Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hmm....im convinced :D  

thanks SK.

Time to get me one of them tomei kits....heard they come with some electrical component to stop the hicas light from flashing ?? or is that another kit ?

The R32 Tomei kit comes with tricker box to stop the HICAS ECU turning on the light.;)

PS; I removed the bulb.

  • 3 years later...

haha man you must have used an an excavator to dig this thread up... ahh to be young and silly again... still silly, just not as young. for the record, i ended up getting a lock bar, and removing all the lines to the back, and making a 'well fabricated' u turn in place of the rear lines, the next idea was to replace the u turn pipe with an oil cooler of some sort, that didnt happen though and it was returned back to stock when i sold it.

didnt worry about the light as it was on constantly anyway due to my steering boss.

cheers

Linton

well what i am doing is..(i have a r32)....swapping the power steering pump with an rb30 one (have to change the pulley though on the front of it).....installing a lock bar...and ripping all the other lines valves computers and all the other stuff....i also just went and got a S14 power steering resovior cos its plastic and doesnt have all the outlets the hicas one does...this way is more expensive but thats the way i want it....nice and neat..

hey mate what pully you useing to make this work as this is also my plan on my r32 gts

how do you get to the bulb?

Mate you will have to pull some of the dash out to get to the cluster.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...-HO-t31550.html

Its pretty easy, once you get started it becomes a pretty clear path. Once you get to the cluster just look where on the dash the hicas light is and find that same spot on the back of it and you will see the bulb for it, twist is out and done!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...