Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

sorry for my stupidity - i got of fmy arse and searched and found in the timeslip registry...

Very good work. for an n1 rb26.

awesome time. it speaks for itself.

My goals are very similar for the gtr..... 11sec 1/4 with 120mph+

even though its not going to be a drag car type car.

Car: R32 GTR

Engine type and displacement: RB26, 2.6 LTR

Induction: Twin Turbo

Major modifications: AUTRONIC,AUTRONIC CDI

Tranny type: Manual

Tires: Street Radials

Horsepower: 474.0

60 foot time: 1.670

1/4 Mile ET: 11.180

1/4 Mile MPH: 126.00

Track Name: WILLOWBANK

sorry for my stupidity - i got of fmy arse and searched and found in the timeslip registry...

Very good work. for an n1 rb26.

awesome time. it speaks for itself.

My goals are very similar for the gtr..... 11sec 1/4 with 120mph+

even though its not going to be a drag car type car.

Car:  R32 GTR 

Engine type and displacement:  RB26, 2.6 LTR 

Induction:  Twin Turbo 

Major modifications:  AUTRONIC,AUTRONIC CDI 

Tranny type:  Manual 

Tires:  Street Radials 

Horsepower:  474.0 

60 foot time:  1.670 

1/4 Mile ET:  11.180 

1/4 Mile MPH:  126.00 

Track Name:  WILLOWBANK

hi there

i have to tell you, my mods are very similar.

n1 engine(as the engine was blown when bought the car)

autronic & autronic cdi

4" gonzo exhaust ( not to loud)

ppg 5 speed dog box ( this only went in a few weeks ago, as original box finally

let go, 11.1 done on standard box)

hks cams

bosch pump & larger injectors (think 770cc??)

fuel rail & reg

23 psi

tomei baffles

tomei metal gaskets

koyo radiator and thermos (week ago)

6 piston ap's 365mm rotors(2 weeks ago)

18" r34 wheels

hicas lock

recaro drivers seat & rails

interesting to note i actually went quicker when we dropped the power down,

back around 320rwkw as 60 foot was quicker than we had been achieving,

it was just easier to get off the line without wheel spin. the car has run through at 130 mph( but slower 60ft).

i think the new gearbox would get a 11 flat or very high ten, it is lightening

fast on gear changes now.

my car is being setup for circuit and sprints also, thats what makes them so good

great on the strip or circuit, or street.

hope to see you round some time.

cheers russ

yeah russ, thanks for that info i appreciate it.

im hoping for mine to be set up for ciruit and sprints also, with a few drags thrown in for fun! :P

cant wait for mine to land here.

Michael

Show me a better value for performance, handling, 4WD, track, curcuit, drag, street car out there and I'II buy it......

EVO's, and WRX's. Just cause they are 4WD doesnt make them all that... Reliability plays a big part in it. The most comonly destroyed RB engine is the 26 due to poor design from the factory.

Im not biased, i do own one, and from an owners point, i still say they are over rated, from driving instructers, and from mechanics they will all tell you the same thing.

EVO's, and WRX's. Just cause they are 4WD doesnt make them all that... Reliability plays a big part in it. The most comonly destroyed RB engine is the 26 due to poor design from the factory.

Im not biased, i do own one, and from an owners point, i still say they are over rated, from driving instructers, and from mechanics they will all tell you the same thing.

Must admit I do have a thing for EVO's & WRX's. They are the only other cars that I like.

I guess the GTR, I believe has more potential when all factory problems are addressed.

I do agree that the RB 26 has some design faults that should have been adressed from factory.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah the ACL and similar formable heat shielding materials are really nice. But most people do not have the patience or talent to do a good job like that. Almost anything is better than nothing though. Even if you didn't form it closely like that and just had a slab of it slipped in between the manifold and somewhere/thing you wanted to protect, you would gain benefit. There has to be a market opportunity for people like Artec to make formed heatshields to suit their cast manifolds. The fact that they are cast means that they are consistently the exact same dimensions and they could add bosses to the castings like you see on stockers to allow heat shields to be firmly attached yet floating away from the manifold itself.
    • I've seen some stuff like this as well, not sure if it's a good idea or anything but it does have more standoff from the piping than the conventional fiberglass wrap:  
    • Jap premium will be 100 RON. You should use 98.
    • The exhaust gases are at their highest temperature as they leave the exhaust port and enter the manifold. They cool as they flow through the manifold because they transfer heat to the manifold and the manifold loses heat to the surrounding environment. Thus, inevitably, the exhaust gases are cooler as they enter the turbo compared to when they entered the exhaust manifold. So, yes, the exhaust manifold can easily get as hot as the turbine housing. Having said that, you will generally see the highest temperatures where the exhaust gases have to slow down or they are concentrated into one area - which is usually the collector on the manifold and in the turbine housing, because the gases slam into the metal at those places, increasing the convective heat transfer coefficient and transferring even more heat to the metal than they might just flowing past elsewhere. Exhaust manifold heat shields are a good idea - certainly for the stock manifold they are there from the factory. People seldom have anything like that on a tubular manifold because they are hard to achieve. Some might wrap a tube manifold with fibreglass tape - but this has a reputation of leading to cracked welds. The best case is generally to put ceramic coating onto the manifold to prevent it getting as hot (internal coating) and radiating/convecting heat into the bay (external coating). All the real heat from a turbo comes from the exhaust side. The gases entering are at ~800-900°C and the steel/iron gets nearly that hot. The compressor side is only going to heat the charge air up to <<200°C (typically not much more than 100°C). So that's nothing, by comparison. The compressor is not a significant source of engine bay heat.
    • Late to the party, specifically joined this forum as I just bought one of these and this thread has been a gold mine of info. If the OP is still around, mind if I ask what gas you been putting in yours? Mine has a Japanese sticker in the cap saying premium but it seems to get way worse mileage on premium (95) than 91. I always thought it was meant to be the other way round🤷 I do think Nissans claimed "6l/100km" is a bit fantastical 😂
×
×
  • Create New...