Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just as reference

http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/t...rod%2fprod2.htm

http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/t...rod%2fprod2.htm

Anyway,

i read somewhere about just pulling a plug or something, but i just want to think about this in a single thread.

I want to know if anyone has any evidence for HOW it could possibly damage the car, i mean, if there is a controller made for this kinda change im sure that company wouldnt want to hold that much responsibility. Also, someone mentioned the r32, hasnt teh atessa system basically stayed the same.

Reason i ask, when i get a stagea(hopefully in a few weeks now) i am going to want to slide it (yes, LSD, coilovers etc would be bought) and i dont really wannt eat gear boxes.

Also, what about after a manual conversion, or an S, anyone know the effects.

Yeh, so, basically just looking to make a single thread on the idea. Cheers peoples

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74841-changing-from-awd-to-rwd/
Share on other sites

Yeah theres a couple of RWD Stagea series 2 up in Queensland - Motorman Imports I think (they want a bit much for them though I reckon) - get one of them for drifting - then u dont have all the 4WD weight to the car either. Or even better I am sure you could even find a manual RWD Stagea in Japan and bring it over. Drifting a skyline... gonna be a sight to see - take some photos :wassup:

But if youve already got an auto RSFour lined up - then theres heaps of technical stuff in the non-Stagea threads about disabling the front wheel drive and arguments over potential damage - do a search :)

:D

R32GTR's do not retain hydraulic pressure in the ATTESSA system when the fuse is removed. R33/34GTR's do have residual pressure, so you can't just pull the fuse (or turn it off with a switch). Stage S1 is the basically same ATTESSA system as R33 and Stagea S2 is the same as R34. So you can't just pull the fuse (or turn it off with a switch).

This is one reason why R32GTR's tolerate a larger rear end slip angle (oversteer) then R33/34. Since there is residual pressure, the response time for 4wd is much reduced.

I can speak from 4wd dyno experience, the only way to ensure 100% 2wd from a Stagea at all times is to remove the front driveshaft.

:D

SK,

Where is the Attessa ecu in the Stage? Also, by "pulling the plug" and removing front shafts (how i dyno'ed my GTR) is it known if this will effect the car over time? wear/tear/damage etc? I'd like to convert mine to RWD when I do the manual conv.

Thanks mate.

Christian

SK,  

Where is the Attessa ecu in the Stage? Also, by "pulling the plug" and removing front shafts (how i dyno'ed my GTR) is it known if this will effect the car over time? wear/tear/damage etc? I'd like to convert mine to RWD when I do the manual conv.

Thanks mate.

Christian

hey prank the attessa ecu is behind the passenger side rear quarter panel above the rear wheel, its a bitch of a thing to get to and requires removal of rear trims and shit, which are all on clips soo be careful, dont wanna snap any of em :uh-huh: mines in rwd only by totally removing the attessa hydraulic line from rear of box and putting a stop on it, which stops pressure in the transfer case and therefore shouldnt be causing any damage (i hope) :confused:

sk would know more..

cheers

Brad

Did you remove your front shafts too?

Thanks for the info too.

Christian

front driveshafts and front tailshaft are both still on, but the attessa clutches have no hydraulic pressure to activate front wheels so its impossible for them to work.. ive done plenty of burnouts in 2wd and donuts, so i know its 2wd for sure :uh-huh:

hmmm, very interesting, so switching to RWD may be as simple as blocking that hydraulic line from the rear of the ecu???

Thanks heaps for the info

Christian

the hydraulic line comes off the very rear of the gearbox (well transfercase) if u check under your auto is exactly the same and its a huge thick line which runs to pump above rear diff. the attessa clutches are pressed exactly like a clutch setup, with the fluid pushing a piston in the rear of the transfercase, which pivots a arm in the box to squeeze the clutch packs together activating 4wd... the only ecu involvement is deciding when to turn pump on and off and to activate the active lsd which is very similair style diff setup with clutches inside and done with same fluid.

hopefully thats right... cheers

Brad

ok, so do i block it from above the diff? or from the ecu?

Thanks man, so clueless with this stuff.

Christian

no worries mate i didnt have a clue until we pulled the entire transfer case to bits to check the clutches and then we realised how simple it worked, and to block it off we undid the line off the rear of the transfer case and i have a spare plunger thing from the auto tranfer case so we screwed it into that instead and then made a bracket over the top of the plunger so it couldnt push at all and we just wired it up under the car for ther moment until we sort out y its staying in constant 4wd with it hooked up... im really chasin a stagea wiring diagram for the attessa system has anyone online got one????

cheers

Brad

Hi all,

I'm only new to the forum, & looking @ buying a stagea at the end of the year.

Would it be possible to fit a electrical valve in the line so you could have 2wd at the flick of a switch, of is there to little room under there?

Hi all,

I'm only new to the forum, & looking @ buying a stagea at the end of the year.

Would it be possible to fit a electrical valve in the line so you could have 2wd at the flick of a switch, of is there to little room under there?

nope because they fluid builds up pressure in the line and pushes the pin in the transfer case to activate 4wd and then u try and block the hydraulic line will still mean there is pressure on the transfer case, it needs a hydraulic switch but needs to bleed itself when activating 2wd to release the pressure as sk mentioned above that happens on 33 and 34 gtr's.

hope that helps

Brad

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Gday, Due to not finding much up to date info on this topic I thought I'd make a thread to get peoples latest opinions/recommendations. Background info -  I've got a S1.5 R33 GTST as a fun project car, mainly for street use and occasional drag strip, apart from all the cosmetic things I'll be doing a full rebuild of the engine with forged internals. Since it'll be getting new cams (kelford) and springs to match I thought I might as well get new lifters and valves while I'm at it, the dash says 160k KMs but the engine seems pretty tired, compression measures about 130psi across all cylinders so I'd like to freshen everything up. This is where I'm tempted to just fork out the extra and go solid lifters while it's all apart, aiming for 400-450kw atw with a flex tune. Assuming all supporting mods (oiling, fuel and all bolt ons) with a lightly ported head and turbo to match (yet to make a decision possibly gtx3582r or similar from Hypergear) I've seen the Tomei kits with just the buckets getting around, Supertech sells most things - Supertech High Performance Cam Followers | Trusted Racing Cam Followers Questions -  Has anyone found the Hydraulic lifters to limit them at this power level? Is it usually found that you can just clean the stock lifters and find they work fine?  Does going solid lifters save any headaches/issues with hydraulic lifters in the future? Any recommendations on other things that will need to be replaced, I know I'll need to get the solid profile cams but can you use the same type of valves and springs/retainers and is it recommended to change the guides and stem seals?    Summary -  Basically looking for pros/cons and wanna know if I'll actually need the extra RPMs from solid lifters or it'll just be bragging rights to say it ReVs OvEr 8000 Cheers
    • Ha ha ha, this stuff they had was installing Toshiba PLCs that were made some time in the 1990s, and they were replacing GEM80 PLCs. To let those two talk (staged upgrade along a ~1.2km long building that was split into 4 sections), was a bunch of WinXP machines running Java gateways... There was no way to put something like ProfiSafe in... Most of the HMI machines were WinXP, with Java program, with a custom button board emulating a keyboard... About the only buttons in the operator stations that went direct to the PLCs was the eStop. There was some interesting design stuff in that place...
    • Stock bypass valves are good for plenty of boost.
    • Check for fuel flow out of the outlet end of the rail. Check for spark. Try to start with aerostart (or pressure can brake cleaner or similar solvent in a car) prayed in through TB. If you have fuel and you have spark and it will fire on substitute fuel, then seriously suspect that E85 sitting for ages in your fuel system has destroyed something and put it in your injectors.
    • Nissan stock oil pressure is typically about 1 bar at 1000 rpm plus about 1 bar per thousand revs on top.
×
×
  • Create New...