Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

when my head was taken apart the idiot bashed the 12 inlet guides out with a punch and rooted them beyond belief. all the guides had a bit of wear but were still fine to use, the engine had done 100,000km or so i believe. if you have to replace them with new ones, there's a trick.

new from nissan they are $90 each or something stupid like that. aftermarket ones do not exist (at least, my engine parts stockist could not get them) but we measured em up and found:

OD: 10mm

ID: 6mm

Length: 38?mm can't remember exactly.

anyway turns out the CA18 uses exactly the same measurements, but the guide is physically longer. buy 12 of them for $100 or so and lathe the ends off to bring the length down. works a treat!

Get a quote from a local engine reconditioner to have the guides k-lined, which is a bronze insert used after the valve guide bore is reamed oversize. Usually cheaper than new guides, plus has better wear characteristics.

But before you do anything, have the valves measured for wear as well as the guides if there's cause for concern.

  • 2 years later...

I won't k-line these heads, they don't last. Use CA18 guides as described above. heat the head to remove them and heat the head and freeze the guides to install them. The only time i've seen guides worn is where they have had k-lines fitted, I've also seen a CA18 head where the guide has come loose. K-lines have their place, just not in these engines.

  • 6 months later...

Nothing at Rocket - waiting for a call back from one of the boys at Hi Octane. I called them to start with but they said that all they kept in stock were the Tomei Beryllium ones and there's no way known I'm spending 700-plus on valve guides.

  • 1 month later...

does anyone know if the r33 valve guides also fit the r34 NEO? And when would i start to consider replacing them for a/m? Besides the obvious being worn out, is it the power or the rpms that factor? I will be reving to 8000rpm ( rb25/30) and 700rwhp. for argument sake they were in good condition, should i still go a/m? tomei seems the way to go.

yes i know...and pretty dam cheap compared to some here in aust. But do i need them? 8000rpm and 700rwhp? My stock are fine and head has come back from engineering.....So if i decide to go a/m its the downtime waiting for delivery and the extra labour involed. Workshop said i didnt need them but just want to get others opinions

i spoke to a supplier and they said that tomei rb25 and rb26 use same guides..Can anyone confirm this? Also if r33 guides would be the same as r34? Im thinking i should replace just to be on the safe side. Would be good to hear from people who still used their standard guides and what power/rpm they achived

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did a skidpan night at SMSP this week, it was much cheaper than $350. But yeah, you need to slap an LSD in that thing.  I put an OS Giken in the 370Z and it's f**king MARVELOUS even compared to Nissan's viscous LSD. So you're saying it's free now that it's a housing estate? 😂
    • Nah, the car seems to run exactly as it did prior, in saying this it does "seem" to be better down low, like more eager to rev, but that may be 100% placebo effect from intake noise But, I'm not worried about it at all, in the end it is a fairly low compression NA engine that has a well shrouded intake,  if it is getting hotter IAT I cannot notice anything negative performance wise from the seat of my pants thrashing it about on the street or sitting in traffic, so meh, car now now makes induction noise so I'm happy
    • Do you have an IAT sensor? It's worth checking it to see. You may be suprised how little gap you actually need to flood your engine with hot air. (I tape up my airbox for a reason) :p
    • @KinkstaahKrinkle paint the "silver" alloy, not the red filter frame Engine bay heat won't be a issue worth worrying about as the silver alloy blocks it off on 3 sides, as for the top, the bonnet seals most of it and the big OEM CAI intake snorkel is still fitted in its original position  I will head into Clark's Rubber when I have some time to grab some pinch weld to tidy up the alloy after I paint it As for performance, I honestly wasn't expecting any, the only reason I got it is because the intake noise sounds cool to my old ears when I'm feeding it the beans Sometimes it's the silly things you do in in life that gives the most fun, and I do love anything that makes cool car noises In other news: I survived 4 nights at sea with Jackie not throwing me over board, holidays are continuing now as we are currently chilling at the Beachcomber in Toukley, after taking the coast roads from Sydney in the MX5, top down all the way, Toukley is where I spent a good deal of my youth holidaying during the summer months, there's lots of reminiscing going on,  and lots of beaches and old houses to visit Next on the list is to head to Batemans Bay for a few days, but we will take the Commodore out to stretch its legs, then Commodore hasn't really moved for months
    • There’s probably people who’d like to do it and then when it comes to putting their hands in their pockets they’ll all disappear into the shadows 
×
×
  • Create New...