Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If i was to Put coilovers In Would i need to change calipers or can i keep the r30 hatch ones? Im worried about Loosing Front Grip with Coilovers In this Car Due to the Bumping in road Surface Might Cause Lost of traction :mellow:

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 4 months later...
ok If i use s13 coilovers and hubs is it needed to change the calipers to gtst items?

its up to you? the s-13 items are fine but changing to r32 gts-t items was one of the reasons for doing the swap..

Nut none the less it is still neccsary to get the B lines doen for the the S13 ones in the least correst you cant use the origanlas?

i thing your talking about the brake lines, remember the originals are 20 years old!! talk to a suspension place about the brake lines..

  • 10 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...
Ive been reading on the silvia forums and they do the 5 stud conversion by using s14 hubs and r33 ball joints,

has anyone here tried using these parts instead of s13 items?

i haven't looked to see if the rears can be re-drilled to 5stud, if so your set if not then you would be looking at getting new items milled or some sort of swap??

about $1000 for new billet rear hubs made....

How did you go with the ti rod ends...

CAN YOU DO A WRITE UP???

and some pics??

im interested too....

I copied everything mr rsx84 did in his initial write up, i used all s13 hubs discs and calipars so its still 4 stud.

Its all pretty straight forward, just a matter of taking old parts off and putting new ones on. When you come to

have a look i can show you.

i haven't looked to see if the rears can be re-drilled to 5stud, if so your set if not then you would be looking at getting new items milled or some sort of swap??

about $1000 for new billet rear hubs made....

How did you go with the ti rod ends...

I didn't do the 5 stud conversion just yet, just wanted to get coilovers in for now. Im gonna attack the rears before i

do the fronts for the 5 stud because the fronts would be easy, its the rears i havent explored enough yet. But from all

the work ive done on the car to date i know that nothing is impossible!!

My mate 'machined' the tie rod ends on the bench grinder until they matched the s13 items. Hes pretty handy on the

bench grinder, they fit snug and aren't loose. I thought of machining the hub side of it but then thought if i stuff the hubs

im in trouble but if i stuff the tie rod ends they're easier to replace.

Is a great write up by the way. It really is quite easy.

How did you go with the brake lines for the gtst calipars? I found the s13 items have exactly the same

fittings as the mr30 ones.

My mate 'machined' the tie rod ends on the bench grinder until they matched the s13 items. Hes pretty handy on the

bench grinder, they fit snug and aren't loose. I thought of machining the hub side of it but then thought if i stuff the hubs

im in trouble but if i stuff the tie rod ends they're easier to replace.

i got a set of s-13 tie rod ends here but the tread is reversed....

Did you use adj chamber tops from an s-13? they are backwards as well and don't alow much adjustment...

this conversion is so much easier in the r30 than in an r31....

the r32 4pots have the same fittings as well...

Edited by rsx84
i got a set of s-13 tie rod ends here but the tread is reversed....

Did you use adj chamber tops from an s-13? they are backwards as well and don't alow much adjustment...

this conversion is so much easier in the r30 than in an r31....

the r32 4pots have the same fittings as well...

I bought a set of s13 tie rod ends also, went to try and get them pressed into my r30 housings but pedders said no.

The machining has worked out fine so id recommend it to anyone with patience with a bench grinder.

yeah i used the adj camber tops but dont like em, i think the ones i have are a bit old and they are noisy as all hell.

And yeah they dont allow for much adjsutment, im trying to find some standard fixed tops.

so the 4 pots have the same fittings, good to know for the brake upgrade.

would i be able to bring a set of standard lower control arms around to your 'handy' mate???

what tie rod ends should i be looking out for???

im wanting to use stock items to get the roadworthy cert. , then maybe later on go the

KYB/GAB/Koni set-up

sounds like youve done some speccy stuff!!

i will confirm when im in your area.... wont be for a lil while yet.

would i be able to bring a set of standard lower control arms around to your 'handy' mate???

what tie rod ends should i be looking out for???

im wanting to use stock items to get the roadworthy cert. , then maybe later on go the

KYB/GAB/Koni set-up

sounds like youve done some speccy stuff!!

i will confirm when im in your area.... wont be for a lil while yet.

You don't need to modify the control arms, only the tie rod ends. My mate machined the tie rod ends on the bench

grinder to match the holes (close enough) to the s13 hubs. So you just need standard tie rod ends, unless you can

find a better way to get a solution for the tie rod ends.

When you say stock items do you mean r30 stuff or silvia stuff? Standard silvia struts do not fit in r30 shocker tunnels

just so you know. You need to use coilovers unless you want to modify the standard silvia struts which wouldnt be worth it.

ah ok...

i want to modify my stock lower control arms, as they are one piece and cant replace just the ball joints which are worn, making my steering very very soggy.

ive heard there is a way of getting the old ball joint off (angle grinder i guess) and drilling a new hole, then pressing in a new ball joint! (thats coming from my uncle, who is crazy...)

i guess i was getting thing all mixed up before...

ah ok...

i want to modify my stock lower control arms, as they are one piece and cant replace just the ball joints which are worn, making my steering very very soggy.

ive heard there is a way of getting the old ball joint off (angle grinder i guess) and drilling a new hole, then pressing in a new ball joint! (thats coming from my uncle, who is crazy...)

i guess i was getting thing all mixed up before...

speck to NOLTEC about your lower control arms as i think they do an exchange item, i have just had the ball joints in my r31 control arms replaced so i think the r30 items are the same??

the problem with the tie rod ends is the ball joint part is tapered for the s-13 and on the r30 there is no taper, its a cylinder not a cone shape..... you can't get the nut on enough to be able to put in the pin.... if you use a grinder (dremal something like that) to the under side of the hub hole, remove a small circle at a time, you will get it to a point where it will fit..... this is not a 5 min job take your time to get it right....

Edited by rsx84

isn't there a cheap way to do the hilux mod?

I have R31 GTS front struts and brakes in my HR30 but they are crap and far too expensive for parts because the rotors are a poofteenth bigger than the standard r31 units.

There has to be a real dodgy mix of parts that will combine to use the 4 pot hilux units and still retain the same stud pattern.

And yes the front of the car double acts as a road scraper with those struts.

isn't there a cheap way to do the hilux mod?

I have R31 GTS front struts and brakes in my HR30 but they are crap and far too expensive for parts because the rotors are a poofteenth bigger than the standard r31 units.

There has to be a real dodgy mix of parts that will combine to use the 4 pot hilux units and still retain the same stud pattern.

And yes the front of the car double acts as a road scraper with those struts.

to be honest if i was doing this again, knowing what i know now, i would have looked for a set of aus spec GTS front struts, rotors and calipars with the rear shocks and springs as well, the shocks can be rebuilt, the ride height is 40mm lower without effecting the shock travel at all and the GTS rotors are about 280mm from memory (standard aus spec items are 256mm) and the pad face is about 25% bigger than the standard r31 items...

Over the HR30 standard items i'd say your looking at a 40-50% braking increase, alot better suspension package as well if you add larger sway bars.....

all up i'd say no more than $1200 including the rebuilding of the shocks and sway bars, good $$$ considering 4 years ago i bought DBA slotted rotors for the HR30 for $700, Orange Koni's front incerts for $800 and new bendix comp X pads for $150 and the front and rear whiteline swaybars for $300, money well spend NOT, they are sitting in the boot of the car now after only travelling about 100km with them in.......

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Mate you saved be from dying in the Perth summer. AC wasn't changing direction and just going into diagnostics mode fixed it. You're a legend and I would shout you a beer if I could!
    • Unfortunately effort gone to waste, you will have substantial issues with how the manifold and wastegate have been integrated. You would be so much better off with a modified stock manifold like this: https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25detexgatedmanifold/   OR literally just getting a off the shelf Sinco or 6Boost manifold as myself and others have mentioned.  
    • Yuck. But it's kinda the same principle, moving timing around to make car run bad but sound good.... I went for a more spirited tuning drive to iron out a few things. Car no longer stalls, and it loved to dip RPM low when you clutch in. After tuning this (and the 4-5 tables that HPTuners/LS1 OEM ECU wants for idle air correction) it's now behaving somewhat normal. All expected because there's a new TB, new Intake manifold and that new TB which is 102mm vs 78... has an entirely different IAC passage which is smaller because ????? Unfortunately at this point I went to make further fine tuning changes to avoid it flaring up, you know... _tuning_ the HPTuners dongle died. Well to be more accurate - The USB cable died in a fashion that anyone who has ever charged a phone will recognize. After the app demanding I resync it 50 or so times (which all 'succeeded' but all failed) the device does not want to sync and I've logged a ticket with support to see if it's fixable. US Support said it was a 'storage issue' but after removing the SD card inside it and formatting it/fixing it the issue does persist. Unfortunately usually the fix is "Turn in your old dongle and pay $700 for the upgraded one" it's cheaper because I get some free licence credits I unfortunately don't need. However I'm 10 minutes down the road from HP Tuners AUS/VCM so at least I won't need to post it, and logged a new ticket for support over here. Definitely drives different. My SOTP dyno believes it's probably making 310-320kw instead of the 280 before.  It scrambles for traction a little now whereas it previously different. It drives like a bigger cam car up top even though the cam is smaller, likely due to the cam not being advanced 6 degrees. The timing is deliberately low and the fuel is very rich so who knows if this will improve on the dyno. It may, imperceptably. Also funny is removing the pineapples definitely makes the car squat more and axle tramp less. So this behavior of having more top end, squatting more, and scrabbling for traction more makes me think = more power. But I could have just been sitting on the threshold of that kind of behavior before. Time will tell if my butt dyno is calibrated right. I need the exhaust leaks fixed before dyno tune for obvious AFR related reasons - I repositioned the pipes but I'm not confident it's fully sealed even if it is better. At least the car does drive around while I cannot tweak/tune it for now. And I have aircon again. medium success!
    • Don't use that manifold. Please don't use that manifold. Sunk cost fallacy is not worth the later pain. None of these will be relevant to the change that will come from the different turbo and manifold. As in, the effect of the exhaust will be nil, regardless of what else is changed. And all the cam and fuel system stuff is not changing either way, so has no effect. The turbo and manifold (and to a small extent the wastegate)....big change.
×
×
  • Create New...