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Check the air reg down where the injectors are.That may be dirty inside aswell.There is 2 10mm bolts holding it down and 2 fat hose's each side.

__________________

is it square shaped type off thing?

can anyone think off a reason why it will idle high when AAC valve conected

but idles normally when its not???

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It still idles high even when I disconnect it... I admit it does drop, but not a lot and it still idles way too high and now this hunting thing is driving me mad, I will sit at the lights and it will bounce between 1000 and 2000, bloody irritating!!

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Okay, I disassembled and reassembled my AAC valve, didnt do anything, Im in the process of putting the Air regulator back in, just waiting for gasket goop to dry. I think this might do the trick as the spring wasnt under any tension which would suggest that the plate couldnt move due to being in the incorrect position. I will post later to confirm If it worked

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Well the Air regulator is back in and the car idles around 1000 and stays there, no more hunting for me!! I gotta say it was pretty easy and you can't really go wrong with the internals of the regulator, they only go in one way.. I'm happy with the result.

eXc your guide was how I started out repairing the valve, great one mate. Cheers

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i sorted out most of my prob

found that the turbo smart blow off valve is most likely after i dissconnected it i had allmost no drop in idle at all and never stalled

connected it and again after pulling up at light ect.. it would stall and drop really low idle

i opened the bonnet and reved the car and watched the BOV found that it was sucking in air because the valve would not fully shut

so now its disconnected

maybe the rest of the prob is the fuel pump

as silvia pumps operate with a ground swith that at idle it drops the current to the pump so low that it cant operate properly (i have GTR pump)

so on the weekend ill find the earth wire from the pump and run my own bigger gauge earth to a earth point in the boot

hopefully it fixes the prob or ill have to run a new cable from the switch and new relay also with same gauge wire

hope it works

cheers

matt

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timmy c

The air regulator has two bolts holding it to the intake manifiold, get those out and two hoses and connector and your on your way, you can take more hoses off to give yourself more working space as well. eXc's tutorial is good try use that, getting it out was the hardest part. It will require a little patience, but will come out. The screws on the air regulator are tough ones, but I sprayed them with a bit of lubricant and used a quality phillips screwdriver head and just moved it a little at a time, also helps if you push down on the screw to stop it stripping the head, I thought they wouldnt come out, but with a bit of patience(again) they came. If you got anymore questions post away

Good luck mate.

blackrb20silvia let us know how the pump goes

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Hey guys,

Took my regulator apart today. Is the spring supposed to hold the rotating thing shut entirely? Mine is half open? It wasn't dirty at all either so maybe its the AAC instead....

I put it all back together and now the idle is high :D its idling at around 1500. Before it was fine, I don't think i've changed anything. Its shit!

Anyone got any ideas?

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I played with the water temp correction(wrote down what setting it had first so I could set it back if need be) table and thats why it revs high when cold.I got it idleing at 1000rpm when stone cold but it was rough.

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Yeah I fixed the problem, I put in a stronger spring then factory. It idles up fine but now when warm it drops straight down no messing about. :(

It still hasn't fixed my start up issue though. When I start the car in the morning I have to give it some throttle or it sits around 200RPM and coughs and dies.

The guide is good but the pics don't works anymore.!

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