Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, ive got these really daggy looking wipers (ones with the rubber covers) on my S1 33, the covers are all weather damaged & ripped and the wipers themselves smear the windows really bad when it rains , whats the best way to replace these? can the part be sourced through nissan? anyone know parts numbers?

Cheers,

Sam

WIPERS.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76774-wiper-replacement/
Share on other sites

hey, i'm new to skylineaustralia. this is my first time answering a question, however, i'll try my best. Why don't you just go buy some new windscreen wipers? Does it have to be Original Nissan? Just asking thats all. I would replace them asap due to your safety..

Why don't you just get new windscreen wipers?  Does it have to be original wipers from Nissan?  Just asking..

The wiper blades themselves have this weird hook and clip system on them, ive had a look at a few non-geniune ones and none of them would be compatible. It would make things easier if i could do it that way, but it doesnt look like it'll happen. :thumbsup:

I have WRX wipers on my R32.

Its a newer design that has two long thin metal blades holding the rubber in place rather then the little metal clip on the ends.

The result is no flop when the wipers change direction and a clean wipe.

So WRX wipers clip in place of the nissan ones with no probs? where abouts did you get the WRX ones and at what price?

Cheers,

Sam

For the weathering damage to the cover. Sand it back to get it a rough finish and cover the entire wiper arm with a couple of layers of black engine enamel. As for the wiper blades the R32 ones at least are just the same as every other modern wiper blade. I used Ford ones which are easily attainable from almost every car parts retailer. Don't be stupid by going out and buying new wiper arms when you can refresh the old one and make it look new again.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The 1000ccs are side feeds but they're not currently installed, had my old factory ones in for leak testing purposes, only decided on them because front facing plenums and good top feed rail kits are out of my budget at the moment, are they really that problematic? Had a set of yellow jackets that lasted me 5 years, no real issues, only replaced them chasing this misfire issue that ended up not being ignition related 😄  
    • Are those 1000cc side feeds? If so, that's part of your problem. I have 1480cc and they idle at stoich on 98RON, and all the way to E85. Also your coil packs.....
    • Update for the sake of closure   Ended up getting the intercooler piping all sorted, new plugs and yellow jacket coils, and she was idling mint until it warmed up while I was bleeding the cooling system. Found the misfire to be localised to cyl 3 by unplugging coilpacks, ran a compression test, that checked out, then decided to get a mate to check if that spark plug was firing out of the motor. Upon cranking it over, with the injectors disconnected, the car actually fired and ran on a couple cylinders and heaps of fuel came out the top of cyl 3 I'd say that injector's either spraying incorrectly or spraying far too much, which is fine as I'm planning on replacing them anyway I'm planning on making about 250kW on flex fuel, and have a set of 1000cc injectors from ozautosport, obviously overkill but I'm planning on building the motor and running more boost further down the line, do you reckon they'd be too big for a smooth idle on 98? Thanks for the replies gents, much appreciated
    • I'm confused. You said you want to "remove the clear coat from most panels" but it sounds like you are actually doing a full respray? Few random things to add -  If you chase the blistered paint with 120 grit, I can almost guarantee you'll chase it down to bare metal (that's fine). But if you paint the car from here, you'll have nice little indents where ever the blistered paint was. The new paint won't magically level out the low areas, you need to fill them. Which leads me to the main point I wanted to add, make sure the whole car is flat before you paint it. All those areas with blistered paint you sanded out, make sure to fill them and triple check they are flat with a block guide coat. I'd also check the whole car is flat with a large block and guide coat but yeah up to you if you want to go that far.   
×
×
  • Create New...