Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looking to try and find a reason for not putting the power fc into the car, I have so far found a lot of reasons to put it in but as yet have not heard of anyone say anything negitive about them... I know this is a weird thing to be asking but would really like to hear from people if they are unhappy with the unit ie: if it had cold start problems ect..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75099-power-fc-in-a-r33/
Share on other sites

Other then the wallet being a little lighter, it would be the best investment for your engine.

It's hard to come up with a reason not to get it, unless of course you own a Auto and then the power FC want work well with the auto ecu.

thing is, there are no real problems at all.

You have to ask yourself...

If there were problems, why are soo many people wouldnt be using them?

It doesnt have as many options as a $3000-$5000 ECU, but for $1100 or so delivered... cant go wrong

I have been down the modifying route before with my previous car and modding a car is a lot fun and very satisfying, so I am looking at doing it all again but with a better base - R33

the reason for me asking this is that my previous car was the first car that was fitted with the Greddy E Manage and due to it being a new type of air fuel computor no one new how to wire it into the car then the next job was to try and find someone that could tune it but it got done and it did take several weeks due to having to get various injector harnessess and the program which had to be translated from Japanesse to english and then it was discovered that we needed a cable to go from the laptop to the GReddy... I could go on about all the things that went wrong and all the things that had to be changed so that the car would run like a factory car but with all the benifits of a modded car - speed :rofl:

I was just so surprised as to the pricing of it to be so reasonable compared to other full computors such as the Motec - Wolf 3D - and others and just figured that you get what you pay for but I am not fond of paying for stuff that I don't need or won't use either

I have however just finished reading an article about the PFC and that you don't need the hand controller to do the tuning and that the people that will do the tuning can do it via a laptop which will give a better tune now I just need to find a place that can do it this way

it wont give it a "better" tune at all.

Everything can be done with the H/C

You have to pay extra $$$ if you want the datalogit software, a few more options but certainly not a better tune as such.

The odd place will have it... But most places wont as above ^^ the H/C does it fine.

These days, when you buy a PFC, it actually comes as a complete package... so you get the H/C no matter what :rofl: (thats included in the $1100 i said before)

I don't own one but I have looked into them a bit, By all accounts you can do a good job of tuning the car with them but they are lacking a few more advance features that would be good, such as: (please correct me if I'm wrong)

- No onboard datalogging

- you have to pay extra (a lot extra) for the laptop / PC program for tuning and datalogging

- No map sensor,

- No traction control

- no auxillery power relay which can be triggered by various engine parameters such as RPM, inj duty etc. (these are usually used for water spray, NOS systems etc)

- The fuel map resolution is not real good.

But like was said in an eairler post for $1100 they are great value and will just about everything you need to do in a street car.

If you want features buy the Motec M800 they are brilliant bits of gear, they will everything you could dream of. Most (all?) of te V8 teams use the M800. I have had a bit of experence with the M4 pro and even those units are excellent - prob is they are definatly not plug and play units (like the PFC) and you pay throught the nose for them.

Ok.... so it won't look after the MAP sensor... I would imagine that would have an effect the way the car idles which could be sligthly higher than factory then? I have also noticed that people are changing there AFM to the Z32 why is this is the current stock one not adequate for tuning...

Not having traction control which I am now starting to get very fond of (due to heavy right foot) could make life interesting....

Maybe the SAFCII/GReddy might be a better option after all as I am really just after better fuel economy due to the car running very rich.... and would like to keep most options on the car.... except the speed limiter

http://members.dodo.com.au/paul/docs/power...powerfc-faq.htm covers a lot of the questions you guys have asked. also nothing majorly wrong with using airflow meter. youll get overall better idle and tuneable support instead of using a map sensor. just need to upgrade the calibration of the afm as you move up with power. sorry im not trying to be a know-all im certaintly far from it just some of the not so technical guys may be wondering what exactly you do and do get with the powerfc, a lot of it is covered in the faq. of course if any of its wrong let me know and ill correct it

I actually tried the site you mentioned before posting this question up but was unable to get the site for some reason... but you are right I certainly don't know anything when it comes to turbos ect... ask me questions about my previous car and that is a different thing altoghter ;))

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I like mine. Much better than stock. Like i said before the reverse/parking cameras look even worse than normal, still useable. When you buy one make sure it's the latest version. Heaps of cheap ones that run the old hardware and software. Got mine from AliExpress. Mine is quick no lag, boots up 1-2 sec. Menu is fast. Netflix is fine and so is YouTube. Android Auto is random taking 3sec to 15sec. Most of the time it's quick. Very rare it doesn't connect. But that could be a phone thing.   Now I think they use a Pixel 3XL to run this whole thing which i guess is fine, but the problem is that some apps will not work on old hardware like Disney Plus  Maybe Prime Video too 🤔. they will not update. Iv'e tried getting the APK Disney + but i still couldn't get it working. I have a Data sim installed so i have internet all the time. You can't Hotspot off your phone and connect Android Auto at the same time. Not that you need too, if you want you can hotspot off your phone and run any internet map app (google maps) and you can run the Spotify app on it's own (the app runs better than android auto) You can still access the INFINITI intouch system for all the o.g stuff    P.S i got new non Polarization Sunglasses too 😎 
    • I also don't mean to rain on your parade. But with a 5-10k budget for road only? I'd want to check confirmation that everything IS working correctly and I'm with @GTSBoy for a plan of action here. I'd be checking subframes, bushes, exhaust hangers, interior bits and generally QOL things and CONFIRMING they are working right before thinking about motor. You can get 250KW+ on stock RB26 hardware by simply removing the built in restrictors and tuning the stock ECU. If you want purity that's as far to take it, which I would be worried to do and won't think the budget would allow for when earnestly checking for 30+ year old car stuff.
    • I specifically said buy new performance car because of the use case here (i.e, no track use and fun livable everything/do it all easily if not especially amazing as a drivers car). Tracking an 80K Skyline and an 80K M2 makes the BMW the obviously more risky purchase WHEN something goes wrong you suddenly can't easily fix it with hand tools and readily available parts that you may have a community of people you know available, or years of your own knowledge on the platform to apply. There's reasons you see Hondas and Vettes and RB's and Miatas and such at tracks, you can easily hand-tool repair 99.9% of it in a shed, usually with the tools and the skillset of the owner to apply to it. An i30N is not going to beat a R chassis unless it's got massive problems either. The old cars can, and still do work great. The problem is - and always has been - social media would have you believe it's simple and easy to achieve the results you see online.  People want their car to be like "one of those cool JDM cars" which is the default image people have when they think of  "cool JDM cars" You are paying 25 years of catchup R&D to achieve. Or the knowledge somebody else has to do it for you, which is big dollar restomod stuff.  The bar has been moved and every R chassis that people see/like/enjoy has 25 years of R&D thrown at it, or is owned by someone who did all that work and has that knowledge over the past 25 years. All the survivors have been progressively resto-modded the entire time. OR you slowly bring it back to how it was stock. Which is also prohibitively expensive, done for the love of it. This is what the JDM community is now. This is fine, but "Where do I start?" is either: 1) Don't 2) Take your own slow journey but you cannot compare your progress with others who have had 25 years of R&D and experience building their own cars unless you pay for it.
    • Yep, with the crazy inflation of the value of our cars these past couple of years this became a problem for me too... My solution is to transition to bikes. Everything feels so cheap compared to tracking the skyline lol
    • So, I've been a little busy on this car. I replaced the bonnet struts which is always satisfying but very confusing that nobody else on the planet seems to do this. Its just my routine first thing I do on any car I buy. The boot struts for both the tailgate and the separately opening glass window was a bastard. And, I found a fair bit of rust in the strut cavity. I filled it with rust converter and cleaned up as much of the dirt as I could. There was so much dirt. One piece of the trim was barely hanging on and so I've left it off. I'll try to get a replacement. You can see how disgusting and dirty it all was in this thread; I had to remove the little clips that hold the struts on the ball. The ones I took off had no clips and it was impossible to get them on with them in place. Fingers crossed they stay put. So, I turned my attention to the headlights, they were in a bad way and likely would stop rego. I took the headlights out and found the adjusters were all just loose. So, I fixed those and unclipped the lenses to clean them up. Couldn't believe how easy it was to take all this apart compared to the E90.   I also cleaned up the stockies which was awesome, these are super cool with lug nut covers. They're in good nic but the tyres are shot. I was going to use these for rego but in the end got a fresh pair of rubber for the 17's on the front of the car instead. The front bar of this car is from a late(r) model one. I don't think it's quite LCI but who knows. I'll need to find out. Anyway, the bar was missing the fog lights and the wiring and plugs were for the original ones so I got new plugs and some cheap fogs. I wasn't sure if missing original equipment would hamper my blue slip attempts. Had a couple of these little fellas helping out. But not Ben who got stuck behind the pool heater .... How embarressment.  I ordered new speed sensors for all corners because I knew one was out. I just got cheapies and will replace them with Bosch items when I can find Bosch items. Again, this was just for rego. Alas, it seems the blue speed sensors are not the same as the grey ones. Back they went and replacements ordered. In the end, with my new scan tool, it was just rear left that was shot. Replaced it and cleared the codes. All good now. Lastly, my aux (thermo) fan is being a bit odd. Its powering up at strange times and NOT powering up when I think it should (100C). While this can be caused by a few things, the most likely (for me) is the ambient temp sensor. Given mine reads -40.0C regardless of the temp, I figured it would be good to replace it. In the end, the sensor wiring was abysmal with (terrible) attempts made by somebody to fix it.   I fixed this all up but the sensor is only attached using pins into the wires. The plug is not there. Despite trying and trying to connect it securely it wouldn't work so a replacement sensor and plug is on the way. Oh, I also ordered a replacement piece of trim for the part missing here at the bottom. Ordered from Latvia for $70 delivered. I took a bit of a leap of faith because I didn't have the exact part number and, as usual, there were eleventy billion pieces of trim that looked to fit. Nailed it. Well, its not totally perfect but I think its more a 28 y/o car problem than a trim problem. And, as of today ..... I have bought the workshop manuals 2nd hand off a guy in tassie. 1000+ pages of E39 goodness, hopefully it helps me with the fan. I also have a new temp switch on the way incase its the problem. Stoked.
×
×
  • Create New...