Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

You got a fair bit of power given the weight of your car. You should of taken the GT and SS not only high end but up to 100km/h as well.

I think traction / throttle control is my problem 0-100 even with 275s :) I see the car still near me so I open the throttle up more wanting it to go faster but I must still be wheel spinning, I’m concentrating too much to realise lol.

Had a clubsport trying to catch me from 50-100 the other day, I was running stock 7psi ‘not expecting to race’ & we seemed to be even ‘wish I was running 12psi :)

309.6hp = 230.87kW for ~1.3 tonne

Actually my car is supposedly 1390 kg, it was weighed when at the EPA, I'm not sure if there was someone sitting in there not when they got that figure, I assume while it was on the dyno getting tested for emissions 'which it failed 3 times lol' it was weighed.

I guess the skyline guys I talked to were right when they said that the problem with these gtsts are that there are quite a few out there with poor suspension/tyres therefore it doesn't matter how much more power they add to their car they can't launch properly. That probably explains why you do well up top when traction isn't an issue.

Are they R34 N1 turbos or R34 GTR turbos?

ok, just looked and I think the turbos say Garrett A/R T3, can't tell if its a T or a 3 tho...

Also what colour injectors?

The injector tops are a dark yellow/orange sort of colors

cheers

Tom

ok, just looked and I think the turbos say Garrett A/R T3, can't tell if its a T or a 3 tho...

The injector tops are a dark yellow/orange sort of colors

cheers

Tom

Ahh ok

If they have the A/R written on the front then they're not R34 N1 turbos unfortunately. Prolly just the 34 GTR ones.

And if they're a yellowy coloured injector top they're most probably standard.

ok, just looked and I think the turbos say Garrett A/R T3, can't tell if its a T or a 3 tho...

The injector tops are a dark yellow/orange sort of colors

cheers

Tom

Ahh ok ...

If the turbos have got an A/R rating on the front, then they aren't R34 N1 turbos.

They may well be R34 GTR items but you'd have to get them looked at.

And yellowy coloured injectors are the colour of the standard injectors

Hope that helps :rant:

My car has been dyno tuned yes... My power curve is as follows:

dyno_7.10.04.jpg  

I'd really like to know my torque.  On an old dyno sheet I had a peak of 3400 lb when I was making 292 rwhp, how you convert that into an estimated Nm I dont know!?

IT of 56deg?

someone has been playing with the figures a bit...

My car has been dyno tuned yes... My power curve is as follows:

dyno_7.10.04.jpg  

I'd really like to know my torque.  On an old dyno sheet I had a peak of 3400 lb when I was making 292 rwhp, how you convert that into an estimated Nm I dont know!?

I just did a quick search and found that 1 ft.lb = 1.356Nm

so in your case 3400lbs = 4610.4Nm :rant:

IT of 56deg?

The sensor was off yeah, there'd be a few kw in inaccuracies there. I’ll get it dyno’d again one day.

I just did a quick search and found that 1 ft.lb = 1.356Nm

so in your case 3400lbs = 4610.4Nm :rant:

LMAO Holy shit wouldnt that have some throw back!! Nar I'd guess it would have to be somewhere around 500 Nm. I'm such a yutz, I read the wrong line on my old dyno sheet, its more like around 1100.

dyno_9.9.04.jpg

LMAO Holy shit wouldnt that have some throw back!! Nar I'd guess it would have to be somewhere around 500 Nm.   I'm such a yutz, I read the wrong line on my old dyno sheet, its more like around 1100.

huh, well I must have gotten a different conversion then

TORQUE RANGE: 50600 ft.lbs./68814 Nm NBT* (Nut Busting Torque): 1000 ft.-lbs./1356

Nm Max. Torque: (Forward)-625 ft.-lbs./848 Nm; (Reverse)-700 ft.-lbs. ...

so thats aboviously wrong!, my bad :chairshot

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...