Jump to content
SAU Community

DBA 4000 slotted rotor?

firefox
 Share

Recommended Posts

dangerous_daveo Grand Master

dangerous_daveo

Posted
Posted

I found just going down my street brake hard at the end, then go down the next street (20-30m) brake hard again its good enough. I found more heat the better it got. And I still havent experienced any real brake fade. Saying that I havent been out to the track yet either.

xRHETTx Mentor

xRHETTx

Posted
Posted

Ive got dba4000 slotted on front with rb74 pads and they work heaps better than the stock stuff i had before.

They heat up pretty fast, as Dave said usually within the first minute or so of driving theyre not so good, but after that their great!

Birnie Veteran

Birnie

Posted
Posted

I'm interested in feedback here too.

Particulalry in the wear and tear of pads.

I've 'heard' that normal pads last around 60,000kms depending on how you drive.

The slotted ones reduce this to about 20,000kms....

True or not true? Or somewhere in the middle...

Thanks.. ;)

djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted

I am running DBA 4000 series rotors & RB74 pads on my R32 Gt-R. They are good for both street & track use. Be aware that they will start to squeal if you haven't given them a pasting for a while.

The rotors come with thermographic paint on them. The paint on mine have flashed off which indicated temperatures above the 600 degree mark (From memory) The brakes still worked well at those temps, however the hotter they get the more pad wear you get. Make sure you warm them up & cool them down properly.

Rotors stand up well to the pads. If you do some track days you pads wont last anything like 40,000 kms. Mine are set for the bin after about 5,000kms. If you just want them for road use, you may be better with something other than RB74's.

Also, use some Motul RBF600 fluid with them. No point having flash pads if the brake fluid is boiling its arse off.

dangerous_daveo Grand Master

dangerous_daveo

Posted
Posted
I'm interested in feedback here too.

Particulalry in the wear and tear of pads.

I've 'heard' that normal pads last around 60,000kms depending on how you drive.

The slotted ones reduce this to about 20,000kms....

True or not true?  Or somewhere in the middle...

Thanks..  :(

If your still using stock pads maybe. But I would think you would upgrade both at the same time.

Also look at the RDA brakes tho, just as another option, a few people on here have them, seem to like them. Im going to put them on the rear when I get around to it, see how they go there.

R32Big_boy Veteran

R32Big_boy

Posted
Posted

It depends on how hard you use them. I've only done 2 track days and a few mountain climbs on them and they havent needed machining. Troy had his done a couple of months ago after a few track days i Believe, he can correct me if i'm wrong. You'll need to get them machined a few times before they need replacing.

djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted
Yep their own brand of pads

If you are ordering some pads from RaceBrakes make sure you tell them you are a member of a car club (eg WASCC) & you will get a 10% discount or thereabouts.

Also, it pays to order them a bit before you need them. Racebrakes seem to have problems getting the backing plates for the pads & hence you sometimes have to wait. They will sell you a Toyota pad modified to fit a GT-R, which works fine.

djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted
Damn, I just got a new set of green EBC last month from another local workshop, was told that RB74 is actually better than EBC...

Don't get too hung up about brake pads. How you modulate your braking effort (ie how hard you push) & how well you heel and toe down change will determine how effective you braking is - much more so that the last little bit of friction coefficient on the brake pads.

In any case I struggle to get more than one gee out of the brakes of my R32 GT-R. This means I usually get hosed by such cars as Westfield 7's or early series RX-7 which can crack 1.2 gees with relative ease.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • TurboTapin
      R33 GTS25 NA - Stalling when vehicle is at operating temp

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Touché. I had not noticed it was an NA. 
    • bcozican
      R32 Gtst - Track Car

      By bcozican · Posted

      it takes so long to get things done but ... they are nearly there and we hitting the track soon again  So - at Perth Festival of Speed the car unfortunately had a decent off, wasnt me driving, wasnt the person drivings fault. Long story short car got sent very fast towards the wall without the control on throttle from the driver input and a disaster was averted but there was damage that needed to be fixed - carbon busted and alot of bent bits The splitter got munched and had to go back to get fixed - took a bit to get it there, fixed and back but got a surprise package when a new double element higher DF splitter came back - nice surprise !  and first person to have one     At a car show I took the car too some punks stole one of my carbon indicator blanks and stomped on the other so had to get a new set of headlight / indicator combo from tops stage so got front fender vents as well to put in the order     While all this was happening the new MCA golds turned up and did some fiddling around with those   Put in the flappy paddle system and clutch lockout wiring/ system   We have also put shorter gearing in top top it out at 300 kmph in 6th gear  where previously I held 5th to 282 at SMP and 277 in Perth   Looking for better control and faster acceleration     I wasnt intending on doing pedal box I was managing with the brake master replacement system I had going on and adjusted std pedals but on applying the clutch switch to the old system we found the *insert technical word here * bar that goes from the pedal to the master was bent about 40 deg and about to snap = lucky find otherwise be a bad bad time - discussion was had about getting a custom bar built to withstand the load but in reality it was time      making any suspension, wheel or anything adjustments to date has been a nightmare - aero off, adjust, check and repeat - time consuming and hard - short of going full airjack system we fashioned some external manual car lifts this will make life a million times easier     All the bent framing, some intercooler pipes and other has been fixed and replaced and after 6 months I finally have the car back at home in my control so its get to work on it, set ride heights, wheel align and will start track testing again soon   So ultimately other than a few flashy bits nothing actually looks likes its been done but in reality alot has. Typical   We'll see how all this goes        
    • Duncan
      The Cool Tools Thread

      By Duncan · Posted

      I'm far from an expert, but for sticking bits of metal together occasionally I got a MIG, the biggest one I could get with a 10a plug (because while I have some 15a GPOs around, they are not everywhere).  Also, because I get through SFA, I just buy the small disposable gas bottles at Bunnings, I'm not opening a BOC account to get through 1/10th of a full size bottle each year
    • WMDC35
      SR20 to cefiro

      By WMDC35 · Posted

      FWD is different though.
    • MBS206
      R33 GTS25 NA - Stalling when vehicle is at operating temp

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Ignore the BOV / recirc valve question. You have an NA and shouldn't have one. If there magically is one though... It should be removed, though it shouldn't really effect it in the way one will for a turbo motor with it venting to atmosphere while running an afm.
×
×
  • Create New...