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I am helping a friend of mine tweak his wolf3d in a r33 GTS 25T. We got it dyno tuned when it was installed. Unfortunantly it is running so rich that unburnt fuel is comming out at idle and you need to use the flood control to start it.

I am just wondering what injector times people are using for starting and idling an rb25det? Currently it is 6ms for the start and 1.54ms for idle.

Any help would be great.

Thanks

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i have been told by some performance mobs around the place , about the wolf 3d v4

cause i was after a ecu for my r33 auto

mercury motorsport apperntly can do the tune and whateva , but they are located in brisbane.

but have heard the wolf 3d's are more suited to a commodore or somethin like that rather then a turboed vehicle.

As mercury motorsport, (from memory) have dealt with these ecus b4, i would talk to them about it. mite be able to help over the phone, but ya mite have to take it into somewhere.

l8ers

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I'm just having a look at the standard map steve sent me, my starting fuel rate is 6.00ms and the idle is that the figure in the bottom left corner of the fuel map? if so then that is 1.29.

hope it helps and I hope i'm right.

PM me your email ad and i'll email you the map so you can compare:uh-huh:

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just got mine installed by Mercury Motorsports today.. unfortunately due to lack of time they weren't able to tune it properly.. they asked me to leave the car another nite as they need to have a cold start tune up but i had to head back to the coast and needed the car for work.

still idleing bad from time to time.. im expecting a bad cold start in the morning..but will take the car back next week and hopefully the problem will be solve by then.

they are having a hard time to by-pass the turbo timer though,.,has anyone had this problem ? as my turbo timer isn't working.

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yeah we had problems with the turbo timer. Whenever we tried to start the car it would come up with a message saying that the turbo timer mode had started and we whad to wait. It ended up being that the battery was dropping down to 5v. The wolf works all the way down to 6.5v. So get out the trusty multimeter and check the voltages on the battery termainals as you try to start the car.

If you are trying just to disable the torubo timer it can easily be done through the laptop software or the hand controller. The instructions for the hand controller should have come with the ecu. But you can grab a pdf copy from http://www.wolfems.com.au just don't ask me for the exact page because their website sucks big time.

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i think PFC is more compatible with the turbo vehicles, also being like you said, there are pretty much most skyline that has modded their car, and is MANUAL, to a reasonable HP, have used this type of ECU

Cause ppl know it works, and know ppl that can tune these ecu's,

for the price too PFC 980 to 1500, ranges abit,

but as from ppls experiences , and seein ppl usin them, seems to be worth the money

as i havent had the chance of havin one...... yeettt!!!!

i dont know, so and only goin what i have seen, read, and heard. BUT its good enough for me.

I'm goin to go with the PFC, and recently just changed my car to manual, cause of ECU optins was very very limited, To the fact that i couldnt find one that works.

And was resorted to a piggy back, or tweaked standard ecu.

Also depends what hp ya chasin aswell i guess.

Anyway hope everything goes sweettt assss!!

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well works well, as i havent heard any complaints about PFC's on skylines

or anything going wrong.

As for wolf 3d's with this thread looks like theres a running rich problem,

and looks like its quite common, with all skylines.

Maybe its just tuning problems with wolf 3d's, ppl dont have enough experience with them.

Or maybe there just not suited for skylines, which i have heard that wold 3d's are more suited to a non turbo vehicle.

As im sayin PFc more compatible, i' probably should of said seems to work well,

ppl know how to tune them, theres alot of them around, and for the price is good.

As i havent had one , just goin by hearin, seein, and readin , thats all im goin off .

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Wolf3Dv4 user here and couldn't be happier.

My car does have a little trouble on cold start up but that's because it was initially running too rich and flooding itself while trying to start. I also was a victim of the "please leave it for one more night, we need to tune the idle/startup"... I couldn't wait and took the car anyway and then had the starting issues.

Lowering the fuel allowed it to start every time, although the idle on startup is now a little weak. Once it's been going for 20 seconds, it's perfect.

As for how they run on turbo engines?

460hp Turbo

3inch Exhaust

FMIC

Atmo BOV (showing this for a reason even though yes it's a lame mod)

Fuel Pump

STOCK Injectors

243rwkw @ 16psi.

Have been driving it for 6 weeks now. Has NEVER backfired or missed a beat. Pulls all the way to 8000rpm (when I'm not paying attention to the revs :cheers:) without misfiring or coughing or spluttering. MAP's rule. I can pssscchhtttt all day long without that aweful backfire it used to make.

Everyone who has checked out my car has commented on how well it has been tuned.

Work done by WASP on the Gold Coast with tuning done at PITS.

Could NOT be happier :0

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I want to get rid of the AFM,

Why?

Can't be fuel economy, an AFM is demonstably superior as it measure the actual air flow into the engine.

Can't be emmisions, an AFM is demonstably superior as it measure the actual air flow into the engine.

Can't be power, I have seen a GTR with over 1100 bhp running AFM's

Can't be 1/4 times, I have seen a GTR run low 8's using AFM's

Can't be terminal speed, I have seen a GTR with a TS over 160 mph running AFM's

Ok I give up, why do you want to get rid of the best method of measuring load on an engine and substitute it for a MAP sensor that guesses load by measuring pressure and then calculation and extrapolation?:cheers:

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if it was a NA car i would agree with getting rid of the afm to allow a phat intake. But the force induction system doesn't have a big a problem. The whole reason to big intakes in NA is to allow higher pressure air to reach the engine. This really isn't a problem when running boost. If you can tune to the afm you will be able to get much more precise maps running.

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Point taken, I have never run AFM's before...always a MAP, this is of course with iron big blocks with blowers and turbos

I just don't like the fact that something else has to be plumbed in along the line. I was merely asking for peoples opinions.

The other fact is that the AFM is not COMPLETELY accurate otherwise with excellent tuning the PFC should eliminate backfiring.

Its good to hear all these cars running low numbers with AFM's...however that is all good and well but that proves nothing. They would run the same power and numbers with a properly tuned MAP sensor ECU...

And last time I checked, I never wanted to run a 9...or a 10...or even an 11.

Alot of the time ECU choice is a decision made taking into consideration many factors, and pulling ya pud with figures about other cars has SFA to do with the question at hand.

Also tuning the af maps more precisely with an AFM isntead of a MAP is like comparing apples with oranges. That is a load of you know what in its self. Find a good tuner and the results will speak for themselves.

Good luck to the bloke who has the start up idle problem, I am sure Matty at PITS will be able to help. Was talking to a good performance friend who was with him the other day and he said that its a relatively easy fix.

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