Jump to content
SAU Community

do it yourself front brake upgrade for the r30

rsx84
 Share

Recommended Posts

GTR30 Community Regular

GTR30

Posted
Posted
to be honest if i was doing this again, knowing what i know now, i would have looked for a set of aus spec GTS front struts, rotors and calipars with the rear shocks and springs as well, the shocks can be rebuilt, the ride height is 40mm lower without effecting the shock travel at all and the GTS rotors are about 280mm from memory (standard aus spec items are 256mm) and the pad face is about 25% bigger than the standard r31 items...

Over the HR30 standard items i'd say your looking at a 40-50% braking increase, alot better suspension package as well if you add larger sway bars.....

all up i'd say no more than $1200 including the rebuilding of the shocks and sway bars, good $$$ considering 4 years ago i bought DBA slotted rotors for the HR30 for $700, Orange Koni's front incerts for $800 and new bendix comp X pads for $150 and the front and rear whiteline swaybars for $300, money well spend NOT, they are sitting in the boot of the car now after only travelling about 100km with them in.......

Well i spent $1200 on my brake/suspension mods and apart from it being a bit too stiff driving over bumpy roads in the city it's great on a good road with nice corners..

brakes are standard with bendex ultra somethings- $40/50 - had to put new brake kits in every caliper (one at a time, it seemed every time the brakes were bled to put a new kit in, the seals on another caliper would perish- go figure)

Koni adjustables and custom made Kings Springs $1100 fitted....

Plus a few new bushes - radial arms, tie rods end etc...

handles sweet now, not like the boat on a po-go stick like before :thumbsup:

Who has done a Z32 brake upgrade on an R30...

300zx 4spotter up front, and 2pot on the rear with the 5stud conversion???????

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

rsx84 Veteran

rsx84

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
I have been talking to discopotato about the whole thing and the guy does make some very good points (mainly bump travel I think) about why this is not an ideal set up. (as for as I know)

good thing about this issue now is most coilovers brand new can be adjusted at the base, height wise, without effecting the travel of the shock itself.

reading back now that write up is very hard to follow, i might re-write it so it make sense....

Edited by rsx84
  • 5 months later...
skybt1 Community Regular

skybt1

Posted
Posted (edited)

i just had my s13 hubs machined to fit the R30 tie rod ends. Took it to an engineer/machinist and he had the simple

idea of countersinking a hole where the nut goes for the TRE so that you can get the nut down enough to pass the

split pin through. Simple, easy and most importantly it works! Only had to countersink about 2.6mm.

Saves trying to die grind the whole bigger and making a mess of it.

Edited by skybt1
rsx84 Veteran

rsx84

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Who has done a Z32 brake upgrade on an R30...

300zx 4spotter up front, and 2pot on the rear with the 5stud conversion???????

i looked into the Z31 set up for my r31 just 2 months ago, would be the same set up as using the r31 gear, the front brake set up is very different though, it will work but the rotor goes on then the hub over the top, don't know if you could go larger rotors or not with this set up, using the hr31 stuff you can fit the gtr calipars and rotors if you want to go that big :yes:

i didn't look at the rear for the 31 as it is completly different, if the hand brake set up between the r30 and z31 is the same then there would be no reason they won't fit...

skybt1 Community Regular

skybt1

Posted
Posted

On the topic of 5 stud conversion. If you can find some Z31 stub axles maybe they can replace the R30 ones?

They look the same, whether they have the same dimensions is another story i guess..

  • 1 month later...
stagefumer11 Rising Star

stagefumer11

Posted
Posted
Bump,

I was hoping to do this before work started again. I'm bored and this sounds like a good project. :P

Such a simple upgrade. All bolts in. I kept the r30 control arms, replaced them with new units. When it comes to the steering linkage i took a taperd die bit and open it open a little bit. Works fine

  • 3 weeks later...
Doctor 30 Community Regular

Doctor 30

Posted
Posted

I just run cut lower control arms as per Gordon Dobie's advise and then R31 GTS struts with R30 tops. You have to grind the thread to fit them but it all works reasonably well. Other thing is to get the shortest possible inserts for the back or it sits up and looks stupid. The shocker guys in Heidelberg West were good and fitted the new inserts for free. I forget what there name is.

rsx84 Veteran

rsx84

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I just run cut lower control arms as per Gordon Dobie's advise and then R31 GTS struts with R30 tops. You have to grind the thread to fit them but it all works reasonably well. Other thing is to get the shortest possible inserts for the back or it sits up and looks stupid. The shocker guys in Heidelberg West were good and fitted the new inserts for free. I forget what there name is.

so what you are saying is the r31 suspension is longer then the r30??

i've got a few days off early next week so i think i'll fit the GTS2 suspension into the HR30 and see what happens.

skybt1 Community Regular

skybt1

Posted
Posted
I just run cut lower control arms as per Gordon Dobie's advise and then R31 GTS struts with R30 tops. You have to grind the thread to fit them but it all works reasonably well. Other thing is to get the shortest possible inserts for the back or it sits up and looks stupid. The shocker guys in Heidelberg West were good and fitted the new inserts for free. I forget what there name is.

So you are saying that you cut the control arms and reweld them together??

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      R32 GTR clutch master cylinder adapters

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, that is a helpful description, because that sounds exactly like a bleeding issue in the clutch....these are hard to bleed manually even when the damping loop has been removed. I'd suggest bleeding again....start by filling the master cylinder up and opening the bleed nipple. Come back and check every now and then that the master cylinder is not empty. Let it gravity bleed for a few hours and see if that improves
    • weikleenget
      R32 GTR clutch master cylinder adapters

      By weikleenget · Posted

      I replaced the whole clutch line with the chase bays braided hose, I think it removes that loop, is it the short hose that comes immediately off the slave or is there a drawing in the manual to find what you’re referring to? It was just re-bled when I upgraded to the nismo slave, old slave worked fine but I thought that might help, didn’t change a thing. It’s like the first half of the pedal is pushing air and then when it finally actuates the master the friction zone is tiny. Makes it practically impossible to launch the car
    • Kinkstaah
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • The Bogan
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By The Bogan · Posted

      I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • The Bogan
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By The Bogan · Posted

      If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
×
×
  • Create New...