Jump to content
SAU Community

HELP surging engine

adrnln

By adrnln,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

adrnln Proficient

adrnln

Posted
Posted

Ok guys I think i am in the right area.

My 89 Ceffy has been great, BUT recently only in the mornings when taking off it feels as though someone is pulling the handbrake on at about 2000 to 3000rpm but as I drive through it it goes away, and then starts over again in the next gear so on and so forth till the engine warms up about 15mins or so later.

pls help with this issue as it is giving me the shits as well as the G/F

Ta

another Ceffy lover

ADRNLN

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76140-help-surging-engine/
Share on other sites
jaik Mentor

jaik

Posted
Posted

Mine does the same... its as if it retards the timing then all of a sudden goes back to normal and gives you a nice swift kick in the pants! Again, only happens when the motor is cold. Doesnt retarding the timing increase cylinder temps therefore warming the motor up quicker... might make sense?

JK

Ceffy_SA Collaborator

Ceffy_SA

Posted
Posted

Yea mine does the same thing for about 5-10 mins (depending on weather), i think its just the engine retarding the timing to create more heat and warm the engine up faster, you would probalby find that if your cefiro is turbo the turbo starts spooling up earlier and with alot less throttle.

Does anyone know what sensor triggers this, is it oil pressure/temp or water temp or both?

BenA31 Experienced

BenA31

Posted
Posted

i know this could be way off and slightly off topic, but would the fact that most of us are probally running the original auto computers (assuming with the limited amount of genuine manual ceffy's that were made) with now manual change anything with the timing when starting/warming up? (eg are the ignition maps different?)

anyway dude as i have mentioned and as jaik also touched on, check ur thermostat (could be siezed open) and coolant temp sensor (could be old and faulty/corroded).

other then that might be best to post ur issue up in the tech area as alot of r32 drivers would prob have experience/knowledge with such an issue aswel.

Resin Rising Star

Resin

Posted
Posted
i know this could be way off and slightly off topic, but would the fact that most of us are probally running the original auto computers (assuming with the limited amount of genuine manual ceffy's that were made) with now manual change anything with the timing when starting/warming up? (eg are the ignition maps different?)

anyway dude as i have mentioned and as jaik also touched on, check ur thermostat (could be siezed open) and coolant temp sensor (could be old and faulty/corroded).

other then that might be best to post ur issue up in the tech area as alot of r32 drivers would prob have experience/knowledge with such an issue aswel.

mine is a stock manual and it surges when cold for the first 5 to 10 minutes or until the temp needle reaches the middled of the temp guage ..then it stops ...so i dont think its that

cefiro Experienced

cefiro

Posted
Posted

I have had a 32gtst, tt300 and the cefiro and they all have done it, if you find out what it is then your up for a noble prise in my opinion. I think its the timing being retarded, or a faulty sensor as latley I havent had it everytime I have started the car when its cold. I did go for a thrash and that seems to help it for a little while. The other thing my car gets is a slight splutter at cold idle as well, so the retarding seems to be right.

hope someone fixes this dilema

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Trilbyte
      RB25 S2 Idles but doesn't want to rev

      By Trilbyte · Posted

      Update for the sake of closure   Ended up getting the intercooler piping all sorted, new plugs and yellow jacket coils, and she was idling mint until it warmed up while I was bleeding the cooling system. Found the misfire to be localised to cyl 3 by unplugging coilpacks, ran a compression test, that checked out, then decided to get a mate to check if that spark plug was firing out of the motor. Upon cranking it over, with the injectors disconnected, the car actually fired and ran on a couple cylinders and heaps of fuel came out the top of cyl 3 I'd say that injector's either spraying incorrectly or spraying far too much, which is fine as I'm planning on replacing them anyway I'm planning on making about 250kW on flex fuel, and have a set of 1000cc injectors from ozautosport, obviously overkill but I'm planning on building the motor and running more boost further down the line, do you reckon they'd be too big for a smooth idle on 98? Thanks for the replies gents, much appreciated
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Any feedback on GReddy Turbine Kit T620Z in r33 GTST/RB25DET?

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Nice modern Hypergear high flow would be perfect.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I'm confused. You said you want to "remove the clear coat from most panels" but it sounds like you are actually doing a full respray? Few random things to add -  If you chase the blistered paint with 120 grit, I can almost guarantee you'll chase it down to bare metal (that's fine). But if you paint the car from here, you'll have nice little indents where ever the blistered paint was. The new paint won't magically level out the low areas, you need to fill them. Which leads me to the main point I wanted to add, make sure the whole car is flat before you paint it. All those areas with blistered paint you sanded out, make sure to fill them and triple check they are flat with a block guide coat. I'd also check the whole car is flat with a large block and guide coat but yeah up to you if you want to go that far.   
    • Duncan
      Any feedback on GReddy Turbine Kit T620Z in r33 GTST/RB25DET?

      By Duncan · Posted

      300hp (225kw) is barely outside the standard turbo's range with a bit of extra boost in it (200ish). If you are going to change the turbo you should aim for 250-300kw (330-400hp) to make the expense worthwhile
    • Murray_Calavera
      Any feedback on GReddy Turbine Kit T620Z in r33 GTST/RB25DET?

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      A couple of things, firstly omg that turbo is expensive! $3,000 USD for dinosaur technology is robbery. You could buy a G series turbo and have a good amount of change instead.  If you want a good budget option, have a look here - https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/ If you are keen to spend more, have look at the modern turbos, Garrett G series, Borgwarner EFR, etc. Have a look at the RB25 dyno results thread for inspiration.  If you upgrade your turbo to something that will support the 300hp you want and only "probably" have Haltech ECU, your car will only "probably" run. Actually, no it won't run. You are going to need the ECU and injectors at the time you do the turbo upgrade.  No thoughts on "this much boost" as you didn't say how much boost that actually is. Having said that, plenty of unopened RB25's making even more power then what you are chasing.   
×
×
  • Create New...