Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Are you sure the GTR pedal box is different?

Bl4ck32 picked one up and said it was the same?!?!

They are the same, however the GTR one has the studs reversed. Mine came with no studs, but it has the reversed holes in the bracket already there for the GTST. I think Nissan made the bracket for both cars, but reversed the studs on the GTR for some reason.....

I replaced the slave cylinder yesterday and the old slave was indeed leaking.

Unfortunately when I hold my foot on the clutch it still slowly bleeds off causing the clutch to engage. :P

I've tried re-bleeding the master cyl, little box and the slave cyl.

The master cylinder is roughly 2 years old and done around 60,000km's with an 800kg clutch.

There doesn't appear to be any air in the system, there also appears to be no fluid loss. When the clutch bleeds off upon letting go of the clutch the pedal doesn't come all the way up but half roughly, i then need to pull it up with my foot.

Its fine as long as I don't sit with my foot on the clutch.

I had a look at the pedal box as good as I could without pulling it out and can't see any breakages.

Does it sound like a pedal box. Damn.

Just spoke to my old man, he said it sounds like the brake fluid is squeezing past the cup or something. :P

I know what he is describing. Very possible. It has done a lot of changes, especially as the car is a daily driver for Uni obviously changing gears a lot + its ran a 800kg clutch for 60,000km's or so.

I'll rip the pedal box and master cyl out at once I think, weld up the box and buy another master cyl.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dunno what to tell you, when I look at it on Consult I can see this warmup timing map kicking in around 40C coolant temp and it sticks around for a while:  At part throttle on the normal base timing map it peaks around ~43 degrees of timing or something like that, this warmup timing map drops it to like 12-15 degrees. 
    • I don't think that's what you're seeing. Something else doing that. The only time I've seen it get so retarded is when it's trying to control idle (in which case we're not talking about mapped timing tagets anyway) and when there is an extreme coolant temperature sensor fault. The RB26 ECU is essentially the same as the 20 ECU and I knew that ging inside out. There is no facility for it to retard that heavily on cold start. The OEMs never used to do it back then. I mean, shit, the catalyst is abotu 3 miles down the exhaust anyway. Early light-off was just a twinkle in some EPA arsehole's eye back then, not a regular engine control strategy.
    • I must preface my comments with a general expression of ignorance. I have no specific knowledge of these NA automtaic things. I can only assume that the "steering wheel button" is for enabling the tiptronic controls. Wierd that it would even need/want a button for that... But anyway.... Was the car previously tiptronic? Did you put a new cluster in as part of all this?
    • Regardless, it doesn't seem wise especially on RBs to actually chase MBT. Timing scatter is the big one on stock CAS, even if that's fixed overshoot is worse than undershoot. 
    • It's all about reducing the overall output. Reduce the source of it, you have wayyyy less to deal with in every other step and trick you play with. It's why something like a modern vehicle, so VW, Audi etc, there's thousands of tables for the ECU to calculate what it should be doing with the engine.   Why would you NOT reduce emissions the most effective way possible, when it has very minimal tradeoff, AND manufacturers are always struggling to meet the current standards.
×
×
  • Create New...