Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I found just going down my street brake hard at the end, then go down the next street (20-30m) brake hard again its good enough. I found more heat the better it got. And I still havent experienced any real brake fade. Saying that I havent been out to the track yet either.

Ive got dba4000 slotted on front with rb74 pads and they work heaps better than the stock stuff i had before.

They heat up pretty fast, as Dave said usually within the first minute or so of driving theyre not so good, but after that their great!

I'm interested in feedback here too.

Particulalry in the wear and tear of pads.

I've 'heard' that normal pads last around 60,000kms depending on how you drive.

The slotted ones reduce this to about 20,000kms....

True or not true? Or somewhere in the middle...

Thanks.. ;)

I am running DBA 4000 series rotors & RB74 pads on my R32 Gt-R. They are good for both street & track use. Be aware that they will start to squeal if you haven't given them a pasting for a while.

The rotors come with thermographic paint on them. The paint on mine have flashed off which indicated temperatures above the 600 degree mark (From memory) The brakes still worked well at those temps, however the hotter they get the more pad wear you get. Make sure you warm them up & cool them down properly.

Rotors stand up well to the pads. If you do some track days you pads wont last anything like 40,000 kms. Mine are set for the bin after about 5,000kms. If you just want them for road use, you may be better with something other than RB74's.

Also, use some Motul RBF600 fluid with them. No point having flash pads if the brake fluid is boiling its arse off.

I'm interested in feedback here too.

Particulalry in the wear and tear of pads.

I've 'heard' that normal pads last around 60,000kms depending on how you drive.

The slotted ones reduce this to about 20,000kms....

True or not true?  Or somewhere in the middle...

Thanks..  :(

If your still using stock pads maybe. But I would think you would upgrade both at the same time.

Also look at the RDA brakes tho, just as another option, a few people on here have them, seem to like them. Im going to put them on the rear when I get around to it, see how they go there.

It depends on how hard you use them. I've only done 2 track days and a few mountain climbs on them and they havent needed machining. Troy had his done a couple of months ago after a few track days i Believe, he can correct me if i'm wrong. You'll need to get them machined a few times before they need replacing.

Yep their own brand of pads

If you are ordering some pads from RaceBrakes make sure you tell them you are a member of a car club (eg WASCC) & you will get a 10% discount or thereabouts.

Also, it pays to order them a bit before you need them. Racebrakes seem to have problems getting the backing plates for the pads & hence you sometimes have to wait. They will sell you a Toyota pad modified to fit a GT-R, which works fine.

Damn, I just got a new set of green EBC last month from another local workshop, was told that RB74 is actually better than EBC...

Don't get too hung up about brake pads. How you modulate your braking effort (ie how hard you push) & how well you heel and toe down change will determine how effective you braking is - much more so that the last little bit of friction coefficient on the brake pads.

In any case I struggle to get more than one gee out of the brakes of my R32 GT-R. This means I usually get hosed by such cars as Westfield 7's or early series RX-7 which can crack 1.2 gees with relative ease.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Very decent bit of kit. Definitely black it out I reckon.  
    • Because people who want that are buying euros. The people with the money to buy the aftermarket heads and blocks aren’t interested in efficiency or making -7 power, they’re making well over 1,000hp and pretty much only drive them at full throttle  best way to way make money is know your customer base and what they want and don’t spend money making things they don’t want. 
    • It's not, but it does feel like a bit of a missed opportunity regardless. For example, what if the cylinder head was redesigned to fit a GDI fuel system? It's worth like two full points of compression ratio when looking at modern GDI turbo vs PFI turbo. I'm pretty reliably surprised at how much less turbo it takes to make similar power out of a modern engine vs something like an RB26. Something with roughly the same dimensions as a -7 on an S55 is making absolutely silly power numbers compared to an RB26. I know there's a ton of power loss from things like high tension rings, high viscosity oil, clutch fan, AWD standby loss, etc but it's something like 700 whp in an F80 M3 vs 400 whp in an R33 GTR. The stock TF035HL4W turbos in an F80 M3 are really rather dinky little things and that's enough to get 400 whp at 18 psi. This just seems unwise no? I thought the general approach is if you aren't knock limited the MFB50 should be held constant through the RPM range. So more timing with RPM, but less timing with more cylinder filling. A VE-based table should accordingly inverse the VE curve of the engine.
    • I've seen tunes from big name workshops with cars making in excess of 700kW and one thing that stood out to me, is that noone is bothering with torque management. Everyone is throwing in as much timing as the motor can take for a pull. Sure that yields pretty numbers on a dyno, but it's not keeping these motors together for more than a few squirts down the straight without blowing coolant or head gaskets. If tuners, paid a bit more attention and took timing out in the mid range, managed boost a bit better, you'll probably see less motors grenading. Not to name names, or anything like that, but I've seen a tune, from a pretty wild GT-R from a big name tuner and I was but perplexed on the amount of timing jammed into it. You would have expected a quite a bit less timing at peak torque versus near the limiter, but there was literally 3 degrees of difference. Sure you want to make as much as possible throughout the RPM range, but why? At the expense of blowing motors? Anyhow I think we've gone off topic enough once again lol.
    • Because that’s not what any of them are building these heads or blocks for. It’s to hold over over 1000hp at the wheels without breaking and none of that stuff is required to make power 
×
×
  • Create New...