Jump to content
SAU Community

Cheapest 10 Second car.


Baz
 Share

Recommended Posts

What would in your opinon be the cheapest way to build a 10 second car.

The only rules are:

- Cost of the 10 second car must substitute in the cost of the car and the mods.

- No major weight reduction mods

- No blown carburettored V8's

In my opinon I believe the GSR Lancer would be the best candidate for building a 10 second car as its a relatively cheap car to buy, 4wd and has an abundance of aftermarket kits to build on it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Old mazda 808 with a 13BT and old school T04, microtech, shortened 9inch, supra 5 speed and custom tailshaft with 8 inch slicks jammed under the rear end with some suspension work.

Total cost would be about 17k including car

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Old mazda 808 with a 13BT and old school T04, microtech, shortened 9inch, supra 5 speed and custom tailshaft with 8 inch slicks jammed under the rear end with some suspension work.

Total cost would be about 17k including car

I am up with that for sure the cheapest way to build 10sec package is just the way hes said, but put a T66 (with large exaust wheel) on instead of the T04

Mate is almost finished with his 13bt in 1300 wagon with the large port work and the T66 i cant wait till its run in and i get to have a go

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know you mentioned no blown v8s but the cheapest is definately a vb or vc commodore.

-THe car= $1000 in pretty good cond

- Motor= $4000 308 with a stroker at least 355

- Tranny=$3000 tricked up manualised auto

-Diff= $2500 9 inch with 4 link setup

- Wheels/tyres and miscalaneous= $2500

All up $13000

ANd if you want to go injected, add another 2g.

But rotary was my second choice its just the base cars are worth alot these days!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yea i knew a guy with a rx2 with a 13b in it it wooda been near 10s and it was cheap for him motor was 6k worked off its tits then shell was just about nothing nothing

then he got a r100 and put the motor in that

other guy i know has a V8 in a Ford Capri its a ex drag car does 11's had huges wheels on the back and motor coming out the hood

if he superchargers it it will do 10's

Go the rotor in a lite car :cheers:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The other cheapish one would be a 1GGTE with a big turbo, good tune, in something small. The stock bottom ends are unreal. To get a bit more go out of them use a supercharged bottom end, as they are 0.5 compression ratio higher, and can still cop massive amounts of abuse. Full motor would be about $700-1000ish now?

But yeah, carby V8, cheap as, or Rotor. 10sec car isnt that hard, but a reliable street driveable one is a bit more of a trick.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rotarties are the go........very responsive to mods, but also very high maintenance.

ATM i've got a Series 5 13BT RX7.......although its pretty much sold as I can't be stuffed with it....lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They should do. I have S14 (or something S chassis, anyway) driveshafts in my R32 (because my diff flanges have 3x2). They're the right length. When you go looking for R32/3/4 driveshafts (for turbos), they're all the same thing, so are the same length. So there really shouldn't be any reason why those cheapies from JJ won't also fit an R34. R32/3 NA should also be the same thing. The (3x the price) D-Max ones are uni-fit. They have 5x1 and 3x2 bolt holes and say they cover all the cars. So that would also suggest that they are all the same except for the flanges. And in that case, the flange goes both ways. I'd be buying the D-Max ones if I ever have to replace a shaft. Because that will open up diff options without needing to juggle shafts also. Juggling shafts is gay.
    • Yeah with the adaptors they do look like the photo above - just the fitment within the plenum itself and then further with the rail to the intake is questionable - we shall see tomorrow hopefully once I get some replies from Aeroflow, maybe those bosses are the missing piece....
    • Should be fine, if you have it sitting too far in, you end up just spraying the walls and have shit idle. You "can" run them like that, however I don't think it's a great idea (also depends on your plenum, might be good to just get the injector bosses first, mock it up and see if you need to get the bottom extension) Ideally your injectors, with the extension should look like this  (Not my photos, just Google)
    • Thanks for the replies guys, it's really appreciated.  It seems the kit was supposed to come with those injector bosses but hasn't. Unsure if they'll help as even with the adaptors to make them a 3/4 height injector they still sit too far out so mount the fuel rail?
    • Hello, I am looking to replace my two rear drive shafts in my R34 N/A Skyline but I'm finding conflicting information. Do S13/S14/S15 or R32 NA/ R33 NA fit? https://justjap.com/products/gsp-premium-rear-drive-shaft-l-h-nissan-silvia-s13-s14-s15-3x2-type?currency=AUD&srsltid=AfmBOoqY7EwDaYCUoUU3mxxZ_qrUXkVVHiV4MIN7ozoar6scjnEiekv- would this fit?
×
×
  • Create New...