Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

sorry for my stupidity - i got of fmy arse and searched and found in the timeslip registry...

Very good work. for an n1 rb26.

awesome time. it speaks for itself.

My goals are very similar for the gtr..... 11sec 1/4 with 120mph+

even though its not going to be a drag car type car.

Car: R32 GTR

Engine type and displacement: RB26, 2.6 LTR

Induction: Twin Turbo

Major modifications: AUTRONIC,AUTRONIC CDI

Tranny type: Manual

Tires: Street Radials

Horsepower: 474.0

60 foot time: 1.670

1/4 Mile ET: 11.180

1/4 Mile MPH: 126.00

Track Name: WILLOWBANK

sorry for my stupidity - i got of fmy arse and searched and found in the timeslip registry...

Very good work. for an n1 rb26.

awesome time. it speaks for itself.

My goals are very similar for the gtr..... 11sec 1/4 with 120mph+

even though its not going to be a drag car type car.

Car:  R32 GTR 

Engine type and displacement:  RB26, 2.6 LTR 

Induction:  Twin Turbo 

Major modifications:  AUTRONIC,AUTRONIC CDI 

Tranny type:  Manual 

Tires:  Street Radials 

Horsepower:  474.0 

60 foot time:  1.670 

1/4 Mile ET:  11.180 

1/4 Mile MPH:  126.00 

Track Name:  WILLOWBANK

hi there

i have to tell you, my mods are very similar.

n1 engine(as the engine was blown when bought the car)

autronic & autronic cdi

4" gonzo exhaust ( not to loud)

ppg 5 speed dog box ( this only went in a few weeks ago, as original box finally

let go, 11.1 done on standard box)

hks cams

bosch pump & larger injectors (think 770cc??)

fuel rail & reg

23 psi

tomei baffles

tomei metal gaskets

koyo radiator and thermos (week ago)

6 piston ap's 365mm rotors(2 weeks ago)

18" r34 wheels

hicas lock

recaro drivers seat & rails

interesting to note i actually went quicker when we dropped the power down,

back around 320rwkw as 60 foot was quicker than we had been achieving,

it was just easier to get off the line without wheel spin. the car has run through at 130 mph( but slower 60ft).

i think the new gearbox would get a 11 flat or very high ten, it is lightening

fast on gear changes now.

my car is being setup for circuit and sprints also, thats what makes them so good

great on the strip or circuit, or street.

hope to see you round some time.

cheers russ

yeah russ, thanks for that info i appreciate it.

im hoping for mine to be set up for ciruit and sprints also, with a few drags thrown in for fun! :P

cant wait for mine to land here.

Michael

Show me a better value for performance, handling, 4WD, track, curcuit, drag, street car out there and I'II buy it......

EVO's, and WRX's. Just cause they are 4WD doesnt make them all that... Reliability plays a big part in it. The most comonly destroyed RB engine is the 26 due to poor design from the factory.

Im not biased, i do own one, and from an owners point, i still say they are over rated, from driving instructers, and from mechanics they will all tell you the same thing.

EVO's, and WRX's. Just cause they are 4WD doesnt make them all that... Reliability plays a big part in it. The most comonly destroyed RB engine is the 26 due to poor design from the factory.

Im not biased, i do own one, and from an owners point, i still say they are over rated, from driving instructers, and from mechanics they will all tell you the same thing.

Must admit I do have a thing for EVO's & WRX's. They are the only other cars that I like.

I guess the GTR, I believe has more potential when all factory problems are addressed.

I do agree that the RB 26 has some design faults that should have been adressed from factory.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep it's an r34. Usually people remove struts without removing the front upper control arm (fuca is what i assume this is?) So not sure why mine wouldn't fit. I know on my other car I did a similar job and it wouldn't fit until I removes the ball joint nut even though I didn't remove it prior.   The upper arm doesn't seem to be in the way (the part that's bolted to the chassis. The part that's bolted onto the j arm I'll check that out though.   I was going to compress the spring and put it in with the compressor attached but not sure if it will work  Haven't seen anyone do it.
    • I have a small lip on the boot of the E90 and I've been toying with the idea of trying to mould it in to the boot to remove the gaps. I guess shaving the seams? No idea what the terminology is here.  What I'm wondering is, if it's current double sided taped down, what would I do to more permanently attach it so it makes a good base for the filler? It only has edges so no way to bolt it down unless I add some braces. I've done a lot of fibre glassing in my time so that's nice and easy but I'm not sure what my options are here.  Sorry, this is the best pic I have and I'm 4 million ks from home ATM.  
    • Based on this comment I went googling. A052's in the sizes I want are certainly not cheap, but I couldn't find anything in the V70A anywhere. How much do they run/where do they get sourced from? From what I know (nothing but internet searches and reviews etc) the R888 has pretty much fallen off from anyone's actual use, and the AO52 is the king of "road legal" rubber. Nobody is driving around on their daily for Z221, AO050, DZ03G. At that point, for purely track only tyres - Why not buy actual slicks? Why does nobody actually do that anyway?
    • This an R34? It shouldn't matter though - it should be the same as on any of the others, and by "any of the others" I mean R32, because that is the car that I have had the front end apart on about 50 times this year. Sometimes, it is much easier to get the lower shock eye onto that pin when: a) you have the upper shock nuts backed off a few turns so you can wiggle it a bit more freely. When they are tight the bottom of the strut is much harder to move that _leeeetle_ bit you might need it to to win the fight. b) you have the outer bolt(s) from the FUCA out and so you can move the lower pin around freely too. Then, all you have to do is put the upper arm back on when you've got the rest back together, and this is where jacking under the balljoint can help.
    • One question before I make a bigger mess potentially, do I need to undo the nut on the outer ball joint? 
×
×
  • Create New...