Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I found just going down my street brake hard at the end, then go down the next street (20-30m) brake hard again its good enough. I found more heat the better it got. And I still havent experienced any real brake fade. Saying that I havent been out to the track yet either.

Ive got dba4000 slotted on front with rb74 pads and they work heaps better than the stock stuff i had before.

They heat up pretty fast, as Dave said usually within the first minute or so of driving theyre not so good, but after that their great!

I'm interested in feedback here too.

Particulalry in the wear and tear of pads.

I've 'heard' that normal pads last around 60,000kms depending on how you drive.

The slotted ones reduce this to about 20,000kms....

True or not true? Or somewhere in the middle...

Thanks.. ;)

I am running DBA 4000 series rotors & RB74 pads on my R32 Gt-R. They are good for both street & track use. Be aware that they will start to squeal if you haven't given them a pasting for a while.

The rotors come with thermographic paint on them. The paint on mine have flashed off which indicated temperatures above the 600 degree mark (From memory) The brakes still worked well at those temps, however the hotter they get the more pad wear you get. Make sure you warm them up & cool them down properly.

Rotors stand up well to the pads. If you do some track days you pads wont last anything like 40,000 kms. Mine are set for the bin after about 5,000kms. If you just want them for road use, you may be better with something other than RB74's.

Also, use some Motul RBF600 fluid with them. No point having flash pads if the brake fluid is boiling its arse off.

I'm interested in feedback here too.

Particulalry in the wear and tear of pads.

I've 'heard' that normal pads last around 60,000kms depending on how you drive.

The slotted ones reduce this to about 20,000kms....

True or not true?  Or somewhere in the middle...

Thanks..  :(

If your still using stock pads maybe. But I would think you would upgrade both at the same time.

Also look at the RDA brakes tho, just as another option, a few people on here have them, seem to like them. Im going to put them on the rear when I get around to it, see how they go there.

It depends on how hard you use them. I've only done 2 track days and a few mountain climbs on them and they havent needed machining. Troy had his done a couple of months ago after a few track days i Believe, he can correct me if i'm wrong. You'll need to get them machined a few times before they need replacing.

Yep their own brand of pads

If you are ordering some pads from RaceBrakes make sure you tell them you are a member of a car club (eg WASCC) & you will get a 10% discount or thereabouts.

Also, it pays to order them a bit before you need them. Racebrakes seem to have problems getting the backing plates for the pads & hence you sometimes have to wait. They will sell you a Toyota pad modified to fit a GT-R, which works fine.

Damn, I just got a new set of green EBC last month from another local workshop, was told that RB74 is actually better than EBC...

Don't get too hung up about brake pads. How you modulate your braking effort (ie how hard you push) & how well you heel and toe down change will determine how effective you braking is - much more so that the last little bit of friction coefficient on the brake pads.

In any case I struggle to get more than one gee out of the brakes of my R32 GT-R. This means I usually get hosed by such cars as Westfield 7's or early series RX-7 which can crack 1.2 gees with relative ease.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeahhhh, the costs have killed me. Spent more than the cost of an engine rebuild and it most mostly servicing and a tune lol.
    • I'm not 100% how the BMW racers do it, but I know from other brands like Merc, moving, and changing the coolers is one of the things. Like getting a transcooler out from infront of the radiator to out near a wheel arch. So some of the stuff you've got crammed in the middle front, spread it out and open up where you can in the bar to get more air in to the sides.
    • Small update for the day... Turns out the intercooler and engine coolant hose kits are anything but complete....I probably should have counted better but it only really covers about half the coolant hoses in the car, it really just covers the visible stuff and pretends everything else doesn't exist (turbo water feed and returns and also heat exchanger lines through the 2 pumps and cooler) .In any case, I'm happier to have half reliable hoses than none, but a bit of a disappointment. Anyway...finger click (and 5 hours).....hoses in place, lots of spring clamps replaced with screw clamps, and engine coolant is on the pressure tester for the night.   Incidentally, upsized header tank is an Inifiniti factory option....not sure I'll ever do prod car racing in this but at least it is legal.
    • Just weld it onto the hot pipe. If you want it right after the turbo, put it right after the turbo. Or rip the comp cover off and drill and tap a hole into it.
    • hahaha glad I can rely on you two to go on a spiral at the drop of a problem! Some quick answers....the ducting is excellent top bottom and sides....everything that gets in goes through the coolers (noting the oil cooler redirects it out again, fair call if it is cooling 120o+) and the heat exchanger for the intercooler also has some scoops to pick up more than it's fair share too. I can't see going down the water spray track....no bueno for formal racing and a big risk for long rally days if you run out (plus I'm not clear if it is allowed there either yet).   Frankly, it must be possible to reliably put 400kw through a standard front end, the BMWs do it so I just need to work it out....I'm starting with reducing blockages in the way and adding some coolant capacity with a bigger header tank, flushing rad and making sure it was filled/bled properly (I didn't do the last coolant change); also taken measurements incase next step is a bigger/higher capacity custom radiator
×
×
  • Create New...