Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had platnum's in the car, when i ran 14psi through an rb25 turbo i found that it would blow out the spark. So i got some copper plugs at 0.8mm gap and it works a charm. You could spend big bickies on the iridiums and platnums but the coppers work well for me and cost be $17 for all 6.

i use the spitfire Vs' in both my cars, one turbo one N/A, they have platinum tips with a V pattern. in the rb20 i run 10psi on a standard turbo but soon i'll see how they go with a rb25 turbo at 14psi.... about $13 each as well.

Very interesting sky30. Im using the bcpr6es at the moment, with a 0.6 gap and its still missfiring badly (19-20psi, 300rwhp). Going to check the coil packs but wouldnt mind trying the bcp6es if that fixed the problem in yours. Would you mind passing on any more details on your setup ?

Thanks

So what does the 'S" designate? I had the BCPR6ES and also had misfire problems and then they were changed for BCP6E which stopped the misfire.

I asked about the R which I was told was a resistor to stop interference from stereos or something but dont know what the S stands for. I double checked and they are definatelty BCP6E.

DCIEVE:- I would try the BCP6ES non resistor plugs before anything else, i gap mine at .7mm for 20 PSI in my R32 making 306rwKW, no misfiring.

BCP6ES are just standard RB30/VL ones.. they are like $10 a packet.. lol

Don't you need the resistor type as to not interefere with the other engine electrics? that is what I was told anyhow. Not sure if its correct or not?

I use BCPR6ES-8 for normal use, maybe BCPR7ES-8 for sustained high speed or track use;

B: Indicates 14mm thread diameter in the cylinder head.

C: Hex size 5/8"

P: Projected insulator type

R: Resistor type

1-9: Indicates temperature (1 Hottest - 9 coldest)

E: Indicates 19mm thread reach (approx 3/4")

S: Standard (copper) 2.6mmø center electrode

-8: Gap 0.8mm (0.032")

If you can't get -8 then you will have to adjust the gap to 0.8 mm before you fit the plugs.;)

Sk what is your opinion on the non resistor typre plugs preventing missfire?

SKY30, what motor is in your 32?

Going to swap the plugs (again) for the non resistor type tomorrow.  Will let ya's know if works

The ceramic resister (usually ~5K ohms) is there to suppress the electronic interference from the ignition during sparking. Crackle n the stereo is the most obvious result, although I have seen the ECU and instruments interfered with by the noise generated from using non resistor plugs in a car designed for resistor plugs.

From the NGK tech journal

"NGK strongly recommends using resistor spark plugs in any vehicle that uses on-board computer systems to monitor or control engine performance. This is because resistor spark plugs reduce electromagnetic interference with on-board electronics.

They are also recommended on any vehicle that has other on-board electronic systems such as engine-management computers, two-way radios, GPS systems, depth finders or whenever recommended by the manufacturer.

In fact, using a non-resistor plug in certain applications can actually cause the engine to suffer undesirable side effects such as an erratic idle, high-rpm misfire, engine run-on, power drop off at certain rpm levels and abnormal combustion."

The botttom line, I would never use non resistor spark plugs in my Skyline:cheers:

  • 1 month later...

ok i dont know what to go on but what would be the best for my rb20det, it will be running 19psi, has high flowed turbs, hks front mount, 3.5inch exhaust, cai, bosch 040, gtr injectors, splitfire coilpacks, tomei poncams.

i want to know what are the best ones not value for money

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...