Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

afaik

Factory specs are 135-185 psi per cylinder and each cylinder being around 120 with an ~<5psi variance is decent for a >100,000km car.

Just means your car isn't in top condition, someone's had fun in it :D but it should be alright for a while (That's assuming my factory spec figures are correct)

i got mine checked it come out with all in the 120's but there all around them same  

broke that checked it said it was all good but that seems low to me is it ok

ingnore the other comments, outirght compression figures are not very relevant, as things such as how warm the engine is and battery voltage affect the outright figure.

what is important is that all figures are even, as it is unlikely that all cylinders have the same damage (if any).

usually a bad result would be say 5 cylinders having similar compression (within 3 or 4psi) and one cylinder (usually cylinder 6) having compression which is 25psi different.

as long as the figures are within about 3% from max to minimum its fine. so basically from what u explained the motor should be fine. if u really want to be sure do a leakdown test but that is usually only done if compression test turns out bad.

Knore's comment is sort of correct as most cars show compression around 155psi

they all got ok they got

1 124

2 125

3 125

4 123

5 124

6 125

is there a way to higher then compression

also i hear low compress means more lag

the tune is ****ed on the car so they r retuning the link computer the day i buy it they said thats y it is laggy and shit

they all got ok they got  

1  124

2 125

3 125

4 123

5 124

6 125

is there a way to higher then compression  

also i hear low compress means more lag  

the tune is ****ed on the car so they r retuning the link computer the day i buy it they said thats y it is laggy and shit

those compression figures are fine.

also the compression u are reffering to when u say it means more lag is something u cannot change. what u are reffering to is the compression ratio, ie. the relationship between the volume of air in the cylinder when the piston is at the bottom of its stroke compared to when its at the top.

u can make it less laggy with good tuning, although with a stock turbo it shouldnt be laggy either way.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 1. I can't see a location on your profile but you do mention GBP so I'll assume you are in UK. In Australia, CBC make a timing belt kit with the gears and idler and tension bearing and that is what I use without any problems. I'm sure OEM or HKS are also fine but I wouldn't pay extra for HKS over anything else. 2. Yes, I would always change the idler and tensioner and the stud and bolt that hold them in. Assuming they were all done last time it is highly unlikely you would have a problem, but they are very cheap to add to the job considering the time it will take anyway.  3. No, you don't need to lock them as such (I think that is more for engines without timing marks), but you should make sure they move as little as possible once the belt is off as you can hit pistons on valves if they move too far. As always, make sure you line it all up to top dead centre with the timing marks aligned before you take the old belt off.
    • How to wreak havoc at a bogans party... Swap out the goon bag hanging from the clothes line with oil bag... Watch chaos ensue during Goon of Fortune....
    • Hey everyone,   I’m looking for some advice on replacing the timing belt on my RB25DET Neo-powered 1998 Skyline. The engine was fully built about five years ago, including a fresh timing belt, water pump, and other essentials. However, since then, the car has only covered around 2,000–3,000 miles. It’s currently making around 650hp.   Even though the mileage is low, I know timing belts have a time-based lifespan too, and most recommendations suggest changing them every five to six years or 50,000 miles. Since I’m at that time mark, I’d rather not take any risks and plan to swap it out soon.   A few things I’d like to hear opinions on: 1. What’s the best belt for this setup? Should I go with an OEM Nissan belt, or is the HKS fine-tune a better choice given the power level? 2. Would you bother replacing the idler pulley and tensioner at the same time, or only if they show wear? 3. When swapping the belt, is it necessary to lock the cam and crank gears in place, or is lining up the timing marks enough? I’ve seen different approaches, and I want to make sure I do it right.   The water pump was changed with the rebuild and isn’t run off the timing belt, so I don’t see a need to replace it again. I just want to make sure I approach this the right way.   Any insight would be much appreciated. Thanks!
    • How does this compare to the internally gated g25-550 in terms of power production at same psi and spool
×
×
  • Create New...