Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have been practicing my emergency braking lately after getting new pads and machined rotors and have noticed. my oil warning light will flash on for a second. Has anyone else seen this under heavy braking. I guess it is probably normal and nothing to worry about. I hope.

And yes my oil levels are correct.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75339-oil-warning-light-when-heavy-braking/
Share on other sites

Thats not good, you are getting oil surge.

What type of oil are you running and how hot is the car when you are doing this because i wouldn't expect to have problems as the oil pick up is up the front of the sump and the oil would be sloshing to the front under braking.

Do you have a bent sump by any chance?

I am running redline 10w 40 and its happening when engine is at operating temp. Its a pressure light. My sump aint bent either. Has anyone else seen or heard of this happening.

Only happening under very heavy braking and just before i come to a stand still. And only for a second.

the light that always comes up on my 32 is the funny thing with heat waves coming of it... is that engine temp or something>>?? or the oil one... cus sometimes i'll just be driving and it comes on but it flashes irregularly... then i will restart the car and it'll be alright.. just depends... Can any1 help with this?>

I wouldn't worry unless you are unemployed.....a new cat can set you back 3-400.

As for the oil pressure light coming on...I would assume that while the engine is running you would only have 2-3 litres of oil in the sump at any one time, therefore, a VERY hard brake would send this oil flying towards the front. Even though the pickup is at the front, you can still fit 2-3 litres in front of it. I would say that BHDave is correct in saying you are experiencing oil surge. It only takes a split second for it to suck a small amount of air and the pressure drops to zero for a split second after that, hence the light coming on, until regular oil pressure returns.

I seriously think you don't have anything to worry about but if you are, take it to a mech who has an oil pressure guage and get your car tested.

Oil surge is pretty simple.....all the oil in a wet sump engine like an rb comes thru the oil pick up in the sump. It is in one place usually at the deepest part.

But as the car moves around (esp under high g forces) the oil can move around so much that there is no oil for it to pick up. Result...no oil to the pump and therefore not going around your engine. eeeek.

There are a heap of techniques to deal with this in Rbs such as bigger sumps, baffles and trapdoors in the sump, restrictors in the oil line to the head, foam in the cam covers, larger oil return galleries.

Under brakes is one of the biggest g forces most cars have, and if there is low oil level yhou might get this problem. I know you said your oil levels are correct which is why I didn't mention this first.

Also could be a problem with the oil pressure sensor? Perhaps get a workshop to add an extra oil guage as a first step if you are sure oil levels are OK.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For me at least the reason why it bothers me is because it's indicative of a deeper problem. And that will nag at me forever. Especially because I have tailpipe emissions testing + evap leak testing every 2 years.
    • WELP. I went to the track, and I suppose it went okay because any time you can drive home is okay. You may notice the car is not on the circuit in this picture. It was about 35C day out in Benalla which means the track was approximately the surface of the sun, probably. Good things, car did not overheat but it _was_ warmer than when I had done track days in similar heat before, I think, I'm not sure - I can't quite remember. Coolant got to ~105 via the ECU after 20-30 minutes of belting it in said heat. Oil got up to 145C in one instance which is pretty crazy due to oil cooler. Pressures were fine. I seem to remember this not getting quite so high before the vents. More HMMMM'ing to be done. On the subject of HMMM'ing, can anyone identify the sounds in the video below, you will know which ones I mean: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uj3BkI2cbTc I included some 'normal' sound as a reference for the first minute or so. The microphone in this instance was where the license plate is. It stopped working later in the day which is why my "best example of a lap video (not produced)" had internal audio - Isn't hearable from inside the car. I don't mean the chirping of the un-bedded/badly bedded track brakes which you can only hear while braking... Thoughts, brains trust?
    • blame old mate Hawkins for that one  I remember way back in the day the japanese didn't want them either... they always assumed a race shell would be thrashed. We found a few when looking for an R34 GTR for the Whites to drive in Targa Tas back in 2002.
    • I know it's probably not going to cause any major engine issues. I just had a more generic concern that it's technically not running right (I guess this means the rpm is not sitting where it technically should be) Though the other thing is, it's that my steering wheel is shaking at 1,100 rpm at idle until it gets warm (seemed to happen after I tightened my alternator belt, will be testing the alternator soon).
    • I mean, what's the concern here? Higher fuel consumption? FWIW my idle sits at around 800rpm or so as well. And yes, it runs fine, idles fine and there are no issues as far as I can tell. I don't quite see the problem.
×
×
  • Create New...