Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I took my car to the NDSOC Drag Day at Heathcote on Saturday and the best time i could get was [email protected].

My car is a 96 r33 gtst and the only mods i have is a 3.5" HKS cat-back exhaust, custom 3" front pipe (no dump pipe), GTR Cat, GTR intercooler, K&N pod filter and a cheap bleed vavle set to 12psi. The tyres i was using was HANKOOK K104's 265/35/18 set at 37psi.

60' time = 2.1

660 time = 9.08

660 mph = 78.75

I am no expert in drag racing but i would have thought that my mph should have been higher by the end of the 1/4 mile and i should have at least cracked into the 13's. I have been thinking that maybe its my boost controller that letting my car down in top end, because im not even sure if it was hitting 12psi in 3rd and 4th gear.

Any help would be appreciated

:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75337-help-with-improving-14-times/
Share on other sites

Guest two.06l
I took my car to the NDSOC Drag Day at Heathcote on Saturday and the best time i could get was [email protected].

My car is a 96 r33 gtst and the only mods i have is a 3.5" HKS cat-back exhaust, custom 3" front pipe (no dump pipe), GTR Cat, GTR intercooler, K&N pod filter and a cheap bleed vavle set to 12psi. The tyres i was using was HANKOOK K104's 265/35/18 set at 37psi.

60' time = 2.1

660 time = 9.08

660 mph = 78.75

I am no expert in drag racing but i would have thought that my mph should have been higher by the end of the 1/4 mile and i should have at least cracked into the 13's. I have been thinking that maybe its my boost controller that letting my car down in top end, because im not even sure if it was hitting 12psi in 3rd and 4th gear.

Any help would be appreciated

:D

Cheapest and easiest performance gain is weight reduction. Get a decent electronic boost controller...i recommend Blitz dual SBC (can get you a cheap s/h one). the 35 series tyres and 37psi arent doing you any favors either.

Engine management is your friend :D I'd also be turning the boost down to 10psi and heat sheilding the pod (if its not already).

Your 60' time is good, not outstanding but good enuff. The time is very good considering the mph. Is the power smooth up top?

Get yourself a lighter set of MAGS! ;)

i've had the DTM racing blitz 18" as well on my car. and compared to stock (16"s) my 0-100 times were varying from 0.5-1 sec slower!

my car is a 96gts25t series2 as well and WHITE! hahah similar mods but more power due to bigger turbo.

Engine management is your friend :) I'd also be turning the boost down to 10psi and heat sheilding the pod (if its not already).

Your 60' time is good, not outstanding but good enuff. The time is very good considering the mph. Is the power smooth up top?

Yeh i think the power seemed pretty smooth up top, i need to put heat sheild on the pod aswell.

thanks for all ur replies, Mike

;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm firmly on the "zero compliance is good compliance" for FUCAs. I'd be looking to solid metal joints even if the primary reason for having them is because they facilitate the twist in the arm. I have never been more happy with the way the front suspension behaves than I have since I got rid of the FUCA bushes. Even the thin little (short lived) poly bushes in the Whiteline adjustables have too much compliance for my liking. It probably won't be long before I have sphericals nearly everywhere, probably including both top and bottom arms in the rear, and I'll start complaining about the increased costs for dental work. But I will be enjoying the driving more, I'm sure.
    • Plus, you'll get great experience in bedding in pads!
    • I have offset Nismo brackets so the fact the gktechs can pivot is less important to me. I have 170mm JIC arms with bushings - but they provide no adjustment and I'm not sure whiteline eccentric bushings will fit them (I don't want to ruin the bushings currently in them to find out). Ideally I want something with bushings + adjustment; hence why I'd like to find a pair of these. Unfortunately they aren't easy to find.
    • @Vee37 How much do you really care about finding these pads again? If your pads are quiet, work well and produce minimal dust, really isn't that enough? If you are set on finding the exact pads again, I suppose I'd do something like this -  Visit your local Jax, find out what brand of pads they carry. If the Jax workshop you previously went to had the pads on the shelf, then you can almost guarantee it will be of said brand.   I'm guessing you don't have the receipt for the previous work and pads. Can you visit a Jax workshop and see if they can look up your previous job to see what pads were fitted?  Still no luck? Put your stalker hat on, find the staff that used to work at the Jax store and ask them. Talk to local workshops, try to find out where the mechanics went to. Talk to Jax workshops, maybe they relocated to another workshop. When it comes to mechanics, its a small world. You'd be surprised how easy it is to track someone down. If these ideas don't work, shit will start getting crazy very quickly.... You could find out every brand and model of pad that fits that car... and try them individually ticking each off the list if it wasn't the one you were looking for.... If you go down this path your going to want to learn how to swap pads yourself, it is very easy, takes minimal tools and space. If you have room to park the car you have room to swap the pads. Plus you have the advantage of making sure all the brake hardware goes back in so they won't squeal! 
    • You miss spelled bearings...
×
×
  • Create New...