Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone,

Im looking for a new car within the next 6 -12 months. ive had afew choices and the r33 and r34 look like a good choice because there a newer car with lots of potential. i belive the r34 GT-t would of course be a much better option but is it worth being in the extra debt for the car. or would the r33 be a good choice because cost less and alot of mods out there?

also does the r33 feel like a smooth ride or age has kicked in and things are wearing out on them?

thanks all.

Julz

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76708-really-worth-it/
Share on other sites

series 2 r33 and you should have some change for a few good mods as well. have seen a few series 2 go for just under 20k recently. the series 2 (mines a 1997 model) still feel great and handle awesome ever after 120,000 on the clock

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76708-really-worth-it/#findComment-1405079
Share on other sites

if you want value-for-money, the R32 is definately worth it, i think more-so than the R33 (but everyone's opinions differ obviously)

i think having a debt for a car is stupid - especially if you don't have to

my advice:

take what money you have and buy the cheapest model skyline that you can afford without a loan (or with a small loan from a non-bank (eg parents))

Warren.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76708-really-worth-it/#findComment-1405159
Share on other sites

without a loan (or with a small loan from a non-bank (eg parents))

My parents would never ever condone or endorse the purchase of a Skyline... the only reason I have one now is because it's been a long hard period of time since I've come out of school!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76708-really-worth-it/#findComment-1405165
Share on other sites

Depends what you are looking for in a car. Whether you want brute power and killing looks from a cheapish car, where you can spend the extra money turning into a real tough car go for the R32 GTS-T. Or go one step further and get the R32 GTR for a real race bred car. Series 1 R33's are probably a thing to stay away from. Go for a R33 S2 if you want a tidy car with a nice interior or go one step further if you want R34 which I believe beats the R33 in all aspects. Thats just my opinon.

R32 GTS-T would be my thing to go for, however I'm exceptionally biased in my opinon. However you would be happy with one. If you were looking in the area of an R34 definately consider the GTR.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76708-really-worth-it/#findComment-1405190
Share on other sites

yeah i do want power and killer looks but i also want a smooth ride, wouldnt the r32 be abit old and rattley? at the moment im drivin 92 model nxr and it has some wear and tear and rattle here and there. that i dont want next car! r34 was considered because its new but r33 is cheaper and r32 even more so. but yea.. wouldnt the r32 be abit old now?

oh yeah, whats the differnece between the series? or is that the type M?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76708-really-worth-it/#findComment-1405248
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...