Idling Problem with and R33 GTS-t

[Guest Ismail82]

Just wondering if anybody can help me or if anyone has encountered a similar Problem with their R33 Gtst Skyline.

After I drive the car constantly, meaning visiting various places and switching the car on and off, it becomes very rough and it lags. What i mean is that the idiling is really rough and will jump from 1000 to 3000 back and fourth, until i turn off the car and let it stand for about 15 minutes. I have cleaned the injectors. Also when this happens and i continue to drive it without letting it stand switched off, it is really lagging. I press down on the accelarator but it does not go how it should. I have spelt petrol fuems while i am in the cabin but whenever i ask whoever is with me if they smell it they say they cant. Has anyone else incurred a similar problem or know of anyone who has it would be really appreciaited if you could contact me and help me out. I really like driving the car but currently am afraid to in case it cuts out anywhere when i am out as it does.

[2fardown]

Could be your AFM (air flow meter). Either way, smelling petrol inside the cabin is never a good thing..that could indicate a leak somewhere or your engine running extremely rich. If I were you I would take it straight to a mechanic who knows what they are doing. Could save you money in the end.

[predator]

Could be your AFM (air flow meter).

Sounds very likely it could be that...although then again it could be anything. Apparently that happened in my car with the previous owner (ethanr33), so he used it for a good reason to whack an Apexi S-AFC in - of course with the additional power benefits.

Common problem?

[Guest Ismail82]

An Apexi S-AFC?? That the air flow censor right and how much do they cost.

[GTS-t VSPEC]

I'd recommend getting it on the dyno, as it could be related to either fuel or electrics, therefore you can monitor the A/F ratio etc and determine where the actual problem is.

Good luck.

See'ya

:burnout:

[Nrage33]

A good price to pay for an S-AFC would be around 400-450 bucks. N yea it'll help u loads with monitoring fuel mapping through the engine. it's definitely a good buy

[Guest BlitzoGT]

Hey everyone,

At last I see people with the same issue as I

Ismail82 I know how you feel, but mine doesn't hover as much as yours (i.e. around the 2-3k rpm mark).

Doesn't anyone know of a good and reasonable priced place that can do the dyno tune or the Apexi S-AFC as I too am getthing the same problem as Ismail82...

I'm located inner city area but willing to go anywhere that does a good job...

[Guest Ismail82]

Hey,

I took my car to the auto electrician. He and my mechanic recommended i clean the o2 sensor so had that done. Everything seems fine at the moment after it was cleaned.

[DAMQIK GTS-T]

Originally posted by Ismail82

Hey,

I took my car to the auto electrician. He and my mechanic recommended i clean the o2 sensor so had that done. Everything seems fine at the moment after it was cleaned.

How did you clean the O2 sensor? and what with?

[crooser]

damqik

how did you go after cleaning the O2 sensor?

any different?

[DAMQIK GTS-T]

Originally posted by crooser

damqik

how did you go after cleaning the O2 sensor?

any different?

The car ran really well for about five minutes

time to replace the thing:(

[Guest Ismail82]

I cleaned the 02 sensor with oven cleaner, as recommended by my mechanic. As of today i realised that cleaning it works only for three weeks as the same problem reoccured today. Time to change the 02 sensor and probably the Air Flow Ceonsor with a S-AFC as recommended by others.

[crooser]

http://www.wave.co.nz/~hksnz/techfiles/fue...do2sensors.html

[Guest Ismail82]

Hey all,

I left the car with the auto electrician for a full day. He hooked it up to the computer and ran tests to find that their are no faults with the car. O2 sensor is fine Air Flow Meter is Fine. He reset the computer and ran the tests again and again everything was fine.

He was confused and so am I. How come it would idle rough like that and become sluggish and yet everything registers as being fine. Does anybody at all have any ideas of how to rectify this problem through their experience or do they know anyone I could contact to get this sorted out.

At the moment i am driving but every now and agian it happens and it is so annoying. thanks to all

[GTS-t VSPEC]

I'd still suggest getting it on a dyno, they can monitor what is happening to the car much better that way. It is most likely a fuel related problem, so they will be able to tell if it is too rich or not firing etc.

It's well worth the money.

See'ya:burnout:

[Sciby]

Definitely get it on a dyno for a diagnosic run as has already been suggested. Get them to check your air-fuel mix, fuel pressure and whatever sensors they can.

I went from 95hp and really lean, found my coolant temp sensor was dead, went back to 150hp (with a badly slipping clutch) and all is well again.

Apart from the clutch.

Your problem may not be and probably isn't the coolant temp sensor, but it's an example of how a good dyno diagnostic run can pick up these things.

[Guest Ismail82]

Hi,

Can someone tell me which dyno centre is brisbane is good and also if they do the repairs there as well.

[Lozza150]

here's an oddball one....

Disconnect the battery for a couple of hours....

I've heard that the computers..."reset" themselves .....

If you still have the problem, I'm guessing that it has been repaird now

[Lozza150]

I've been told that, disconnecting the battery does not always work.

A qualified mechanic is the best alternative.....

[MegaGTS4]

Sounds like the same problem that I had? I cleaned out the auxiliary air control (AAC) valve, and it worked!(reading these forums can be helpful after all)

Its located at the back of the plenum chamber (inlet manifold) there is a maroon electrical plug (brittle) and a hose which need to be removed first then there is four ten millimeter bolts that also need to be removed before the whole assembly can be (careful if you want to use the orignal gasket again) removed from the car.

then there is two screws that hold the solenoid on, once this is removed the remaining assembly can be cleaned by useing carby cleaner (I used kero and a compressor to dry and clear any blockages) also make sure that the spring moves(smooth) and the valve works.

Reassemble in reverse order with a bit of sensor safe silicon with the original gasket(or you could make another one it depends on weather the gasket comes off in one piece) hope this helps!

It really is quite easy!

The stuttering might be spark plugs, have them gaped to 0.8mm this helps (platinum/iridium plugs also are a good choice for turbocharged engines)

MEGA