Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

there are some bits to this that are beyond me but the whole process was quite easy...

firstly what tools i needed, socket set, spanner set, hammer, rubber mallet, car stand, neddle nose plyers, WD40, screw driver, brake bleeding kit and a trolly jack..

firstly remove the wheel, i left the car sitting on a stand, i then blead the calipar then disconnected the rubber brake hose from the metal line. then i removed the calipar, next i unbolted the sway bar and the other bar next to it, next i undid the 2 bolts at the the bottom of the strut, this lets the lower section fall slowly to the ground.

you can now remove the strut and rotor no problems, i then jacked the whole lower section up to a good level working hight to remove both nuts holding the unneeded hub part on.

i then put the s-13 hub onto both the tapered bolts, finger tighten the nuts, next i put the coilover in and bolted it at the top, then i bolted the sway bar and other bar back on, then lined up the hub with the coilover, using the jack (still in the same place) i jacked up the hub part to line up the holes then slide the bolts in place, i then jacked the whole lot up and tighten the centre hub nut up.

last thing i did was lower the trolly jack and it all sat in place, the rotors, once redrilled to 4 stud, slip on and then i bolted the calipar on.

i did all this as a test as i still need to get the hub machined the match the tapered bolt on the steering arm, i need new brake lines to match the gts-t calipars and get the steering lined up straight.

lastly make shaw you have rims that will fit?? mine is sitting there without the calipars on as the 15" TRX rims just dont fit anymore.

the last 2 pics show the coilovers at the highest i could set them without a key and about 3cm from the bottom of the coilover, at the lowest setting i could'nt get the car off the trolly jack :uh-huh: :uh-huh:

costs so far:

reco'd front s-13 coilovers $690

s-13 hubs $190

front gts-t rotors/callipars $200

redrilling rotors $80

rear coilovers $200 need to be reco'd so thats another $200+

still yet to get brake lines to match the gts-t calipars to the r30 brake lines, custom bolts to fit the s-13 steering arm ends to the r30 system, new springs front and rear and new pads and a wheel alinement

put curser over the pic for more info before clicking to enlarge pic!

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

ok so, The s13 hubs and struts bolt right in, Including the lower Ball joint adaption plate, (orginal R30 item) ?  

Sorry i seem to find it a big vuage myself, maybe i cannot understand. You cannot retain the s13 5 stud?

can you tell me which part in which picture your talking about?

i think its the s-14/15 thats 5 stud?? i went 4 stud due to $2500 already spent on rims, and i dont have to change the rear end as well.

i'll rename some of the pics

So what brakes are they, and what struts?  (I'll assume S13 coilovers)

Does it still use the R30 ball joints?  Mine are near replacing time but I've heard they are hellishly expensive to get

i'm using JIC s-13 coilovers with r32 GTS-T calipars and re-drilled gts-t rotors.

with the ball joints i'm still using the r30 ones as they were fine, rubbers still in good nick, i might look at the s-13 steering arm to see if i could swap the ball joints over or at least that end part of the arm.

R30 ball joints were $190 for 2 all on new arms so they aint that expensive. And before you go looking s13 steering arms are completely different without a chance of fitting, I have already checked that avenue.

Now for my next trial fit s13 rear cradle with adjustable everything, I reckon it can be done I just dont know how hard it would be.

R30 ball joints were $190 for 2 all on new arms so they aint that expensive. And before you go looking s13 steering arms are completely different without a chance of fitting, I have already checked that avenue.

Now for my next trial fit s13 rear cradle with adjustable everything, I reckon it can be done I just dont know how hard it would be.

Dear god thats expensive, It only cost me for a whole lower arm and ball joint 50 bucks brand new

omg, that looks so sexy with the front low like that. The part i refuring to is really how does the lower mount on the Strut itself mount to the R30 ball joint adaption plate? does the s13 use the same style system ?

you've got to take the adaptor plate off the r30 before you can put the s-13 hub on. if you look at this pic, i've high-lighted the corosponding s-13 hub parts. once you get a look at the hub it will all fall into place..

Dear god thats expensive, It only cost me for a whole lower arm and ball joint 50 bucks brand new

Yes, it is quite expensive. I was quoted $135 each (plus GST). I ended up getting them for $99 each. A bit of a bugger, because I will be going through them a fair bit - my DR30 is a rally car. My first run in it is on Sunday at Bega. Woohoo!

Perhaps you could send me a box of them with "Happy Birthday!" written on the outside (stupid import taxes)...

Yes, it is quite expensive. I was quoted $135 each (plus GST). I ended up getting them for $99 each. A bit of a bugger, because I will be going through them a fair bit - my DR30 is a rally car. My first run in it is on Sunday at Bega. Woohoo!

Perhaps you could send me a box of them with "Happy Birthday!" written on the outside (stupid import taxes)...

Happy b-day to you happy b-day to you :P

Can someone who has actually had the S13 converstion done and driven around while, tell me what it is like?

I have been talking to discopotato about the whole thing and the guy does make some very good points (mainly bump travel I think) about why this is not an ideal set up. (as for as I know)

I am having it properly sit up by a suspension specialist so hopefully this will minimize any problems, Yes?

Surely the lighter strut bodies of most aftermarket coilovers would reduce unsprug weight much more than converting std front struts to height adjustable coilover?

I have heard that reducing unsprung weight is one of the best things you can do to improve the way your car handles.

Cheers

I dont know shite :confused:

you gotta think if the s-13 coilovers were set up with good springs (Lb) then they are going to be fine regardless?? if you put these into an s-13 are they going to work differently than if they are in a r30, in the r30 i have the fronts sitting about an inch from full height, if i lowered it any more then it will just scrape on every bump..

  • 1 month later...

throught i'd get around to finishing this, i need info on brake lines, what ones to use as the r30 screw ends are to big to fit into the gts-t calipars, and the lines that came with the gts-t calipars were cut...

any ideas as to what to look for?

cheers matt.....

On mine I just pulled that little bit out of the caliper that is ment to seal on, so I could run the standard r30 line with the copper washer to seal it all in.

Either that or just get some braided lines made up which is what I will be doing soonish.

maybe the hr and dr brake lines are different..

it looks like i have to take the coilovers out for a little bit as i was specking to a bloke about compliance he said i cant have them in for compliance....

Maybe but my lines are out of an MR30 and they were the same the DR ones.

Another idea is you could simply grind the thread back so it isn't quite as long, That is what a mate of mine did.

i'll have to go back to the HR struts so while i'm doing this i'll have a close look at the lines or even try to get some later model MR lines as mine is a 82' HR30 so maybe the 84-85 lines are different??

cheers mate......

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For something a little more serious, Davinci Resolve is about the best there is for free video editors. No expiration dates or watermarks, completely free.
    • Well, it's taken me until the last week of 2024 to actually do something on the Skyline but I consider it a good head start to 2025's efforts! I managed to justify (to myself anyway...) my purchase of the lift table. It made taking the rear subframe out a lot easier than it would have been without anyway! Everything is out and stripped down ready for a clean then powdercoating.  She's pretty grubby under there but pretty good condition for a 38 year old Japanese tin bucket. 12 years of zero street time have obviously helped that... I need to decide which of the factory suspension arms I will keep and replace so I only get what I'm keeping powdercoated.  Baby steps but it's a start!  
    • Turbo gods, some assistance and recommendations please I'm looking into a turbo kit for my 2.5 from MX5 Mania >>>>> https://mx5mania.com.au/products/copy-of-mx-5-nc-2-5-litre-engine-conversion-turbo-2005-2013 Power wise I would like about 200kw atw, and of course dose noises, apparently if you keep a stock 2.5 under around 200kwatw the engine and drivetrain will not hate life even when ragging on it a bit Max RPM on the 2.5 is around 6500rpm The turbo MX5 use is something around the disco potato size as  packaging room for the turbo is pretty limited, which will, I believe, give me my power goals I want and not have the turbo either under, or oversized, but the rear housing bit is confusing  It comes with either a 0.64 or 0.86 From my understanding, which so far is based off googling, so make of that what you will 0.64: spools faster = good Makes more EGT heat on boost = bad Less topend power than 0.86 = I'm only looking for 200 atw so that point may be mute????, I don't know, hence my questions  0.86: Spools a "little" slower = how much slower??? remembering 6500 is my max rpm Makes less EGT heat = good Makes a little more power up top = again, power goals is only around 200 Also, this is a street car, so there will not really be any long track sessions, in saying this I would want it so it was happy with at least 3 hot laps at Wakefield Park if the need arises  I already have a fancy pants triple pass radiator, and a oil cooler with thermostat will be getting installed as well Thanks for any information or recommendations you have 👍, and of course, the comments about me wasting money on drive in drive out modifications, or any other snide remarks about my manhood for owning a MX5 🤣    
    • Tape some wool onto the vent then take it for a drive I did this to my reverse cowl and was instantly unhappy, as anything over about 60kph would have the wool enter the engine bay, thus just adding underbonnet pressure and stooging my coolant stack, it did let alot of heat out when stationary though, which really didn't help once the car was moving, with the reverse cowl you could watch the coolant temps cheap up the faster you went on the hwy, I assume it would be alot worse doing track day speed With the vented bonnet (just after the radiator and about 1/3 up the bonnet) on my old R33 the wool on the leading edge sat at about a 45° angle as air poured out of it From looking where your vents are, and their size, I believe you should be fine at speed and air should be evacuated from the engine bay, I think it will be a night and day difference when stuck in traffic though for removing the trapped heat, and not sitting there cooking when parked up after driving around... #convection  Post wool tuft pics and data for science  This beastie is one nice and unique rig, enjoy
    • It is possible to do this stuff for "cheap". But you need to be able to get deals on all the bigger items, and it really helps if you're fully capable of doing your own work. As soon as you're paying retail for new parts, or buying "kits" because you can't fabricate necessary bits and pieces, and if you really need someone else to take the reins of doing the work because you don't have the space/time/skills/confidence to  rip deep into the car and put it back together in a working fashions.....then you pay. And these days, pay means a lot of money. You'd think things would get cheaper, but they don't. They just seem to keep getting more and more expensive.
×
×
  • Create New...