Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Looking at selling my R34. Below are some specs and some pictures.

Car: 1998 R34 25GT

Engine: RB25DET NEO Straight 6 (28,000kms)

Modifications

Performance:

RB25DET NEO Conversion

HKS Type S FMIC

HKS Super Dragger 3.25" Cat back exhaust

HKS Pod

Audio:

Alpine CDA-9833 headunit

Alpine MRD-501 V12 amp

2 x 12" Alpine Type R subs in enclosure

Exterior:

17" alloy rims, brand new tyres front, 65% rear

This car is extremely clean and has never been boosted. Car was bought by me 18 months ago and has been garaged ever since. Car was serviced when engine transplant was undertaken, and is about due for another one. This will be completed before sale. Rego is due in October

Looking for $34,000 ono. 3" hi-flow cat will also be included, as well as HKS turbo timer, and HKS SSQV BOV which are yet to be installed. I believe this is a great price for what this car is, and would make a great base for further modification.

I am located in Coffs Harbour, however, should enough interest be available in Brisbane will consider driving up there should insterested parties want a test drive.

Please note: the pictures below are pre-intercooler/turbo install. New pictures with intercooler/turbo engine will be up once I have my camera fixed.

Any questions, please ask.

Cheers,

Brett

  boj01 said:
Does it still have N/A Brake setup?

Yes, however, my understanding is that there is no difference between the two models. The current setup is more than capable trust me!!

  FILO34 said:
so this is now the RB25DET?

with all mods installed and ready to go?

new pics yet?

Yes it now has the NEO RB25DET. All mods are installed outside of the turbo timer, HKS BOV (yet to receive it from a group buy here), and the 3"cat.

Pics will be up ASAP.

Brett

  I Like Drift said:
"Looking to upgrade. I have my eye on something with a little more potential"

what is it, an '84 colt?

With all due respect, I am trying to sell my car here and stupid comments like that are not helping.

Answers to some commonly asked questions:

1. It is a 5 speed manual

2. No, I have not turbocharged the NA engine. A full RB25DET NEO was transplanted in from a Stagea.

3. Yes a swap may be considered. Mainly looking for a late-ish model WRX or R33 GTR. Cash adjustment may be required depending on model and condition.

Thanks,

Brett

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Gday, Due to not finding much up to date info on this topic I thought I'd make a thread to get peoples latest opinions/recommendations. Background info -  I've got a S1.5 R33 GTST as a fun project car, mainly for street use and occasional drag strip, apart from all the cosmetic things I'll be doing a full rebuild of the engine with forged internals. Since it'll be getting new cams (kelford) and springs to match I thought I might as well get new lifters and valves while I'm at it, the dash says 160k KMs but the engine seems pretty tired, compression measures about 130psi across all cylinders so I'd like to freshen everything up. This is where I'm tempted to just fork out the extra and go solid lifters while it's all apart, aiming for 400-450kw atw with a flex tune. Assuming all supporting mods (oiling, fuel and all bolt ons) with a lightly ported head and turbo to match (yet to make a decision possibly gtx3582r or similar from Hypergear) I've seen the Tomei kits with just the buckets getting around, Supertech sells most things - Supertech High Performance Cam Followers | Trusted Racing Cam Followers Questions -  Has anyone found the Hydraulic lifters to limit them at this power level? Is it usually found that you can just clean the stock lifters and find they work fine?  Does going solid lifters save any headaches/issues with hydraulic lifters in the future? Any recommendations on other things that will need to be replaced, I know I'll need to get the solid profile cams but can you use the same type of valves and springs/retainers and is it recommended to change the guides and stem seals?    Summary -  Basically looking for pros/cons and wanna know if I'll actually need the extra RPMs from solid lifters or it'll just be bragging rights to say it ReVs OvEr 8000 Cheers
    • Ha ha ha, this stuff they had was installing Toshiba PLCs that were made some time in the 1990s, and they were replacing GEM80 PLCs. To let those two talk (staged upgrade along a ~1.2km long building that was split into 4 sections), was a bunch of WinXP machines running Java gateways... There was no way to put something like ProfiSafe in... Most of the HMI machines were WinXP, with Java program, with a custom button board emulating a keyboard... About the only buttons in the operator stations that went direct to the PLCs was the eStop. There was some interesting design stuff in that place...
    • Stock bypass valves are good for plenty of boost.
    • Check for fuel flow out of the outlet end of the rail. Check for spark. Try to start with aerostart (or pressure can brake cleaner or similar solvent in a car) prayed in through TB. If you have fuel and you have spark and it will fire on substitute fuel, then seriously suspect that E85 sitting for ages in your fuel system has destroyed something and put it in your injectors.
    • Nissan stock oil pressure is typically about 1 bar at 1000 rpm plus about 1 bar per thousand revs on top.
×
×
  • Create New...