R32 GTS-T Cooling Problems with FMIC

[Cubes]

30-40degree Heat-------------

After about 10mins of driving around at 60km's the temp guage starts to creep up towards the H, but very slowly.

On the open road (80-100km's) it doesn't seem to get as hot only running slightly over normal operation temperature.

As a note when the temp gets to just over 3/4 if i turn the motor off the water will start bubbling through the overflow bottle and can cause me to loose water.

I replaced the thermostat last night just to be safe.

Night time or morning the car won't budge from the half way operating temperature.

Is it possible that not enough air is getting to the radiator hence overheating due to the FMIC?

Or is it most likely to be the Radiator that has been flushed just isn't up to the task or is blocked again.

The radiator car did seem to have a slight bit of slime on it that was slightly brown and this was also in the water a little before I did the coolant/thermostat.

Possible head gasket? What does Chemiweld look like in water slightly brown slime?!?!? Maybe its coming loose from a previous owner?

RAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAaaaaaaaaaa...

Before I had the FMIC last summer I had the radiator flushed/rodded and twin thermo's fitted (12 inch), I could idle all day (40degree) stationary with the temp guage not moving from half.

Maybe I should grab a bigger Radiator any suggestions?

[GTS-t VSPEC]

Joel,

It definately sounds like your radiator, with insufficient water being moved around, and not likely anything to do with your FMIC. Aluminum radiators are very good, but you may need to check that you block doesn't also have clogged water galleries. There is no way that on the factory car that the temeprature should get over half way.

See'ya:burnout:

[Cubes]

How and what would be sufficient to flush the motor out to make sure that there arn't any blocked water galleries?

An Engine flush from Nulon or Wynns?

hrmm...

[Clint32]

Joel last summer when i had my front mount on during a very hot day it would start to get hot when ideling for a long time or by putting stress on the motor.

At the moment i am fitting my new turbo and a even thicker frontmount so i was worried about the cooling. I have given the block a good flush and i will replace the thermostat, the radiator had stuffed top tank so the radiator place found a slightly thicker one (about 8mm) for about 300new so i will be using that with thermo fans. I will let you know how it goes but the next step is a pwr 38mm one which costs $650 + GST at trade price so i did not want to get one of them.

[GTS-t VSPEC]

Joel,

Speak to your mechanic about flushing the block. I think there is also a test to see how much flow you have, which should be able to determine whether it is your radiator or block that need flushing.

See'ya :burnout:

[Cubes]

Thanx for your suggestions ppls.

Last night when it cooled down i took her for a blast with a flush and some Mukout Coolant flush.

I really hammered it and it didn't budge from half.

This morning same thing didn't budge from half and no bubbles in the overflow bottle when i turned the motor off. It would only bubble when she hit around 3/4 or more on the temp guage.. Hence the coolant has reached boiling point.

Lunch today. Same thing. AC on and giving it a bit of stick no overheating it did however start to creep up in between 3/4 and 1/2 while sitting at a set of traffic lights for close to 5 mins.

As soon as I hit 60km/h again it dropped back to half.

Coming home.. AC on no overheating at all where as before up flagstaff hill road it would start to climb towards the H.

Also the slimy brown in the green water, looked like old coolant that has gone off. So maybe the previous owner never changed the coolant. But I did once hear that chemiweld also has a brown slime that coats everything.

I've had the same problem (sludge and impurities) with the brakes and clutch, fluids never changed, not to mention several oil flushes to get the oil looking clear.

It seems to be getting better since i've put the rad flush in so i'm going to flush it again slap another bottle in then get the block and rad cleaned.

Still goes just as hard so there isn't any problems with the headgasket.. I hope.

I bought a dead stock car so I guess I got a previous owner that wasn't really interested in cars or looking after them.

Maybe you are better off buying a car that has been slightly modified after all. At least they enjoy and look after their car.

[Chris32]

Joel,

I am running Clints old cooler, as well as a oil cooler between the radiator/cooler and my car hasn't got above halfway even with the heat. Coolant was last changed about 12 months ago, and still looks green and new. I reckon it sounds like a problem with the radiator itself, does it leak?

Anyone have any suggestions what coolant is best?

[Doctor]

If there is still brown sludge in the radiator fluid I think it may be a small split in the head gasket, small enough to let oil in but not large enough to effect performance much.

[Cubes]

I ripped out everything last night and gave it a good clean over.

The water that was in it from the last flush a few days ago, didn't have any type of sludge in it.

I slapped a bottle of Mukout in it since the last flush also.

Cut a long story short.. I flushed everything heater back forth in through the bleed with high pressure out through the bleed radiator with high pressure back and forth and behold...

No overheating.. Mukout worked well.. And the water at the moment is crystal clear. I think that maybe the previous owner just didn't do regular coolant changes causing the coolant to go off and hard.

BUT.. She is still booked in on the 8th of Jan for a Powerflush and radiator rod/clean.

And all for $120. I think they stuffed up though but that was the price they quoted so they stuck by it.

Every one else for the same thing quoted around $180.

[Cubes]

Also.. It better not be the head gasket otherwise I will have to make a trip over to meggala's www site to find out the torque settings.

It did something strange this afternoon sitting in traffic.

It seemed start making this highish pitch squeeling as if air/water was squeeling out from some where. The temp guage was normal.

This really is driving me insane. :burnout:

[GTS-t VSPEC]

High pitched squealing? It's not your air-conditioning compressor starting to sieze, this causes the belt to stop moving and a squealing noise.

Just a suggestion, I hope it's not, cause it's a bitch not having aircon in summer.

See'ya:burnout:

[Cubes]

Nope..

I had the car turned off and it still did it.

I left then turned the thermo's on and waited for it to cool, the noise went away then I drove straight home.

[GTS-t VSPEC]

Joel,

That doesn't sound good. Sounds like a pressure buildup somewhere in the system. It might be worth doing the headgasket, just to eliminate the possibility, you don't want water in the block, cause it will get very expensive.

Try and get it checked out properly soon, don't want to damage the rest of the engine.

See'ya:burnout:

[51jay]

Have you pressure tested the radiator? If the cap is not retaining full pressure the fluid will boil at a lower Temp.

The hissing sound sounds like the pressure release in the radiator cap. Could also be water pump on it's way out so poor circulation. Worth checking before you pull the head off

[Cubes]

I found out what the squeeling noise was.

Damn Top radiator hose started squeeling but this time i could see where the noise was coming from with a fine spray of coolant.

Replaced..

All fine until the weather got hot again.

No Overheating though just bubbling through the overflow tank when driving around in carparks/heavy traffic and when it is hot.

Otherwise doing the above in the cool there is no bubbling.

I have accepted the fact that it is a head gasket.

Radiator cap off and there are really tiny bubbles swirling around.

Damn.

Do these heads crack easily? And is it visible like the VL's 3.0Ltr?

A mate at work took the head off his VLT, put it on the bench and watched the two sides roll to the opposite of each other.

:zap:

[Cubes]

Also.

She's got a new Radiator cap today and also a new waterpump a couple of months ago.

[Clint32]

Joel you are running twin 12'' thermo fans arnt you, how easy were they to fit as i need to fit something and measuring it up i dont think 12'' ones would fit, maybe 2 10'' fans or one big one.

[Cubes]

They fit perfectly.

I'll take a pic if u want.

Digital Camera

[Clint32]

yeah that would be good mate, have you just got them wired up to a switch or have you got a temp sensor.

I just want to fit some so i can make some neat cooler piping

[Cubes]

Erm... They are constantly on.

You will have to run a relay obviously with good quality thick wiring with a heavy duty fuse.

The origional one melted.

Honestly I don't like the way it has been done.

But I'll get around to changing it soon.

The automatic switch is around $50 from Rockers.