Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys i need to get my self a good exhaust setup so far ive looked at the hks ones and uas but bot really sure whitch one will give me the sound i want ,that would be a deppeish tone.

i a looking at going from the turbo to the tip.

and slo if you guys could recomend any places to get one from.

thanks lee

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76494-what-type-of-exhaust-fr-r33-gts-t-s2/
Share on other sites

I've got a Kakimoto catback too. Not sure what model but it's far from loud but the note is deep. My dump/front pipe is the Justjap mild steel one. Nothing flash but they do the job pretty well.

If I had that kind of money to spend I'd go for an Apexi N1 Catback.

get a 3" twin dump pipe from batmbl then goto any local exhaust shop get them to fit that and then get them to suppply 3" hiflow cat and 3" system. my local exhaust shop couldnt do the stock turbo flange so i got a batmbl twin dump instead. the dump is $400 and the rest should cost you about $800, so $1200 total

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • FWIW the depth of the groove in the rubber pad is not super essential, the blocks are rubber and squish a bit. If you are worried an angle grinder will make a deeper groove quick smart
    • I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
    • As well as being risky WRT tipping off anyway. Yeah, I wouldn't expect it to move. Just measure from the rear one to the front one on the good side, then measure that same length on the wrecked side. You will find the notches in the pinchweld, and the jacking pad. Just spray a spot of marker paint or something there.
    • but any other area than the bulge you are talking about will just cave in then? The front driver side is pretty bent so I don't know if that will work the way it is now. I can still kinda make out where that bulge is/was but it looks like the position of it also changed due to all the mistreatment? Hard to tell
×
×
  • Create New...