Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Just thought I'd add a post, My 32 runs like a dream, I've had it almost 3 years now and its hardly skipped a beat.

Fuel ecconomy is pretty bad, backfires a fair bit, boosts hard, 171.9 at the wheels.

Standard ecu, Dump pipe, full 3 in zoorst, Hi flow cat, Hks pod, 14psi boost :D

Bosch 044 or 040 fuel pump, (cant remember)

And probably some other things.

See there is brigh light at the end of the tunnel, And my 32 is my daily driver and i give it hell everyday and it asks for more :lol:

Pease

Greg

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey guys,

Just thought I'd add a post, My 32 runs like a dream, I've had it almost 3 years now and its hardly skipped a beat.

Fuel ecconomy is pretty bad, backfires a fair bit, boosts hard, 171.9 at the wheels.

Standard ecu, Dump pipe, full 3 in zoorst, Hi flow cat, Hks pod, 14psi boost  :D

Bosch 044 or 040 fuel pump, (cant remember)

And probably some other things.

See there is brigh light at the end of the tunnel, And my 32 is my daily driver and i give it hell everyday and it asks for more  :lol:

Pease

Greg

mate?? what is your point....?? did you have this problem or are you just posting for the heck of it? :D

Guys, I got my car back today after having the same problem fixed. First I got a brand new fuel pump, which was the main suspect. The car was better but it didn't fix the problem. Then they changed the afm but still no cigar. After a few days of figuring out the problem, they fixed/changed the crank angle sensor (got nfi what it is/does) and now it's perfectly fine. Almost...

It used to stall every single time I stopped but now it doesn't do it unless the lights are on. ARGHHH. Which leads me to believe either

a) Need new battery. (getting one on Monday)

or

B) it's an electrical problem. I'm gonna take it to an auto electrician on Monday if the new battery doesn't work. I'll keep you guys informed.

So to sum it up, if you've checked the fuel pump and AFM and it's still f**ked, try the CAS.

hi there,  i am having the same problem, and am also trying to diagnose it.

Ok, from time to time, just driving normally,  it'll  "hesitate" and u litterally loose all power for a split second, then it comes back on.      It does this from time to time

when it's bad.  it'll do it alot.  (like  on-off-on-off  bucking you describe).  and eventually u usually have to pull over.

When i pull over.  revs will idle funny  -  like  1k - 2k - 1k - 2k - 1k - 2k  back and forth for a while, and will then either settle down, or the car will stall.    Although idle is jumping between 1 and 2k, it's still smooth, when you're standing still,  it's not eratic.  (does it do this on your car?)

Because it's idling like this, i'm wondering if it might be a Idle-control valve problem, or coolant temp sensor.    The other thing i'm getting is an unusually high cold-idle in the morning - this could be unrelated however.  I haven't checked for ECU fault codes, but i'll do this tomorrow morning.

I've tried removing the bov and blocking intake off with a plate, and blocking vac-line off,  but makes no difference.

-Tim

I had high idle issues a while back, cause of mine was the rear fuel pressure regulator vacum hose had come of. Replaced the hose and problem fixed

Cutting/hesitation - I'd be looking at fuel pump/fuel supply, which the above might also apply

Chris

Fixed mine completely yesterday. :rolleyes: The electrical problem that made my car only stall when the lights were on was the master earth. It had somehow come off and just needed to be screwed onto a different place. After all that trouble, I have finally gotten rid of this problem.

  • 5 months later...
could be idle air control

My g/f's r32 had the 1000rpm - 2000rpm idle hunt going on for awhile. I pulled the AFM off and cleaned it. That didn't fix the problem.

Finally we took it to a mechanic, within minutes he diagnosed the IACV as the problem.. Pulled it off and reco'd it, then popped it back on. Immediately the hunt was gone, BUT the car was still idling at 1000rpm....

Turns out the other idle solenoid (not sure what it's called, the one that is partly hidden by the intake manifold) was broken. Once replaced with a new part everything was good again.

So if anyone else out there is having the same issue and finds this thread like I did, check you IACV as well as the AFM.

Dude i had the rpm hunting issue. where it went from 1k to 2k to 1k to 2k etc

i changed everything to try and fix it but in the end it was the

COLD START SOLENOID!

located just under the intake plume cross over pipe(between the intake and the rocker cover, on the left as u look at the engine bay from the front) you have to get a torch and look down there. its a square thing with pipes going in one side and out the other.

messin around with the tps dont do jak

If any bodys got questions id be happy to tell u what i found

cheers

  • 4 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Hey guys

gts4-t 94...... had the same problem. She would hunt and then jerk forward and the loss power! i had the spark plugs replaced and gapped and the air flow meter! its most probably the AFM.... my car would stale sometimes at the lights or low revs... send it to the mechanic no problems! couldn't make it do it! eventually the mechanic change 3 things

1. spark plugs

2. AFM

3. ECU

It was the AFM and spark plugs! you should be able to get a afm off a 300zx should do the trick!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It's weird to me that you say this because I'm pretty sure locals with relatively standard standalone tunes (boost/barometric compensated alpha-N) still have driveability issues when they pop intercooler hoses. Maybe with enough data I can just train some kind of model that spits out an expected grams/cyl given every sensor input except MAF like what FCA did with their Pentastar 3.6 ECU logic. Basically stock everything. The main motivation honestly is to have a sensor that can be a decent baseline source of truth. In scenarios you're describing obviously it won't work every time but it seems to me the number of corner cases that exist in MAF load is maybe not as severe and difficult to manage vs ITB alpha-N with some MAP/barometric compensation.
    • What are your plans for your blow off valves? Purely plumb back? How soft will the spring in them be? AFM can be tricky to get super smooth and nice, especially depending on the rest of the system, and then can be very easily upset if something slightly changes. IE, even if you run recirc blow off valves, you could still see issues getting it to behave at certain load points as turbos might start to spool, but you release the throttle but it's not enough pressure to crack the bov open to recirc, and you can end up with reversion which can cause double metering, and hence dumping of fuel into the system, and stalling the engine.   If you're going to run a map sensor for closed loop boost control from the ECU, what makes you want to keep the AFM?    
    • It's not bad, it's just not flexible. And say if you have any leaks between the MAF and plenum, well then your load axis goes out the window. Here's a real world scenario, I blew off an intercooler hose last track day, as the clamp decided to Bluetooth itself somewhere. Still continued to do 2 laps and drive it to the pub for a couple of beers then home. Good luck doing that with a MAF setup 
    • Is MAF load really that bad? I'm not trying to do big power, my only real desire is VCAM and flex fuel support so I'm not terrified of blowing my engine apart from CA's appalling 95 RON "premium" fuel. Stuff like playing with closed loop boost control and really dialing in my transient fueling and ignition are frankly just to prove to myself I remembered something from uni.
    • Thats what ive been doing. Ive got a million questions but i know theyve probably all been answered before at some stage. Todays research included nismo heritage seat covers, s3 projector headlight retrofits and how to remove/paint the rocker covers 
×
×
  • Create New...