Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

These aren't the biggest turbo in terms of HP. I think they are rated at 320ps.

The advantage is they are ball bearing which means the RB25 will spool this very early.

With supporting mods you could probably pump out around 220rwkw. Though if you're going to the trouble of replacing the turbo you'll be asking yourself why you didn't pay the extra $500 and get something a little bigger.

Expect to pay upwards of $1200 ~ for a good condition example. Check to make sure if it comes with oil / water lines as this will set you back $100 or so plus intake modifications.

You don't need two threads to ask the same question.

If it's a turbo question then it's pretty obviously going to go in the Forced Induction section.

Also there is a shitload of info on here about this turbo and how it goes on an RB25. It's an old turbo.

A 2535 would be better suited to an RB25 but don't underestimate what a street weapon a 2530 RB25 will be. The first question that should be asked when upgrading turbo is what do you want to do with the car?

A 2540 is not often recommended.

Check out http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=55845

and do some more reading.

Oh, and have fun. ;)

Like everyone has stated, ask yourself what you're after in your car. If you're after big horsepower, don't go this turbo. I have a 2535 on mine and in my opinion, it's heaven on a stick. An RB25 with a 25XX turbo is going to give you a very quick response, with good power but don't expect to see the rwkw mark exceed much more than 250rwkw with a 25 series turbo. A 2530 would be lucky to even get there with 220rwkw about it's theoretical max. I currently make 220rwkw on just 12psi with my 2535, which is rated just a bit higher than the 2530.

For $1200, you can't go wrong if all you are chasing is around 200-220rwkw and a very responsive street car. As others have said, don't underestimate this turbo as it will certainly give your car a kick in the arse that will have you smiling every time ;) Best of luck mate.

With supporting mods the 450hp GCG rebuild wud go close, maybe 250-260rwkw is more likely though. Mind you its still damn responsive which is awsome, when you go past 250rwkw you tend to get abit more lag and that isnt the best on a street car.

Gotta say 16psi at 3,000rpm is pretty damn cool!! And if ur makin near on 300rwhp, well most would be pretty happy with that too.

if your chasing say 270rwkws what turbo is suitable. Ive read all the related threads posted by other members but got lost in the information. For examples sake, would a GCG turbo be capable?

seach button, and half the stickie threads in this section will answer that question for yous

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And no, this was not posted on April fools. https://www.theautopian.com/bmw-wants-you-to-drive-with-an-air-compressor-attached-to-your-wheel/ What happens when it's not attached properly and flies off into somebody's head?    
    • https://sci-hub.se/https://doi.org/10.4271/2005-01-3825 Heat causes positive pressure in the tank, a slight vacuum in the tank is normally caused by evap purge during normal driving. If the tank is cooled it can also cause a vacuum that pulls air into the system. The linked paper is quite interesting to learn the state of the art for evap fuel control, modern systems the tank is 100% sealed and the tank is reinforced to handle higher than normal pressure/vacuum. It only opens the vent/charcoal canister when you press the button to open the refuel door or when the engine is running. After some reading of systems like the W220 S-Class there's a check valve on the tank vent, but the primary reason it's there is because otherwise the intake manifold would be pulling vacuum on the tank: https://w220.wiki/EVAP_system   There might be limited vacuum relief via the charcoal canister, but I don't know how sensitive the check valve is. 
    • me too wasnt real happy and cost me a penny or 2 to replace
    • But there's the archetype for the name plate! Here's my view on that stupid TÜV ruleset. Buy a brand name aftermarket piece of equipment. In this case, the Mines front pipe we're talking about. Get it TÜV certified on the car. Damage the underside of it, say on a speed bump. Cut out the damaged section, replace with fresh metal. (For the sake of the argument only), continue doing that to the whole pipe until it is all gone, replaced with new metal. Is this grandfather's axe still the same front pipe? The design hasn't changed (much). The pipe walls are in the same places. The flanges are in the same places. It is functionally identical. How does this differ from a pipe that is ever so slightly different in fabrication (ie the number of welds in it, a few mm here and there in terms of where the pipes run, are joined, etc)? Anyone with 0.5% of a brain can see that there is absolutely no way that the performance (power, environmental aspects, noise, etc etc) of it can be any different than the genuine Mines pipe. Maybe even Mines made 2 versions of this design, with the same differences. How would anyone (say a TÜV inspector) ever be able to differentiate between them? And yet, they are so bloody anally retentive about this stuff. Mad. How upset would they be if you had the wrong spring washers on the flanges?
×
×
  • Create New...