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changing from awd to rwd

AlexCim
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AlexCim Grand Master

AlexCim

Posted
Posted

Just as reference

http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/t...rod%2fprod2.htm

http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/t...rod%2fprod2.htm

Anyway,

i read somewhere about just pulling a plug or something, but i just want to think about this in a single thread.

I want to know if anyone has any evidence for HOW it could possibly damage the car, i mean, if there is a controller made for this kinda change im sure that company wouldnt want to hold that much responsibility. Also, someone mentioned the r32, hasnt teh atessa system basically stayed the same.

Reason i ask, when i get a stagea(hopefully in a few weeks now) i am going to want to slide it (yes, LSD, coilovers etc would be bought) and i dont really wannt eat gear boxes.

Also, what about after a manual conversion, or an S, anyone know the effects.

Yeh, so, basically just looking to make a single thread on the idea. Cheers peoples

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Brazen Experienced

Brazen

Posted
Posted

Yeah theres a couple of RWD Stagea series 2 up in Queensland - Motorman Imports I think (they want a bit much for them though I reckon) - get one of them for drifting - then u dont have all the 4WD weight to the car either. Or even better I am sure you could even find a manual RWD Stagea in Japan and bring it over. Drifting a skyline... gonna be a sight to see - take some photos :wassup:

But if youve already got an auto RSFour lined up - then theres heaps of technical stuff in the non-Stagea threads about disabling the front wheel drive and arguments over potential damage - do a search :)

:D

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

R32GTR's do not retain hydraulic pressure in the ATTESSA system when the fuse is removed. R33/34GTR's do have residual pressure, so you can't just pull the fuse (or turn it off with a switch). Stage S1 is the basically same ATTESSA system as R33 and Stagea S2 is the same as R34. So you can't just pull the fuse (or turn it off with a switch).

This is one reason why R32GTR's tolerate a larger rear end slip angle (oversteer) then R33/34. Since there is residual pressure, the response time for 4wd is much reduced.

I can speak from 4wd dyno experience, the only way to ensure 100% 2wd from a Stagea at all times is to remove the front driveshaft.

:D

PranK Grand Master

PranK

Posted
Posted

SK,

Where is the Attessa ecu in the Stage? Also, by "pulling the plug" and removing front shafts (how i dyno'ed my GTR) is it known if this will effect the car over time? wear/tear/damage etc? I'd like to convert mine to RWD when I do the manual conv.

Thanks mate.

Christian

StageZilla Rising Star

StageZilla

Posted
Posted
SK,  

Where is the Attessa ecu in the Stage? Also, by "pulling the plug" and removing front shafts (how i dyno'ed my GTR) is it known if this will effect the car over time? wear/tear/damage etc? I'd like to convert mine to RWD when I do the manual conv.

Thanks mate.

Christian

hey prank the attessa ecu is behind the passenger side rear quarter panel above the rear wheel, its a bitch of a thing to get to and requires removal of rear trims and shit, which are all on clips soo be careful, dont wanna snap any of em :uh-huh: mines in rwd only by totally removing the attessa hydraulic line from rear of box and putting a stop on it, which stops pressure in the transfer case and therefore shouldnt be causing any damage (i hope) :confused:

sk would know more..

cheers

Brad

StageZilla Rising Star

StageZilla

Posted
Posted
Did you remove your front shafts too?

Thanks for the info too.

Christian

front driveshafts and front tailshaft are both still on, but the attessa clutches have no hydraulic pressure to activate front wheels so its impossible for them to work.. ive done plenty of burnouts in 2wd and donuts, so i know its 2wd for sure :uh-huh:

StageZilla Rising Star

StageZilla

Posted
Posted
hmmm, very interesting, so switching to RWD may be as simple as blocking that hydraulic line from the rear of the ecu???

Thanks heaps for the info

Christian

the hydraulic line comes off the very rear of the gearbox (well transfercase) if u check under your auto is exactly the same and its a huge thick line which runs to pump above rear diff. the attessa clutches are pressed exactly like a clutch setup, with the fluid pushing a piston in the rear of the transfercase, which pivots a arm in the box to squeeze the clutch packs together activating 4wd... the only ecu involvement is deciding when to turn pump on and off and to activate the active lsd which is very similair style diff setup with clutches inside and done with same fluid.

hopefully thats right... cheers

Brad

StageZilla Rising Star

StageZilla

Posted
Posted
ok, so do i block it from above the diff? or from the ecu?

Thanks man, so clueless with this stuff.

Christian

no worries mate i didnt have a clue until we pulled the entire transfer case to bits to check the clutches and then we realised how simple it worked, and to block it off we undid the line off the rear of the transfer case and i have a spare plunger thing from the auto tranfer case so we screwed it into that instead and then made a bracket over the top of the plunger so it couldnt push at all and we just wired it up under the car for ther moment until we sort out y its staying in constant 4wd with it hooked up... im really chasin a stagea wiring diagram for the attessa system has anyone online got one????

cheers

Brad

Techo Collaborator

Techo

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

I'm only new to the forum, & looking @ buying a stagea at the end of the year.

Would it be possible to fit a electrical valve in the line so you could have 2wd at the flick of a switch, of is there to little room under there?

StageZilla Rising Star

StageZilla

Posted
Posted
Hi all,

I'm only new to the forum, & looking @ buying a stagea at the end of the year.

Would it be possible to fit a electrical valve in the line so you could have 2wd at the flick of a switch, of is there to little room under there?

nope because they fluid builds up pressure in the line and pushes the pin in the transfer case to activate 4wd and then u try and block the hydraulic line will still mean there is pressure on the transfer case, it needs a hydraulic switch but needs to bleed itself when activating 2wd to release the pressure as sk mentioned above that happens on 33 and 34 gtr's.

hope that helps

Brad

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