thing if you have the machine to do it as you can get the clearances spot on. A lot of conrod manufacturers do the same thing as it saves having to close the rod up to get it back to the size you want. For the dollars ($1500ish)they are a nice rod.

One rod I'm really impressed with is the ones PAR make in Sydney. We've got an EJ25 here at the moment that runs 400ish RWKW and the rods look like brand new, the tunnels are still round and even the small end bush isn't hammered out. I think We'll use them from now on as they're Australian made and as good as anything I've seen. A bit more pricey than the REV rods though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Incidentally, I also put v3 of the tune on the car and did an oil change from 5w20 to 5w40 to see how it affected oil pressure in the mid to high end. I'm still happier with the thicker oil and will stick with it, but clearly the system is happy with 55psi even if I'm not!
    • So the other thing I got sorted over the weekend was Z1 oil catch can install. https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-products/z1-motorsports/z1-q50-q60-30t-baffled-oil-catch-can-kit-p-23546.html It was a good kit, most importantly it came with preformed silicone hoses in the right shapes rather than trying to bend/join regular straight rubber hose. It did come with crappy spring clamps not proper hose clamps so I ditched them On the down side, it is made for LHD cars and RHD cars have the main ECU harness running straight through that location, I ended up bending 2 mounting brackets so the loom is up against the brake master cylinder compartment wall to make room for it....otherwise everything fit without modification Intercoolers off on both sides, but there was enough room to get everything done without disconnecting (and therefore having to re-bleed) the coolant lines. Each is mounted with 4x 12mm headed bolts, plus in and out side hose clamps (7mm headed, nice) and 3 electrical connectors on the navigator's side which were a real pain to undo (probably for the first time in 13 years).   Also one of the mounting bolts on the driver's side was cross threaded, thanks Infiniti/Nissan workshop mechanics. On the navigator's side, the catch can plumbs into the factory hose that goes from the cam cover PCV back to the intake.  This is the 2 new hoses in place. All simples and direct fit On driver's side, there is a bracket provided that mounts to the throttle body, they even provide slightly longer bolts to allow for the bracket thickness which is nice (although, they don't have captive washers like the factory bolts of course) In that pic the main loom brackets are not in place, once I had "adjusted" them across it now sits up against the panel and just clears the OCC The remaining problem with this is emptying it; currently you have to remove the 3x m4 bolts that hold it to the bracket and both banjos to remove it (probably dropping the banjo washers at the same time) pull it apart to empty then replace. I do have some fittings coming for a remote drain from underneath that will also add a little capacity...it is very small and will need to be emptied every oil change to be sure.
    • Noise sounds to me could be either wheel bearing related (have had similar from bearings going) or that tail shaft is still loose. Or something like a heat shield touching the tail shaft.
    • You wouldn't get away with saying the opposite, if you were there.
    • Do some wool fluff testing on the vents
×
×
  • Create New...