Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've been following this issue on my R32 for sometime now ever since I first got it.

Basically the HICAS light comes on after I travel a certain distance. It has made me wonder because it doesn't come on after a certain period of time but a certain distance everytime after first travelling in my car. Leave it to rest for a while and it resets itself and the same thing will happen again. Also I have no clue about HICAS diagnostics either.

One thing I have found though, is that my HICAS never actually seems to work. And I've never actually had the 4WS kick in on me before. But the thing is that I don't have a locker bar because all the lines still connect into the rear steering rack and there doesn't seem to be any tampering with the HICAS ecu at all.

Is there any dodge way of eliminating the HICAS? Removing fuses? Cutting/crossing wires? Also people with the lock bars, does the HICAS light come on at all times or something similar to my case that after it travels a certain distance the light will come on?

Cheers,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75923-timed-out-hicas-issue/
Share on other sites

Scott, it would appear that your steering wheel is not centred (I'm guessing an aftermarket wheel) so the HICAS goes into disabled mode after about 6-7km. There is a sensor in the steering wheel to tell the HICAS where it is pointing and if it is not centred/doesn't move when driving it shuts down HICAS.

For more info on HICAS go to the tutorial in my sig.

well my boss kit is the right opne it fits straight on,.,,.. i think its the steering wheel isnt dead centre problem and i need an alignment... so if i just adjust my wheel so its perfect straight this will fidx it>??? i still dont see how just taking the steering wheel off affects the sensor.. damn nissan

I too have the same problem, but not after any set time or distance.

I asked a mechanic who also owns a 32 and he put it down to a dodgy solonoid or to that effect. It started happening to me after about 3 weeks from purchase, since then I have changed my after market wheel twice. Made no diff, will follow this thread with interest, wiered.. :confused:

I too have the same problem, but not after any set time or distance.

I asked a mechanic who also owns a 32 and he put it down to a dodgy solonoid or to that effect. It started happening to me after about 3 weeks from purchase, since then I have changed my after market wheel twice. Made no diff, will follow this thread with interest, wiered.. :confused:

I too have the same problem, but not after any set time or distance.

I asked a mechanic who also owns a 32 and he put it down to a dodgy solonoid or to that effect. It started happening to me after about 3 weeks from purchase, since then I have changed my after market wheel twice. Made no diff, will follow this thread with interest, wiered.. :confused:

I too have the same problem, but not after any set time or distance. My handbrake light does the same. Neither everyday, nor at the same time, just every so often. Before you ask, yes my h/brake is all the way down.

I asked a mechanic who also owns a 32 and he put it down to a dodgy solonoid or to that effect. It started happening to me after about 3 weeks from purchase, since then I have changed my after market wheel twice. Made no diff, will follow this thread with interest, wiered..

:confused:

you can disable the HICAS by unplugging the KYB motor located in front of the rear steering rack. I would advise against it as it makes steering much heavier. You will know if the 4WS has been working or not because of the difference it will make once you unplug it. The light may stay on constantly though, can't remember.

The problem has been covered a hunred times :cheers:

Your problem is likely to be:

a) A lack of powersteering fluid.

B) An incorrect boss kit.

c) An incorrectly fitted boss kit.

Just because the boss fits, doesn't mean its the correct one. You need a boss with holes for the HICAS lugs offset at about 2AM and 8PM: see this tread:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...&highlight=boss

I also had an issue with the piping on the powersteering resevoir coming loose. I pulled the hoses up as high as possible (which was bloody hard) and then replaced the standard clamps with ring clamps.

Lucien.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wideband is worth setting up if only for tuning purposes. I would not mess with the ignition system unless there's a misfire. HKS crank trigger is popular out here for the relatively easily sourced Denso crank sensor, not a bad idea to install as well regardless of power level on a standalone. Boost leak test is worth thinking about. Oil pressure sensor tied to a fuel cut isn't a bad idea either. Getting the tune figured out is a good idea. Without putting eyes on it and getting under it there's no way for us to tell you exactly what it needs but most likely you're down to the last 10% that will make a big, big difference in how happy you are with the car.
    • Doing a refresh of my 33 and can see a few websites stating they sell the entire main carpet for our cars, but they all have generic photos which is fine, i understand they are custom made to order.  Just seeing if anyone has got it done or had any experience with this, as i would only want to do it if the fit and finish was as good as oem https://carmatsdirect.com.au/products/moulded-carpet-or-vinyl-for-nissan-skyline-r33-1993-1998-coupe https://knoxautocarpets.com.au/moulded-carpets/nissan/skyline/skyline-r-33-1993-1998/
    • Any plans for E85? If so, add flex fuel sensor.   I'd probably add in the sensors I mentioned above if the Link will support using them for engine protection. With water pressure, you need to be able to effectively set it that "If temp > X, and pressure = atmospheric, shutdown" as at running temp, you should be able to read pressure in the cooling system. If pressure suddenly disappears, it means the water went some where, and this is a quicker reaction than waiting on water temp to go up (Which, can take a little longer than you'd like, considering it now has to wait for hot air to heat it up) Oil pressure, Oil temp, both would be on my list too if you're looking to add sensors. Wideband O2. And at least one EGT sensor. If you're feeling deluxe, put in individual runner EGTs. Single EGT sensor is more so forget about a specific number, get used to "What is normal EGTs", and then keep an eye on it, if it starts going away from "normal" it's a sign something is wrong (Also, things like the tune can still start going out of spec, but EGTs may not show it, for example one injector starts running leaning, so ECU richens everything up, now 5 out of 6 cylinders are rich, and running cool, with one cylinder lean and running hotter, so it's not perfect) Then there is your other things to look at non sensor related, but you may have already done, or have underway, and that would be things like building a sump for more oil, and better oil control under high G-Forces (Cornering, brakes, acceleration). Basically, the above is worth looking/thinking about, if the ECU can do protective stuff with it, and you continue to use it how you are (Drive it to the track, thrash it, drive home, repeat once every 3 to 4 months)
    • Can also confirm these work a treat for most balljoints and bushes. If you have access to a big rattle gun, they make the job so much easier and quicker, compared to using a socket wrench or shifter on the c-clamp 👍
    • Its sort of street but got used for circuit sprints on account of I never drive it on the road because I dont have the time to spare. So it usage was sits around for months at a time then gets driven either 50 or 250 kms to the track followed by 20 laps followed by 50 or 250kms home followed by stuck in the shed until next time. So yeah neither fish nor fowl. Just dont want to break it on the track as a preference. Hence the fairly short sensor/mod list. Probably more worried about it pinging itself to destruction more so than anything oil related.
×
×
  • Create New...